Towncivilian

The FSM claims the gas cap as a potential cause of the code. I'm not sure which side the gas cap is on.

I regreased my accelerator pedal return spring.

Do you have an OEM radiator cap?

Tried replacing your gas cap with an OEM one yet?

Don't use belt dressings, they just cause the belt to slip. The buzzing noise might be a rattling exhaust heat shield. Just remove all of them, no harm will result.

No. The 1995 FSM and my 1993 owner's manual that reeks of cigarettes do not mention anything about power seats.

If your fuel pressure is significantly less than the spec, try changing the fuel filter as it can be partially restricted or clogged. It's also the easiest way to start troubleshooting such an issue.

wat Why wouldn't the factory use 13mm square drive sockets with whatever tool they used to tighten it and tighten it to the torque spec? Why would they risk damaging the plug? The plugs seem tighter than 36 ft/lbs or whatever because of potential dissimilar metal corrosion and who knows how many heating/cooling cycles the plug has gone through. Most of the time a 1/2" square drive tool won't loosen the plug in question without heat applied. You've experienced that obviously, and I have too when attempting to remove my rear diff fill plug - the plug just started deforming and wasn't budging. Get this and use one of their 20% off any single item coupons (in those coupon booklets you get in the mail) and it'll be $13.60 before tax. Cheaper than a new drain plug or having somebody remove it for you.

Aired up the tires, they were at 26 psi. Filled em up to 32. Gotta check the spare. The TPMS light in my mom's Altima went off last night. The tires were at 20 psi. I filled em up to 32, drives over 9000 times better now. I was also too lazy to check the spare, but it was like 40 degrees outside and it was relatively late.

The oil cooler also helps bring oil up to temperature quicker, since the oil is being warmed up to coolant temperature during cold starts.

I would guess that there won't be any significant corrosion on the bracket since I'm in Florida. Radwaste claims that unless the strut mount is damaged or cracked, there's no need to replace it, and the only parts that need replacing are the bearings and struts themselves. I believe my mounts are in good condition. Reuse? They are $31.09 each after all, not exactly a drop in the bucket overall. EDIT: Regarding the rest of the suspension details, RockAuto has the following parts for $258.63 shipped after their 5% discount: KYB GR-2 335030 (front right) KYB GR-2 335031 (front left) 2 x KYB Gas-A-Just KG4163 (rear) I'll probably go that route, since Tire Rack has the same components for $291.54 shipped. Anyway, since I'm not looking for a lift at this time, can I just reuse the stock coil springs, at least for the time being?

The oil pressure sending unit and oil cooler are right next to each other on the passenger side of the vehicle on VQ35DE equipped R50s. The starter is on the driver's side and looks like a longer black cylinder. The oil cooler O-rings leaking are a common cause of an oil leak on VQ35DE equipped R50s, and the thread I linked above details the replacement procedure.

That is the oil cooler, not the starter. A better picture of a leaking oil cooler: (from the thread I linked in my previous reply) But yes, the oil pressure sending unit is directly next to the oil cooler. I'd think the oil cooler O-rings are more prone to leak than the sending unit. Kmk2zf, read the thread I linked above. It's an easy and cheap fix to replace the O-rings on the oil cooler.

I can't see your image, but read this thread and see if it applies to you.

I know it is a common practice to replace the strut mount & bearings when replacing shocks. Are these the correct parts to replace? [54320] STRUT INSULATOR [54325] STRUT BEARING Are those the only two parts I need to replace? I gleaned that info from this post.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27438&hl=%20running%20%20backwards]&st=0

Have your alternator and battery tested.

lol You hotlinked an image from 4chan.org, and that isn't allowed (that site disallows it). Either that or the image is just dead by now. Just forget about 4chan.org, you probably should just stay away from there.

The blower motor will look something this (all these pictures are from an R50 so expect some differences): Clean the blower motor and its housing while you have it removed too... Blower motor housing, before: Dirt: Clean housing: Blower motor cage: Since there are so many fins, cleaning each and every one thoroughly would be an extremely time consuming process. I decided to run the fins under the sink, spinning the cage with my fingers quickly to remove most of the crud. I then used Q-tips to get most of the remaining crud off: I also detached the small tube, rinsed it under water and ran a paper towel through it to grab more crud and dry it:

I would link the recall PDF which details Nissan's inspection and repair procedure with pictures, but it seems that it is no longer on the NHTSA website, and the Chilton Online site doesn't want to load for me either.

Duh, I forgot about the shifter filling. But that really bites that your drain plug is rounded. When I tried changing my rear diff fluid months ago, I was starting to warp the fill plug, so I ended up buying a new OEM plug (and a new drain plug just for the hell of it too) and threw the problem on Nissan who changed it for $30 after I supplied the plugs & new gear oil (Valvoline white bottle 80W-90). It still ended up costing something like $80 after all the costs... the tech appears to have used some Teflon tape so hopefully when I change my diff fluid next I'll actually be able to do it. I guess that anecdote doesn't help you much Who's idea was it to use these weird ass plugs instead of bolts?

All of Royal Purple's fluids are purple, or so I've read. If it smells like ATF, it's ATF. You would know if it smelled like gear oil, especially used gear oil. The coffee smell is probably you desiring coffee; but really, the fluid was probably just burnt somewhat. If it smells burnt and is brown, the fluid began to oxidize due to heat. If the fluid is pitch black, well, you have problems. Since you were trying to remove your trans drain plug, I assume you got the fill plug off without an issue? I don't know what to suggest for removal of the trans drain plug at this point, though. How come you didn't remove both plugs when you had the trans off the vehicle?

FAST will tell you the interior color: If you provide a VIN, I can check it for you.

I know it is common practice to replace the strut mount & bearings when replacing shocks. Are these the correct parts to replace? [54320] STRUT INSULATOR [54325] STRUT BEARING Are those the only two parts I need to replace? I gleaned that info from this post.

Find the pinion seal on this exploded parts view to find the correct part number. I don't know what a pinion seal looks like.