Towncivilian

I also had this issue, but only immediately after cleaning my engine bay. I chalked this up to some overspray of Pledge getting where it shouldn't have. I no longer had this issue after a few days. I got my battery tested at Nissan for free and it checked out. I was going to suggest cleaning the battery terminals, but you've already done so. Perhaps try cleaning the other end of them. How old is your fuel filter?

Yeah. The service adviser thought I had a 3.3L so he quoted $560, but then he realized his mistake after I dropped off the PF and called back, told me it'd be $2000 (18.5 hrs of labor he quoted, IIRC) but could offer a 10% discount so it'd come out to be $1800. I think that's too steep for a small leak. If it gets worse then I'll have to replace it of course.

Yeah, true. What exactly makes seals fail, anyway?

Alright, makes sense. I'm just wondering why my RMS went bad twice now, especially the first time with such low mileage!

I got a copy of my Pathfinder's service history from the local dealer, and it turns out that the rear main seal was replaced at 1720 miles! Why did my RMS go bad again?!? I don't know exactly when the leak started since I've only been driving and maintaining this Pathfinder since 109k and I'm currently at 126k. I also found a quote for $800 (parts & labor) to replace the RMS back in 2007. Why did the price suddenly jump to $1800?

Nissan has a TSB for cleaning the trans cooler. Do that and maybe install an in-line filter before the cooler inlet line to prevent it from becoming clogged, keep on top of drain & fills and I think the stock cooler would be fine to use with an auxiliary trans cooler in line with it.

Dirty brake fluid can be a possible culprit for an intermittent ABS light I'd imagine. Check your brake fluid level. When was the last time the fluid was flushed? Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water) and this can lead to corrosion and a lowered boiling point of the brake fluid.

The Magnefine I bought has 3/8" fittings or whatever they are. I confirmed this with an email to the company before I bought the filter; both the trans and P/S return lines are 3/8" hose. I don't know about barbs, sorry.

Why do you guys need washer pumps so much? Mine are still original and working fine after 10 years.

Applied 303 Aerospace Protectant to all of the door weatherstripping. Hope it stops the front passenger door from sticking and restores some pliability to the rubber. Also applied some to the various rubber/vinyl/plastic surfaces in the interior, really made them look new again. I still need to actually wash the car, wipe down all the windows inside and out, vacuum, clean the steering wheel and door panels... nothing ever seems to stay clean! I also tried applying some of the protectant to the window moldings, but it didn't help much it looks like... they still look nasty.

I must be blind, I don't see where the OP said he checked the power valve screws.

Stop using Lucas oil stabilizer, it's just 140wt gear oil that does nothing but thicken your oil. Make sure your PCV valve and hose is not clogged. Take off the upper intake manifold and verify that all of the power valve screws are tight and none are missing; apply red threadlocker before buttoning it up. Read here for more info.

My driver window was jumpy and shuddering so I removed the door panel and sprayed some white lithium grease on the regulator and the problem is solved. Next time I need to do that I'll use some tougher grease (maybe wheel bearing grease) since it'll probably last longer. I contemplated lubricating the regulator for the other windows, but I'll do that only if I happen to have the door panel off or if they seize up. I didn't seem to have luck with the silicone spray, but maybe I was doing it wrong. The lube on the regulator seemed to have hastened my driver window, though. My driver door's vapor seal is messed up and torn, maybe I should buy a new one for $14 at Nissan... but then again, what's the point of the vapor seal?

You can get one of these from Nissan. Looks like this: It's for an R50, but it should look fine on a WD21.

Hit 125k miles. I've only been driving this Pathfinder for 16k miles now.

Definitely try using some PB Blaster or Kroil or something to help loosen up the plug before doing anything to it. A large breaker bar with maybe some tape wrapped around the head helps too, I've read. Applying heat is another option. I ran into the plug issue with my rear diff, eventually the fill plug started to deform. I bought new drain & fill plugs and had Nissan do the job for $25 (I supplied new OEM plugs and my own fluid - ultimately it costed probably around $75). There seems to be some sort of tape in the threads of the fill plug now, so hopefully it'll be easier for me to remove at 150k when I do another drain & fill.

My dad has a blue '07 FJ (2WD) and I hate driving it. Can't see anything that's not right ahead of you, as mentioned above. I think it gets the same mileage as my R50 (16-17mpg), but I have never driven it for any extended period of time nor offroad so my anecdote is mostly useless.

I didn't even know anybody offered our paint codes in spray form, but I have an unused 1/2 fl. oz of CR0 touch up paint if you'd like it for a couple bucks + shipping.

Drove like 150 miles today, mostly highway... noticed death wobble a couple times on the highway at like 75 mph. It's not constant or always present, but damn was it pretty scary. I need a new suspension all around.

I removed my driver door panel and sprayed some white lithium grease on the window regulator and tracks to stop it from shuddering and jumping when going down. Seems to have worked, hope it lasts for a while before I need to do it again. I should probably do it periodically for all the windows to ensure they keep working smoothly. Still haven't gotten around to Bondo'ing the dent but I'll get around to it.

Removed my driver door panel and sprayed some white lithium grease on the window regulator and tracks to stop it from shuddering and jumping when going down. Seems to have worked, hope it lasts for a while before I need to do it again. I should probably do it periodically for all the windows to ensure they keep working smoothly.

Just try going in, worst thing that'll happen is they'll kick you out. No big deal, when you're 18 just come back and show them your ID

Huh, do they actually check your age? I'm pretty sure I went to the junkyard when I was 17 and one of my friends was 17 at the time, too.

Here are some terrible photos of how I routed my hoses: The monstrosity of the Magnefine in-line filter prevents me from routing the hoses in a way that I can use the stock undercover. Looks like I'll be rolling without it from now on. You can see in the first pic that the cooler outlet seems to still have some fluid on it, I'm not certain if that's just residue or if it's a really slow and small leak. I'll wipe the area with brake cleaner and see if it reappears. I'll also need to verify my trans fluid level, as I definitely lost some... I'm wondering why the dipstick still showed the correct level.

FSM: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1999_Pathfinder/ See EL-185. Relays and fuses can be found at your local junkyard.