Towncivilian

Well, I obviously lack common sense.

I think you need to remove the drive belt, then the fan shroud, unbolt the fan, then just unbolt the fan clutch: See LC-9 for torque specs. Use a 1/4" drive torque wrench and use inch pounds instead of foot pounds that the manual says (use Google to convert; i.e. "4.3 foot pounds = ? inch pounds" will tell you). The bolts are probably all 10mm. Download a copy of the factory service manual: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ There are a few aftermarket options for a fan clutch on RockAuto, or you can get an OEM one for $130.

Yeah, I'm talking about the FJ rear differential fluid. My father's FJ also has only seen pavement, so if it has the A-TRAC thing it'll probably never be needed, ha! You know the LSD in the FJ is electrical, not mechanical, right? It's controlled by the ABS. I'd suggest registering here if you haven't yet, there's a lot of good info and people there. Read my maintenance questions thread there if you want. We're kinda going off-topic though, PM me if you have other questions or want to chat about the FJs some more.

The factory fog light switch is on the light stalk. Check junkyards, maybe you'll luck out and find fog lamps or a stalk. I know of a junkyard in West Palm that has an online inventory, but they don't have any R50s right now. You can also get aftermarket fog lamps (I have an aftermarket driver's side lamp since mine got a hole in the glass - looks fine, fits just like OEM) for cheaper, and an OEM stalk (I wouldn't trust an aftermarket stalk) for around $68 - I'm pretty sure that's the correct one, but there are four variants. Aftermarket fog lamps are $45-50 each on RockAuto. I'd personally go with the TYC branded fogs. I don't know what brand my aftermarket fog is, but I have a TYC driver's side parking lamp assembly and it fits great and looks just like OEM. Changing the stalk is easy. All you need to do is remove the screws for the steering column cover and remove it, then it's two screws and a harness to remove the stalk. If you swap out the stalk, ground the fog lamp switch so you they stay on with the brights. My father has a 2007 FJ Cruiser 4x2, blue, with 34k miles. Fun car! What's the A-TRAC switch do? I think our FJ has it, but not sure since I almost never drive it. A little off-topic, but I hope you changed the rear diff fluid as some early models have had diff failures. I changed mine out recently and at 33k it looked absolutely horrible - I'm glad to have changed it out! I used Mobil 1 75W-90 which I got for about $30 for 4 quarts purchased online from Advanced Auto Parts with discount code. I didn't buy new washers for the fill/drain plugs, but there are no leaks so I'm fine. Washer part # is 12157-10010, torque spec is 36 ft/lbs for both plugs.

Oh, save and clean the magnets from used Magnefines and put them in the trans pan next time you do a pan drop. Those magnets are awesome, no need to throw them out! Ideally, one would do a pan drop & filter change, clean out the stock cooler, install the largest auxiliary transmission cooler they could find and a Magnefine and/or spin-on filter, and do a cooler line exchange using some quality synthetic ATF. Then simple drain & fills with the same fluid and filter changes every 30k, or less for spin-on filters? That can quickly get expensive of course, but that would be the ideal thing to do, IMO.

Magnefines have a bypass. If you install a Magnefine backwards, the valve doesn't function, and Magnefine says it can cause internal transmission damage. That's why there's an arrow on the exterior of the filter. See here under Will it clog? Nissan flushed my P/S system around 70 or 90k miles, so I'm pretty sure most of the crud is gone since I've kept the fluid fresh.

Every time the transmission shifts, there is some wear from friction. Not very significant, but it adds up over time/miles. A lot of it is ferrous material, which explains the donut magnet at the bottom of your transmission pan. A transmission generates roughly 75% of total wear in the first 5k miles or so due to break-in and crud left over from manufacturing, which is why it's good to remove the factory fill ATF pretty early. The strainer/filter in the trans pan is a rock catcher, probably doesn't filter anything lower than 80 microns, while a Magnefine is a rough equivalent of an oil filter and filters around the 20 micron range, in addition to whatever is caught by the magnet. More crud floating around in the trans fluid accelerates wear. Some dude ran a Magnefine in a '97 Caravan for 22k miles, see pictures here. Transmissions really need better filtering! A Magnefine is a really cost effective and simple method to achieve it. Hell, even the power steering system could benefit from a Magnefine (and one would probably be a lifetime filter), if you're so inclined and have the room, but that's a little extreme IMO. Siphon & fills of the fluid reservoir each oil change will keep the P/S pump happy for a very long time. And synthetic ATF is a better choice than PSF for sure.

Download the FSM here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1998_Pathfinder/

I don't think the fog light harnesses have blue plugs. I'll try to check, though.

The part # for Nissan's Transmission Cooler Cleaner is 999MP-AM006, $8.14 each (can?). I'm not sure if the parts department will order chemicals for you, though.

If you buy this cooler online with discount code VISA and pick-up in store, you can get it for about $60 after tax. Pretty good deal IMO. Then you'd just need the $22.50 Magnefine and maybe some extra transmission cooler hose. That's a pretty good setup for under $100 I think. I should have gotten that cooler! I failed to check AAP before ordering a puny 13,000 BTU one from Amazon for $54.

Yeah, check other doors. I drove around with 2 dead front door switches for around a year and was completely oblivious, somehow. As for the wipers, it might be the front wiper amplifier, which is a brown box mounted on the firewall in the engine bay. You could probably get one of these for cheap from a junkyard.

TSB: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=PKNSELHN RJSquirrel's description basically matches the TSB. I also suggest getting a Magnefine, it's about $22.50 shipped from here.

Apparently I miscounted somewhere during the transmission cooler line exchange I did a few weeks ago. I had to add another quart of ATF, but I checked the fluid level probably a dozen times when hot and it is within the notched area now. I also put some foam tape behind the license plate, it solved most of a very annoying rattling noise. Fixed the rust around the rear washer nozzle and used clear silicone to affix it as well.

A drain & fill will take about 4 quarts of ATF. Use a new crush washer (same as oil drain plug). Torque spec is 22 to 29 ft lbs.

The fuel filler tube was part of a recall, hope you didn't have to get that done yourself. As for the MAF sensor, I really hope you went with the $89 Maxima MAF instead of the $442 Pathfinder OEM part. Anyway, how's the transmission fluid look, is it red? Is the level correct (measure at operating temperature with the vehicle idling in Park after selecting every gear then returning to P)? Has the fluid been maintained frequently?

The airbag light is an LED in the instrument cluster. If you remove some sort of component of the airbag system, it'll just make it stay lit or blinking I'd imagine. Probably the only thing you can do is fix the system, or desolder the LED, which is not a good idea (due to inspections, resale problems, etc).

There are vehicles on the road with 300k+ on factory fill diff fluid, and/or decades old gear oil. While it's not the best practice, they're still somehow working. I had the factory fill in for 123k myself. I put in Valvoline 80W-90 conventional gear oil, and I'll probably change it at 150k and put some synthetic fluid in and run it at 50k change intervals.

Does this help? The K/S sensor wire is white, and there's apparently only one. I don't know what that joint connector is.

I'm pretty sure he uses extra virgin olive oil in his diffs.

I think some dude on eBay refurbishes the stock 6CD changers and corrects the inherent flaws so it won't break again (at least not in the same fashion). I dunno if he still offers his services, though.

The stock transmission cooler on WD21s is prone to clogging if the fluid has not been properly maintained. If there isn't an auxiliary transmission cooler already present, you should purchase the largest one you can afford and fit, and bypass the stock cooler. An in-line filter is also a good idea. What's the condition and level of the transmission fluid? 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on level surface and apply parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull transmission dipstick with engine idling, wipe clean, reinsert completely, and read level. It must be within the notched areas labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt. If it is brown/black, smells burnt, or metal flakes are visible, do several drain & fills, each within a few days of each other, or do a pan drop to change the in-pan screen and clean the pan of contaminants then a few drain & fills, or a cooler line exchange. As for the ABS light, I'm not sure. Is the brake fluid at the MAX line in the reservoir? I think dirty fluid can impact ABS operation, so maybe bleed your brakes if the fluid looks excessively dark. Congrats on the purchase, and welcome to NPORA! Download a copy of the factory service manual here for future use, it'll prove invaluable.

Yeah, they're aimed fine. The entire nozzle itself doesn't stay in the hole very well.

Hey, I washed my PF too! Also noticed this rust: Even after I fix this, the washer nozzle won't sit right and would be very loose... it didn't fit right when there was no rust, though. I tried two different nozzles, same thing. Oh well, it's a junkyard door anyway.

I know 01silvapathy broke his clock spring when he installed his SFD, read here and here.