Towncivilian

Yep, I've read that before. Not sure I want to fab up a custom bar. Would Yakima Mighty Mounts (horizontal, vertical, or universal) work?

I'm trying to mount a pair of Hella 500FF lights on my stock roof rack. Is there a way to mount them without drilling into the crossbar, maybe some sort of bracket that goes around the rail?

Let us know which line is which! I'm wanting to install an in-line filter soon and need to know which side is the return line (and what size the hose is). It's all hard line up until the transmission cooler where there's a small length of rubber hose, so I'll need to install it there and secure it somehow.

Why? There's no long term detriment to switching back and forth (except of course you get random mixes of dino/synth oil left over in the engine for a while).

Drained and refilled radiator and overflow reservoir yesterday, other than a bunch of sediment that was in the reservoir everything looks good.

Does the part that's leaking look like this: If so, your oil cooler is leaking. It's probably an O-ring that's busted. You should replace both while you're at it, they're cheap. Read this thread over at NICOclub for more information.

Why did you purchase such high color temperature bulbs? I personally would not go higher than 4000k for best light output. I also think that not having projector housings will cause a significant amount of light to scatter and glare, annoying oncoming drivers.

Anybody know the sizes of the transmission and power steering return hoses off the top of their head? I'm going to install Magnefine filters on both. The transmission filter, as far as I know, is just a screen and doesn't really provide filtration of smaller particles. I think a $16 filter (which has a bypass valve and a magnet to catch those fuzzies) to be replaced every 30k is a good investment to keep the transmission fluid significantly better filtered. And the power steering fluid isn't filtered whatsoever! I think a Magnefine filter for the PSF is a lifetime filter, or some lengthy replacement interval like 100k.

Ugh I only have like $120something. Guess I'll pass unless you'd take a lowball offer, but I'm sure someone else will snatch it up.

How much would shipping be to 34990? And is the bottom bar bent inward?

I heard the Fram Extended Guard were significantly better filters than their el-cheapo orange cans of death. You can see one cut open here. Currently I'm running SuperTech 5W-30 with a bottle of Auto-RX which I hope would stop my slow rear main seal leak. After the rinse phase I'll probably switch to Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 5W-30 or maybe try 10W-30 if the oil leak is still there. Also, Nissan gave me a "shorty" filter instead of the longer one spec'd for the PF. I didn't know the longer one existed until after I installed the damn filter. I'll make sure to get the longer one next time I buy an OEM filter. I've got a Purolator PureONE PL14160 sitting for the next oil change.

Why do you use restore? That stuff really should only be used on a high-mileage beater by someone who's trying to get some compression back (I believe it fills the holes in scored cylinder walls with powdered soft metal). I don't think it has any cleaning properties.

Cause they have no power valves!

I had to do this too. Worked fine.

Mine has nothing. I usually forget there's anything there, but I should probably throw something I'll rarely use (but must have nonetheless) down there to clear up a bit of trunk room. I don't even have any jumper cables... gotta get some nice thick ones from Wal-Mart sometime.

MY1PATH in this thread suggests even lower torque spec for the pan bolts - between 5.1 and 6.5 ft lbs. I have a 2WD and I have the same hard line running at the front of the transmission pan. I had forgotten to reinstall the brackets providing support for it, but it's supported on either side of the pan and I see no issue with not correcting the issue (which would require another pan drop, I think) as it seems quite sturdy. Also, the two pan bolts that screw into those brackets are slightly longer than the rest, and Nissan just gave me 18 self-sealing pan bolts of all the same lengths. Though I'm not sure that hard line is what you're referring to, but it's something to note regardless. And yeah, definitely clean the MAF and throttle body! I had forgotten about those two. An easy time to do it would be when putting threadlocker on the power valve screws as you'll likely have the intake tube removed, providing easy access to the throttle body. You will probably require a tamper-resistant T20 Torx bit to remove the MAF sensor. Regarding the power valve screws, there's a lengthy discussion here and an excellent pictorial how-to here. Feel free to ask questions about the process, we'll be glad to help! You can also lubricate your locks and hinges per FSM page MA-30 using some NLGI No. 2 Lithium soap base grease. Make sure to remove any old grease with some WD-40 or other degreaser first.

I got this horn/PA system as a Christmas gift, and finally got around to installing it with a buddy earlier today. Installation was quite easy. I used a powered wire from the factory CD changer harness (which I'll never use again), and grounded with a ring terminal screwed onto the back of my head unit. I mounted the speaker behind the driver's side fusebox, and the stock wiring was long enough to run under the weather stripping into the cabin. Everything was done using crimp-on quick disconnects (and a bit of soldering for the ground ring connector) and 16 gauge wire, works perfectly. It's pretty loud even with the hood closed, but the PA system is mediocre, probably due to the el-cheapo included microphone. It's quite amusing to start blasting ice cream tunes at a busy intersection, or cruising through a parking lot - people do double takes! I'll try to record a video and take a few pictures of the installation for ya'll soon.

You should get new self-sealing pan bolts (there are 18), the FSM suggests to. You'd probably be fine if you just clean off the old bolts and reuse them; the bolts should not leak as the gasket surrounds them anyway, but new bolts are cheap and shiny insurance. If nothing else, you should do a drain and refill a few times to change out most of the fluid; I believe the filter is just a screen, and if it was replaced at 60k I wouldn't bother dropping the pan again. I don't know about your 4x4 issue, I drive a 2WD and can't help there. Your vibrations may be a bunch of things... I'm not the expert on that stuff though, let someone else chime in. You certainly can change the interior lights. As for other maintenance, have you put threadlocker on your power valve screws? How about in-cabin air filter (if equipped), and fuel filter? Greased propeller shaft?

Today I found the key to my tow hitch receiver's lock. I removed the receiver, sanded it down and spray painted primer and jet black enamel paint on it since there was some rust. I didn't let it dry enough between coats which led to sticky spots, resulting in some paper stuck to the paint. Patience is a virtue, guess I don't have it.

Today I bought a new door from a white 2000 R50 to replace my dented one. Only $49.95 minus glass hatch (I'll just reuse mine). $78 for paint, $20 for a can of primer, and a lot of sandpaper will result in a nice matched door. Now I just need to see whether Nissan will transplant the internals, cause wiring and all the trim pieces will be a hell of a DIY job... I also did a drain and refill of my ATF. 3 quarts of Valvoline Maxlife ATF and about 400mL of a leftover Genuine Nissan Matic-D ATF later, no more burnt-smelling fluid and smoother shifts!

Clogged fuel filter?

I greased my propeller shaft (aka drive shaft). 4 pumps of SuperTech moly lithium grease.

Oh, I have that thing then, I just wasn't sure what it looked like. Thanks for the pic!

Would this mod have any merit on an R50?