Towncivilian

No first-hand experience, but I'd think it can smell pretty bad. The transfer case has no active cooling as far as I know, so I'd think it can get pretty damn hot. If it smells burnt, the fluid is oxidizing and should be changed for sure. Gear oil also has that disgusting sulfur smell as you've noticed, which doesn't help things.

Torque specs for what specifically? They're all over the exploded parts views. Look under the "MAJOR OVERHAUL" section of MT for torque specs, for example.

Yes, use a turkey baster or suction gun to siphon the fluid, then refill with the fluid of your choice (preferably some synthetic ATF). When I did this the first time, I siphoned the reservoir, started the engine, moved the wheel lock to lock a few times then stopped engine and repeated until out of ATF, to exchange the vast majority of the fluid. I siphon & fill the reservoir every oil change or every other oil change to keep things fresh. Or if you want to be very thorough, you can siphon the reservoir, disconnect the return line, extend the line if necessary to point it in a collection bucket, jack up the car, and have a helper turn the wheel with the engine off (otherwise the return line pressure is really high) as you fill the reservoir with fresh fluid. Once you see fresh fluid coming from the return line, stop and hook everything back up, top off the level, and you're good. Maybe add a Magnefine if you're crazy.

Is it shown here? If it isn't, I'm pretty sure you need to find another in a junkyard or buy a new speedometer cable.

There is a lengthy thread on NICO about it: http://forums.nicoclub.com/new-owner-03-pathfinder-w-vibration-at-40-to-60mph-t541488.html In the OP's case, the front driveshaft was the culprit. He replaced it with a used one from a junkyard PF.

Changed engine oil & power steering fluid. Out: Advance Auto Parts 5W-30 & Fram ExtraGuard PH7317 put in @ 128,072 (crap that AAMCO put in, in use for 1503 miles - the Fram was irritating me) In: Mobil 1 0W-40 & Mobil 1 Extended Performance M1-110 @ 129,575 miles PSF was replaced with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. I was gonna grease the driveshaft too but the zerk was pointing upwards.

This isn't the nav unit specifically, but a guide on accessing the stereo cluster area. click As far as I know, there shouldn't be any differences in removal for the nav unit.

The plumbing for the EGR valve might be clogged with carbon, you'll probably need to use a screwdriver or something to chip/pick at the carbon, it can sometimes be difficult to remove chemically - use some throttle body cleaner or carb cleaner though, it might help.

RockAuto doesn't seem to list any - the oil pan gaskets they list are just the two rubber pieces, and some come with a tube of RTV sealant. I guess follow the FSM's application procedure - see EM-14 - and use the correct RTV (this is the recommended aftermarket one).

No idea, my mom's Altima doesn't have the nav system. What I meant by wiring or components was additional antennas or wiring to the speed sensor or stuff like that - but some study of the wiring diagrams and system descriptions of the FSM should tell you this. Good luck with this, and if you end up doing it try to document it as best you can in case someone else wants to do this in the future.

To download a full copy of the FSM, go here http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/ and right click -> save as on each PDF and save it in a single folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate. There are also other versions of FSMs in that folder's parent directory: http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/ The R50_2001 is the 2001.5 FSM, not the 2001.0 MY FWIW.

You can find wiring diagrams for the 2007 Altima Bose unit here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Altima/2007/av.pdf And the 2002 Pathfinder audio wiring digram here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/2002_Pathfinder/el.pdf I guess as long as the unit actually fits in the dashboard and the speakers have the same impedences and/or the the amps are identical, it should work if you get the wiring correct. I have photos of the Bose speakers and amplifiers (front & rear) from my 2001.5 Bose system in this thread - no picture of the rear factory amp, but it's out of my vehicle and I can take pictures if required. AFAIK the Bose speakers are 2-ohms and the stock Bose head unit outputs a very low line level voltage to the amps (which is why you would need to use a line-level output converter with an aftermarket head unit if you wish to keep the stock Bose speakers). I don't know about the 2007 Altima's specs in detail, but my mother has one and I can try to see what the rear speakers impedance are by looking in the trunk at least. Also, the 2007 Altima has 8 speakers vs. a Pathfinder's 4, so that may be an issue too. I have no idea if the factory nav system in the Altima requires any extra wiring or components, though I didn't look at the wiring diagram at all so you'd have to find out for yourself.

I'm assuming a Purolator Gold is a Purolator PureONE filter. What did you read that made you change your mind about them? I think they're very well constructed, have plenty of filtering media, and can easily last 5 to 7k miles in a clean engine.

There are grease fittings on the driveshaft (well, at least the front driveshaft has one, according to the FSM) - see MA-22. You'll need a grease gun. Other stuff like ball joints may have grease fittings as well if they have been replaced with aftermarket parts. The M1 gear oil is cheaper than that with discount codes. AAP is easily my favorite parts store just because of the coupon codes. It helps that my local store is helpful and courteous as well. The 75W-140 is more expensive probably because it needs more/different viscosity improvers due to the greater range of viscosity and there's presumably less demand, but don't quote me on that one.

Bump for updated first post and some more exposure!

Redline MT-90 is $13.49/qt on Amazon with free shipping. I'd second running MT-90 in the trans and t-case and using Mobil 1 or other gear oil for the diffs to save some cash. Diffs are pretty damn bulletproof, they won't know the difference. My R50 went 123k on factory fill on the rear diff, no problems. And thanks, I do my best Don't forget to grease the driveshafts and anything else that may be applicable too. Any NGLI #2 lithium soap base grease will do as long as you grease regularly. I'd suggest Valvoline DuraBlend.

Actually, I think I remember reading that too... if true, wouldn't gear oil be a better choice due to the extreme pressure additives, etc? EDIT: I clarified a bit of wording in my first reply. Also, here's the FSM download link. Right click -> save as on all the files, store them in one folder, and use fwd.pdf to navigate.

Use a turkey baster or suction gun to exchange fluid in the power steering reservoir. Also do this once for the brake fluid reservoir before starting a brake bleed as this speeds up the process. A synthetic ATF will be excellent in the P/S system, especially in colder weather where it may groan and make noises with generic PSF or mineral ATF. Dispose of used coolant and brake fluid (each in their own container) at a quick lube shop, they should let you do it. These do not mix with used oil properly and must be disposed of separately. There is a pretty large thread about fluids, filters, grease, and change intervals here. The manual transmission TSB thread is here. Redline and Amsoil make excellent GL-4 fluids, I think a lot of people here run those fluids. If there's an Advance Auto Parts near you, I'd run Mobil 1 75W-90 in the diffs (and t-case if you decide to run gear oil) - it's a very good synthetic gear lube and has LSD additive. Order online and use discount codes, then pick-up in store. Use gear oil in the transfer case in manual trucks, ATF in auto trucks to prevent cross-contamination should a seal start to leak.

Check your power valve screws - if any are missing, there's your problem. Put red threadlocker on them, and maybe while you're down there replace the PCV valve. See this how-to. I think if that doesn't help I think you need to replace the passenger side valve cover. Read here.

Oh man, I hear you on that one... my rear main leaked once at 1720 miles then started leaking again somewhere around 120k miles, ~$1100 to R&R. My upper oil pan gasket was also leaking, that was $400. No oil burning though, so I'm happy.

Yeah, I would probably get as much as you can off the car (as long as it isn't obvious and doesn't trigger a CEL) if I were in your case, but that doesn't really leave a lot. Maybe even take the spare tire.

Take a pic of the replacement valve caps too!

Check in the later pages of this thread, people have been getting well over KBB values for their rusted PFs. Sorry to hear about the rust

Have your battery tested at any parts store (Advance Auto, AutoZone, hell even the dealership will do it).

Wiki says that for the US, a "third brake light" was mandatory on new light trucks and vans (which I assume what Pathfinders fall under) starting 1994, and on passenger cars since 1986. Don't know where you read 1996. Other than that, I have nothing to add, sorry.