Towncivilian

Wrong. Air filters pose almost no restriction as long as it is properly sized (i.e. fits in the airbox correctly). More info than you care for here. Hell, a clogged air filter doesn't even impact mileage anymore. Regarding oil filters, even a "restrictive" oil filter, as some claim, such as a Purolator PureONE with its 99.9% efficiency at 20 microns, flows very well. Once again, enough info to give you a headache here.

That feature is applicable to computers that have onboard Intel graphics implementations, and is not a Windows specific feature.

NAPA Gold (which is made by Wix), Purolator, Bosch, Fram XtendedGuard (these are tanks and can go 10k+ OCIs), ... maybe I'm forgetting one or two. Motorcraft FL822 fits on R50s but I don't if any model will fit WD21s. If you must run Fram for convenience sake, upgrade to the ToughGuard which has a silicone anti-drainback valve which might help. And if you must run an oil additive, run STP since that actually has some sort of useful additives (I believe ZDDP) and will still thicken the oil up by one grade (generally). Or just run one grade thicker engine oil. But I think if you run a decent filter and 5W-30 your dry start problem will either diminish greatly or go away. I don't have too much of a problem with Fram, just they're horrendous value for what you pay for them. They have lousy construction and lack filtering media compared to say, a Purolator Classic which is generally the same price or cheaper at parts stores. Motorcraft filters are manufactured by Purolator to Ford's specifications, so they are excellently built as well.

Why are you getting dry starts? Adding Lucas just thickens up the oil and dilutes its additive pack, perhaps it makes the residual oil film cling better to top-end components but it doesn't help it flow any faster when the engine is cold and the oil is thicker than it would be at operating temperature. In California it's basically a moot point, but if you were in a place with harsh winters I would suggest not to run Lucas. The oil filter has more of a part in eliminating dry starts than your choice of oil. The oil filter has an anti-drainback valve which is made from either nitrile or silicone. Nitrile can become hard and brittle after extended use and heat, and some filters' ADBVs do not seal too well in the first place. Which oil filter are you running?

Same thing on WD21s. The "second radiator" is the A/C condenser.

See NTB01-055a - 2001 PATHFINDER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 1-2 OR 2-3 SHIFT FLARE. See if the symptoms mentioned apply to you. I assume the fluid is red and smells fine since you just did a drain & fill. Ever did a pan drop? Are you checking the transmission fluid level properly? This is the correct process: 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. @1944SEV6: The OP most likely doesn't have an auxiliary oil-to-air cooler; only certain 1996-1998 models had those. The stock cooler is the tube at the bottom of the radiator as on WD21s.

The links don't work. Anybody who has a copy, reupload it? I'll make it into a single PDF for simplicity's sake.

When I replaced my post-cat O2 sensor for P0158, I used this Bosch direct-fit sensor from AAP. Bosch was the manufacturer of the stock sensor for my 2001.5, so it's probably yours too. Order that sensor online and use discount code VISA and pick-up in store to get it for only $50 before tax. You'll need a 7/8" or 22mm oxygen sensor socket, too.

My apologies, I misremembered. I will upload the entire TSB soon. I would replace the O2 sensor. If the code reappears, have your dealer reprogram the ECU - I think they'll do it for free.

ECU reprogramming is only necessary if there is a specific set of codes (which does not include P1167) *and* if the code reappears after O2 sensor replacement. It also might help to know what year you R50 is. The O2 sensor is the more likely culprit, and is a cheaper fix than changing out a cat.

Unless the fluid is black, I don't see why it would do any harm. I'd go ahead and do a pan drop and filter change, then maybe a couple drain & fills with a few weeks in between of driving to slowly exchange most of the fluid.

Here is a better version of NTB97-009a than what is currently on the first post. I can't get a cleaner copy of NTB97-009 but this one supersedes it anyway.

2001+ R50s use the VQ35DE engine, so there is no problem fitting 1996-2000 VG33 parts in your 1999.5.

Every time I read this thread title I remember this: "WE GOTTA REPLACE DA HOLE WINDSHIEL"

Here are some awful pictures of how I routed my hoses, if anyone wants them for reference: In the first picture, the hose on the right has the original short hose (from below the vehicle) leading to one end of the Magnefine which is tucked behind the bumper, then has a 4 foot hose leading to the return fitting below the vehicle. The hose on the left is from the stock cooler outlet to the auxiliary cooler. The other two pictures should hopefully make enough sense of how I routed the hoses otherwise.

I have ~130,400 on my 2001.5. I have no doubt I'll make it to at least 200k barring somehow totaling my PF. Although, my mom drove this PF for most of 110k miles before I got it, so I really haven't driven it that much.

I have 130k miles on a completely stock suspension and aside from some wobble on the highway at higher speeds (75+) and the need for an alignment I don't have any issues controlling the vehicle. I second checking the bushings.

Alright. Hopefully cleaning the stock cooler and a cooler line fluid exchange will fix things, that'd be a sub-$100 fix even if you include an in-line filter installation. Thank you for your service!

Have you serviced the transmission fluid regularly? Ever did a pan drop? Which ATF are you currently running? Are you the original owner of this Pathfinder? How many miles on it? Is it an auto or manual? (you didn't really specify, but I'm assuming it's an auto) R50s don't seem to have as many cases of the stock transmission cooler clogging as the WD21 does, but I suppose it's still a possibility. Usually on the WD21s reverse is the first to go since the line pressure required for reverse is the highest, and a restricted or clogged trans cooler is usually the cause. You can try this: NTB00-056b - 1988 AND LATER NISSAN VEHICLES AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER CLEANING and installing a 3/8" Magnefine in-line filter on the return line.

But the OP's air relief plug is the black capped off tube in the center of this picture:

Check the transmission fluid level and condition: In your case, check it cold since driving the vehicle may cause more damage. 1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature. 2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake. 3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P. 4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched areas labeled "HOT" "COLD". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel. The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt. If it is, do a drain & fill or a cooler line exchange. To do a transmission cooler line exchange, you will need: 12 to 15 quarts of automatic transmission fluid, preferably Nissan Matic D A clear gallon jug, something like an empty milk jug Another large container to store used fluid for disposal 1. Disconnect the transmission cooler return line and secure it in a collection bucket such as a clear gallon milk jug. This will be the hose on the passenger side of the vehicle; disconnect the end leading towards the transmission. 2. Have a helper start the car while you watch the bucket - once it's half full (2 quarts), yell for the helper to stop the engine. 3. Add 2 quarts of ATF through the transmission dipstick. 4. Drain collection jug into larger jug (i.e. a Disposoil - these only hold 10 quarts though in my experience, so have something else to hold the last 5 quarts). 5. Repeat steps 2-4 until you're out of ATF. 6. Check fluid for proper level (see the next question and answer for details), and recycle the old ATF. Any place that takes used oil will likely recycle ATF. Installation of a Magnefine in-line transmission filter on the transmission cooler return line is also highly recommended. The Magnefine contains a very strong magnet to catch all ferrous wear material, and filtering media in the range of 35 microns to catch anything non-ferrous.

The overflow hose is somewhere around 11 bucks, the clamp is about $6 from the dealer.

Are you sure you just didn't get a bad tank of fuel with high sulfur content which can be causing the smell?

I have some puny clamp: I think my overflow hose is sweating, I need to replace it...

WD21's T-case takes approximately 2.32 quarts of fluid, and the '95 FSM specifies ATF or 75W-90 gear oil as we both know.