Towncivilian

Have you maintained the fluid regularly?

0W-30 oil will flow better at extreme cold temperatures due to a higher viscosity index. Synthetic fluids in the transmission, differential(s), and power steering will also provide better cold weather performance and lowered operating temperatures.

The cooler is in the radiator. You can't really remove it, just bypass it. What's the transmission fluid's color, smell, and level?

I adjusted my accelerator wire.

I also have nothing in those screw holes. I'd say it's normal.

Was the anti-freeze pre-mixed with distilled water? The idle air control valve is the black sensor located underneath the throttle body. Remove and clean it. Clean the throttle body too while you have the intake tube off. Use throttle body cleaner only to prevent damage to any coating that may be on the throttle plate.

Yep, it's the HVAC climate control sensor. You can clean it, but I don't think it's worth the effort - see here for instructions.

The pre-facelift R50 has a different style bumper cover & inner bumper support, I think. I drove around without a rear bumper cover on for a while when I was repainting it but never took any pics of it like that. I know 01silvapathy also drove around without a rear bumper for a bit, see his post here.

Anything over 220F for long periods of times will quickly oxidize the fluid and start degrading the clutch packs. Anything less than 120F is probably not ideal for the trans, and it also doesn't allow any potential moisture build up to eventually boil off.

So what perpetuates the myth of requiring to bypass the stock cooler? Why not just exchange all of the fluid via the cooler return line, slap a Magnefine on it and maintain the fluid/filter from then on? Sure, an auxiliary trans cooler is still a good and relatively cheap addition, but aren't we spreading incorrect information by claiming the cooler clogs and deprives the trans of fluid?

What specifically about the tube cooler used on Pathfinder RE4R01As lends itself to clogging? It's just a friggin tube. By this logic, doesn't every vehicle with a radiator tranny cooler have the potential to clog? How much crap does a trans need to shed to clog up the cooler?

The factory coolers clog up in WD21s; I've read of one, maybe two cases of the stock cooler clogging on an R50. If you maintain the fluid, it won't clog up on any vehicle. I would run the aux cooler in-line with the stock cooler in order to get the fluid up to temperature quicker. Install a 3/8" Magnefine in-line filter too.

Why do you want to bypass the cooler in the radiator? You'll be fine with just the auxiliary cooler, the transmission will still get hot enough.

Yeah, I have a 2WD. I suppose that explains it, I don't know how I didn't think of that

Not necessarily, unless the price for the parts is about the same as a known and trusted aftermarket brand like Tungsten said. The OEM stuff seems to last forever, if I were to replace it I'd probably just use OEM stuff again to get another 250k miles (probably) out of them, but I don't have any plans to replace anything of the drums yet. I'll service them yearly (adjust and clean) though. I had the dealer service it sometime last year for $40, but I'd like to learn to DIY them. EDIT: Did a quick comparison: Raybestos @ RockAuto Drum - $37.79 ea Drum Brake Hardware Kit - $8.50 Shoes - $29.79 $113.87 - 5% discount = $108.18 OEM @ Courtesy Parts Drum - $139.46 + $91.90 (right/left?) Shoes - $49.35 No hardware kit package available. $280.71 Given the price disparity, I'd be inclined to go aftermarket if I ever needed to replace any of the drum hardware. I guess I wasn't aware how much more expensive the OEM parts are in this case.

What's wrong with the OEM stuff? I have 131k miles on my drums and the dealer said there's 55-60% life left in them. They last practically forever, why not just go for OEM parts again? I'd also be interested in a write up for servicing the drum brakes.

Nissan charged me $172.22 for the low pressure line (it's $124.59 from Courtesy Parts), $8.40 for refrigerant, and unfortunately I don't know what the exact labor charge is since several other services were performed during this visit.

My low pressure hose leaked at about 90,000 miles (I have 131k miles now). It was replaced by Nissan. I can dig up the cost of the service if you'd like. See here for instructions on removing this hose. You can probably get it repaired at some A/C shop.

I finally replaced my sweating radiator overflow hose. I had the part for like a month, just been lazy in getting it replaced. I ran out of pre-mixed Nissan coolant and had to top off with distilled water, but that's no big deal in Florida. What is the point of this thing under my washer fluid filler cap? It's all clogged up with sediment.

Your post wasn't deleted, you replied to the OP's other thread.

I'm wondering how I get ~17mpg with 100% city driving with my 2001.5. I don't drive like a grandma, either.

If you're wondering what the differences are, 2001.5 Pathfinders have revised spark plug coil packs to correct failures which plagued 2001.0 MY Pathfinders. Other than that, there is a newer smart entrance control unit in the latter half of the production of 2001.5 Pathfinders. Those are the only notable changes - anything else is pretty minor.

See EL-30. Looks like M/T equipped models have a back-up lamp switch which the A/T models don't. Not sure if that is significant. I don't know what else to advise other than to trace the wiring diagrams further.

I think it'd be a good idea to add 2001.5 to the list of options in the "year" field under profile. I have a 2001.5 Pathfinder since my manufacturing date is 10/00. Dates 01/01/2000-08/31/2000 are 2001.0 model years; 09/01/2000-06/03/2001 are 2001.5 model years, as far as I know.

No way in hell it is on an R50 either. I hit 150 miles on half tank then 100 miles later I'm at quarter tank.