Towncivilian

Huh, didn't know I needed that. I'll have to see whether I am using such an adapter next time I rip apart the dash. But then again, I don't listen to the radio much...

Fixed all the tiny rust spots I could find. Hooray Florida, nothing gigantic. Also pried off my old rusty towing ball (I can't find the key for the receiver's lock ) to replace after I either find the key or somehow remove the lock on the receiver. Also cleaned some dirt/dust out of the engine bay with compressed air and a wet rag. Gonna try to call 1-800-NISSAN1 tomorrow to ask about seat belts barely or not at all retracting without being manually fed back, since my local dealer said "nope gotta try cleaning for $90 first".

Huh, I'm in Florida and never had my R50 go above half mast on the temp gauge *ever*, even middle of summer with A/C on sitting in traffic. Dunno when coolant was last changed (but I plan to soon), and my cooling fan is operating properly (just spun it a bit earlier today, seemed fine).

Just two codes, two times: Today: P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire P1320: Ignition Signal Problem Fix: Plug ignition coil 4 in all the way On for about 2-3 years until summer 2010: P1140: Crankshaft position sensor (Bank 1) P1145: Crankshaft position sensor (Bank 2) Fix: Replace both sensors with new sensors bought from Amazon for about $60 each

New spark plugs @ 120,997 miles. No idea if they were changed before, but the old ones looked serviceable and would prolly last another 50k miles. Oh well! Threadlocker on power valve screws, engine coolant, rear differential fluid, and some small rust spots left to do...

Guess I'm lucky I don't have a retractable antenna. Sounds like an annoyance, and I very rarely use radio anyway. I also thought it was a defroster before finding that page in the manual

k9sar wired a cut-off switch to do this very thing.

You can try the meter/gauge and odo trip meter operation check as described on page EL-86 of your FSM. Maybe check that the flexible print circuit is not loose (see the next page, EL-87), too.

2001.5 FSM says it's an antenna, too: I remember reading somewhere that the fender mounted antenna is only for AM band, but I'm uncertain about that. Oh, on page EL-188 it says this about troubleshooting radio:

This should help, as well as page EL-121 of the FSM.

Does this topic apply to R50?

How about theft prevention? What's stopping some prick from simply unscrewing a couple bolts and running off with your lights? I know the roof rack crossbars are held on by some Torx bits, but what mounting hardware is included (if any?) with a typical pair of lights?

Here's a relatively terrible photo of this if anybody's wondering how this looks and doesn't want to expend the effort to check for themselves: It's pretty comfortable, but I'm a short and small guy so YMMV.

Damn those Florida drivers, eh? Sucks about the damage, but it doesn't look too bad thankfully! Could've been worse.

Alright, I'll call Nissan tomorrow I think and see what they say first.

I personally think the transmission dipstick is rather difficult to read. I would just add 1/4th of a quart until you reach your desired reading. It's a relatively small amount, and while it may take a while you will most likely not overfill your transmission this way. When I dropped my transmission pan on my R50 a couple weeks back I drained about 5.5 qt; 5qt in a bucket from the drain plug and then the pan itself after dropping, then it seemed to be low half a quart presumably lost to dripping and changing out the filter.

I could record a video if you would like to see my specific issue. But I think I'll still try cleaning it first; if that doesn't work, then I think they have to take it as a warranty claim, but who knows, they might say something about the possibility of me not doing the procedure properly or something and try to deny me.

Excellent, thanks. I'll buy one at the local dealership and report back with price and results; I've got to head up there anyway to return some ungodly expensive gear oil ($13.95/qt... no idea why the hell I bought fluids at Nissan!) and get something better and significantly cheaper.

Sounds good to me. What's the part number for the kit, if you wouldn't mind looking it up? Not sure if Courtesy Parts would have it listed. I guess I could check Nissan FAST, but I'm not sure how to use that too well, the interface is something straight out of 1993.

So what do you suggest I do? Do I even need that kit specified in the TSB to clean the D-ring? How would I go about cleaning the belt or other related mechanisms?

I went down to my local dealership and the service advisor said that my issue of seatbelts not retracting by themselves (i.e. they generally need to be fed in by hand) is not covered under warranty and a cleaning must be done first, which he quoted around $90 to do; I asked if I could buy the necessary tools (IIRC this is the Teflon or whatever material stickers that go in the eye loop, whatever is outlined in this TSB PDF posted earlier) and perform it myself, but he said I could trigger an airbag light if done improperly. He also said that if the seatbelts did not retract at all, that'd be covered under warranty, but since they still retract when fed in manually it's not covered (unless a cleaning job fails, presumably). Is that bullcrap, or is he right?

I would have done this, but since the Radio Shack relays did not fit my 2001.5 R50 I had to modify my stock relays (though not irreversibly!) to achieve the fog light mod.

This is how I wired the fog light switch to stay on with the brights. Essentially ground the switch permanently on some screw in the steering column. A few posts above that you can read how I did the fog light relay mod.

If fuses and wiring checks out OK, then you may need to disassemble the clock and look for potential bad solder joints and resolder them. I remember some forum post either here or on NICOclub that one specific resistor had a bad solder job for several members, so that may be your issue. Either that or hit up a junkyard.