Towncivilian

I found a splitter that allows use of a CB radio antenna for both AM/FM and CB here, and doing it the other way around (AM/FM radio for CB) is a bad idea according to that page because the radio antenna is designed only for receiving signals and not transmitting, and using an adapter is a ghetto fix and obviously performance would be poor. Any way to modify the stock radio mount to fit a CB antenna?

Anybody know a good method of mounting an antenna on the back of the vehicle somewhere? I don't think drilling a hole through the plastic bumper cover would be very sturdy. Do I have any other options? I'd prefer not to mount one on the roof or on a hood channel mount or something. What about replacing the stock radio antenna with a CB antenna somehow, is that possible?

I also feel such a "kick" sometimes between 1 -> 2 shifting; it's noticeable, not awfully forceful, I believe it's normal. You can try draining & filling the transmission fluid again, since one exchange via the drain plug only changes about 1/3rd of the fluid.

You shouldn't have any problem running fuel injector cleaner. I would suggest running something that has poly-ether amines (PEA) instead of STP which is mostly kerosene. PEA was developed by Chevron & BMW and leaves no deposits of its own after cleaning. Some examples are Chevron Techron and Gumout Regane. I don't know if these are available in Qatar, but if they are they are more effective than STP fuel injector cleaner.

31728-41X03 Strainer 31526-41X07 O-ring It's actually just a "strainer" and doesn't have a lot of filtering capability as I've said before in this thread, but if you have the pan down may as well replace it. Be sure to get the new O-ring I listed too. You will also need a new gasket (31397-41X05). Technically you're also supposed to replace the 18 self-sealing pan bolts (31377-41X06), but that's probably not required as long as you clean them off and the gasket seals properly. An aftermarket kit is cheaper, but if you want to stick with OEM parts I believe those are the correct part numbers. I got the info from this thread - I don't know what the last 3 gaskets are for (transfer case or something? )

Yea, I doubt it would stop it. I was just hoping to slow it down, but it appears it isn't helping. I still really like this M1 HM oil though, it's the smoothest oil I've ever run... can't tell the engine is on at idle (with A/C off, of course). I'm sure it's doing its fair share of cleaning things out a bit, too. It'd take probably two and a half hours to replace the PCV valve... since the top 3 gaskets are pretty new I could likely get by with replacing just the lower intake manifold gasket, or maybe just replace em all again since they're pretty cheap. But seriously Nissan, worst positioning ever.

I haven't spoken to any other shops yet... I should just take a weekday to go around asking some of the trans shops around here what they'd charge. It seems the leak is getting worse judging from the oil puddle after two days of sitting, and this is with Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 in for close to 2000 miles now. Should I wait some more to see if the HM oil will help? I was planning on running this M1 oil for 5 to 6k (I know the VQ engines are hard on oil) and running the same oil again. I know a nonfunctional PCV valve could have caused an RMS leak, but to get to the PCV valve I'd need to remove the upper and lower intake manifolds. Why couldn't Nissan put it in a more convenient place? Although, it's not exactly a difficult job to replace it, and at nearly 130k miles who knows if the valve is still working... Thoughts? Wait a while? Should I change the PCV valve either way?

Nissan Matic C? I don't think that ever existed. 2002 R50s were spec'd for Matic D. I run Valvoline Maxlife in my trans without issue. Change your fuel filter. It should help with the lack of power. Use an OEM one. Here's a post of mine with some more suggestions: Welcome to NPORA!

Check here. I don't think AutoZone sells ODB1 scan tools, and most (if not all) don't have a tool to scan ODB1 systems.

Isopropyl alcohol and some Q-tips will work well, just ensure it's dry before reassembling.

I wouldn't run a harsh solvent such as Seafoam in the crankcase because there's always a risk that it could break off a large chunk of deposits and clog the oil pickup screen or some oil passage, leading to very bad things. In the gas or maybe through a vacuum line it'd probably be fine, though. IMO the only thing that should go in the crankcase, is engine oil. Maybe the OP should do a bunch of low miles oil changes with the cheapest oil & filter he can find instead, something like SuperTech oil + Fram filter. Normally I wouldn't recommend Fram at all due to their poor construction and very small amounts of filtering media - I mean they're not awful filters, but for their price you can do much better. See one cut open here, and compare to a Purolator PL14610 I cut open, or even a Nissan "shorty" OEM. Their XtendedGuard line of filters is very good though - metal end caps, synthetic filtering media... those are actually worth every penny and can make 10-12k miles easy. But I digress at this point.

Do they restrict airflow at all? They seem very thick.

I think I'm better equipped with sway bars and highway tires... but either way, it's probably a good idea for neither of us to be going over 100 mph unless we want copious amounts of fines and tickets. It's nice to know that an eleven year old vehicle can still get "up to speed" easily and pretty smoothly.

I just went 105mph on the highway tonight. Everything went smoothly til 105 then it just cut out, revs dropped. I let off the gas at that point since the exit was only a mile away from the on-ramp...

Vacuumed, and cleaned the steering wheel and other parts of the interior with 1:4 ratio Woolite and hot water. Still got a bit more of the interior to clean up (door panels etc). My crappy steam cleaner wasn't very effective on the floor mats, maybe I'll just have them dry cleaned.

I'd suggest going for 75w-90 since it's synthetic.

Maybe you have worn spots in the starter's brushes and it takes a couple turns of it to catch, or a dirty commutator or something.

Great! I'd still check your radio wiring for frayed wiring somewhere just in case at some point so it wouldn't happen again.

Thanks for those pictures, I routed them next to the battery and the undercover now fits perfectly, but I'll wait a few days before putting it back up to ensure there are no leaks. I used plenty of zipties to ensure that the hoses don't make contact with the radiator fan or pulleys.

Any corrosion around the battery terminals? Terminals nice and tight (but not overtightened to the point where they damage the battery's terminals?)

Rerouted transmission cooler hoses so I can finally put the damn stock undercover backup, added a quart of transmission fluid, and yesterday I washed my car. I gotta vacuum, clean the headliner, seats, steering wheel, center console, steam clean the carpets, and clean the windows soon... and there's still rust on my tailgate.

The bad u-joint could be at the driveshaft, maybe. Maybe it just needs some grease. Difficult to say without being there. Your best bet would be to check the fluid level & condition via the dipstick first. 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on level surface and apply parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull transmission dipstick with engine idling, wipe clean, reinsert completely, pull again, and read level. It must be within the notched areas labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel.

I agree with silverton. Instead of taking it to a shop you could do a cooler line flush - disconnect the line leading to the transmission cooler in the radiator, secure it in a collection pan, start the engine, wait for two quarts to drain, stop, fill two quarts through the dipstick, and repeat until you have exchanged the entire capacity of the fluid. A pan drop to change the filter and clean out the pan and magnet of ferrous material is advisable as well. I would think that many transmission problems begin to manifest themselves with the reverse gear as the line pressure required is highest in reverse. It could be something other than the transmission, too - a bad U-joint somewhere, perhaps.

I had an LED bulb in my glove box lamp, and one of the leads broke in the socket and caused a short. I heard and saw sparking in the socket after I removed the LED since it was flickering, and heard the fuse blow with a faint click shortly afterwards. Luckily, there was a spare 10A fuse behind the coin drawer. I instantly knew it was the TAIL fuse for some reason, since I read that interior lighting was tied to that fuse before and it stuck in my mind. I hope that's your only problem! If it blows again, you obviously have a fault somewhere; I'd start by checking your radio wiring, since if you left the illumination wire unconnected on the vehicle's harness, it could be shorting against the DIN brackets or something. Check for dead bulbs next if there's no issue there I guess.

The fuse labelled "TAIL" in the engine bay fuse box, behind the battery. It controls interior lighting, parking lights, and taillights (but not stop lights). It's a red 10A fuse.