Towncivilian

DOT4 is usable in all DOT3 brake systems and has a higher wet & dry boiling point. May as well use that.

I did not remember correctly. According to this anecdotal post, cruise control disengaged when a turn signal was hit due to leakage current somewhere in the circuit. I must have mixed up the issue with the stop lamp switch being faulty resulting in cruise not working with that explanation. I did check the FSM, but it didn't really mention failure modes of the stop lamp switch.

I agree. An electronic flasher is $13 at AAP, and slightly cheaper if ordered online with a discount code then picked up in store.

See this thread. Don't waste the money for an OEM filter, aftermarket ones (at least NAPA Gold & Wix) are identical in construction and quality I believe.

There is also a similar issue relating to replacing all of the brake bulbs with LEDs. The vehicle thinks all of the stop lamps are out due to the low current draw, so cruise control doesn't work and I think there was some other side effect. A fix is to replace one of the 9 LED bulbs in the center high mounted stop lamp with an incandescent bulb. I'm fairly sure this issue would occur on any older vehicle that does not use all LEDs in the brake lamps.

Or you can purchase an electronic flasher.

2001-2004 R50s are all VQ35DE. I think the missing link should fit any year R50, though.

I don't have a definitive answer for you. I haven't experienced any shift flare yet. It looks like SnowKat will be selling a revised TCM (at least that's what I infer from his description) when he parts out some of his QX4, so try to snatch that up if you decide to bite the bullet. Check the price of the solenoid assembly control on Courtesy Parts - the TSB should have a part number. EDIT: 31940-41X15, $296.10 - ouch I'm probably not susceptible to shift flare because Incident B doesn't apply to my VIN (too new), and Incident A requires low temps, which there are none of in Florida. Incident A also mentions simply sitting overnight can result in the flare, but as far as I know I haven't experienced shift flare. I'll keep an eye out from now on when the trans is cold, though.

Yes, a new TCM is expensive.

Follow these instructions to add the cabin air filter.

Check here, it lists all the TSBs and recall PDFs.

Automatic transmission fluid is not designed to handle the conditions of the engine, i.e. blow-by gases, moisture, fuel dilution, large amounts of dirt, significant oxidation... transmissions don't get dirty (at least not nearly as much as an engine), so why would they need large amounts of detergents? What is in ATF that is not in engine oil that would soften the carbon deposits as you claim? ATF would probably shear quickly in an engine, too, but that may depend on your choice of ATF. I think that the idea of using ATF in an engine was thought up at a time when engine oils contained less detergency than the average quart of ATF, I'd think in the 70s or 80s. But if you use ATF as a parts cleaner or something, I can see that working. But ATF in an engine? No thanks.

Forgot to add a virgin oil analysis of SuperTech 5W-30 API SN, which is bottled by either Warren Performance Products, or Exxon-Mobil, depending on your region. WPP ST can be determined by looking at the bottom of the bottle - it'll say WNE or WPP. If it's XOM bottled, the characteristic shape of the bottle will give it away. I digress, anyway. Here's the VOA: http://www.pqiamerica.com/SupertechApril2010.htm You can see that even this "generic, off-brand" engine oil has significantly more calcium and phosphorous than a quart of M1 ATF, and more antiwear components. The total base number of this oil is 7.6 vs. M1 ATF's 2.06. An oil's TBN refers to the amount of additive that neutralizes acids formed during the combustion process; more is generally better, but one must take into account the oil's TBN retention as well for determining how long you can run an oil (if you're into extended drains). TBN depletion is not linear, but anyway I'm really going off-topic here... if you want to learn more, read this article.

Transmission fluid doesn't have a large amount of detergents - the average quart of engine oil has more in terms of calcium, magnesium, and phosphorous. See this virgin oil analysis of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF: Mediocre quantities of phosphorous and calcium, which are detergent additives. Boron is primarily an anti-wear additive. I'd say leave the ATF for the transmission. ATF is also very thin and will dilute the additive package of the oil and lower the viscosity of the oil - the latter is not necessarily a bad thing during the winter months. The MSDS of 3M intake cleaner says that the throttle cleaner contains 1 to 5% of polyether amines, which was developed by Chevron and BMW to clean without leaving its own deposits behind which just end up attracting more residue from carbon and other detergents, which makes it a very effective cleaner. This chemical is used in Chevron Techron, Redline SI-1, and a few other fuel system cleaners, but I think the small amount of PEA in the throttle cleaner isn't enough to be overwhelmingly effective. However, in the OP's pictures, it seems to have cleaned the intake up quite well, probably due to the way it disperses/atomizes. The 3M fuel system cleaner MSDS says it contains 7 - 13% PEA.

eBay don't have it, RockAuto don't have it, AAP, Bennett's, NAPA, AutoZone, Dorman's site... none of them list it. A helpful and knowledgeable employee at AAP suggested to measure the pins with a micrometer, get the ones closest in size, and try using those and if necessary drill the bushings to accommodate the pin's different size. I'll probably go that route since I don't want to pay $50 each for new door hinge assemblies from the dealer.

Welcome! I'd avoid the dealer if I were you, since there is a recall for the driver's side front strut housing which you had repaired. If Nissan does an inspection and they deem it undriveable to their standards (it's been known to happen, even with it repaired), they can condemn your vehicle. See this PDF for details.

So why is there red, orange, pink, green, blue, H-OAT, silicated, non-silicated, Dexcool, blah blah blah... it gets confusing. I'd read this article. For simplicity's sake and to avoid headaches, I'd just go with Nissan coolant. A gallon jug is like $20, my R50 only needs two gallons 50/50 for the radiator, so total cost for rad drain & fill is like $22. Hell, you can switch to Nissan long-life blue coolant which claims 5 years/75k mi replacement interval (for non-factory fill) if you wanted (though if diluted with green it's 4yr/60k) according to TSB NTB09-040a. Be sure to use distilled water.

I put the stock undercover up after like 8 months of being off. I even used all of the bolts; some were missing before. I cleaned my steering wheel with Woolite and hot water, but a bunch of stuff flaked off around the top of the wheel. Some of it was already flaking off so I guess it was just a matter of time. Is getting the steering wheel re-wrapped a good option?

I had a similar experience, although it was in the rain. It was in the early morning and I was driving myself and my buddy to school. It had rained the previous night. I was making a right turn onto the main road at the foot of a bridge. I hit the gas too quickly and hydroplaned; my back end started sliding clockwise and I was about to hit a guard rail. I quickly turned the wheel to the left to the lock (and probably hit the gas a bit if I recall correctly), and this sent me toward oncoming traffic. I slammed the brakes and managed to stop about an inch inside the oncoming lane, narrowly missing a large pickup truck which didn't even seem to notice me. I reversed a bit, then merged with oncoming traffic and stopped at a gas station to calm down. No damage, and boy was I glad. This is the area in question. And come to think of it, what I just posted isn't overwhelmingly similar to what you did. D'oh. Oh well, it's an interesting story nonetheless... I'm glad that you made it out alright and with no damage!

I would reconsider after reading this article about Lucas.

If you have 4WD you need to overfill your trans: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621

Greased the driveshaft & bought an overhead console for it. I could use a couple parts for it if you guys could keep an eye out at the junkyards!

I get wholesale prices at my local dealership for being a frequent customer. The prices are often very close to Courtesy Parts' offerings. No reason why your local dealer can't do the same.

Anybody know where I can get new hinge hardware for a front driver door for a 2001 R50?

That thread is here on NPORA: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17104