Towncivilian

Today I replaced the original floor mats with new OEM ones I bought from eBay for $37 shipped. They are a slightly darker color (likely due to Florida sun's bleaching of my original mats) and don't have the "PATHFINDER" text on the outer edge of the two front mats as my original 2001 mats do. The driver's side has horizontal "PATHFINDER" text - they look like this set. My eBay set was manufactured in July 2002 I think. The original mats are still in pretty good shape.

Most 75W-90 gear oils are also synthetic.

That is fine for use in the differentials. Do not use it in the manual transmission.

This was my old door: This is my new door: I guess I didn't realize how the spoiler mounted or simply forgot about it altogether when I picked the door that didn't have the "grooves" for the spoiler mounting hardware.

Immaculate looking Pathfinder, and cool pictures! The junkyard cattle is hilarious. I like the look of the clear corners on your black PF. Not sure if you're aware, but a potential issue with our VQ35DE engines are the power valve screws backing out of their screw holes if no threadlocker was applied at the factory. It isn't a very common issue and nobody knows what specific years/VINs are affected. It's a wise idea to put red threadlocker on them to prevent this from happening - see this thread for a how-to and more details. I lost a way to mount my factory spoiler in the replacement of my back door (long story), so I'll keep have to keep an eye out for those hinges! If you could look for a pair next time you visit the junkyard, I'd appreciate it. That type of hinge doesn't quite look like the mounting method from the factory (the spoiler has even more clearance between the door with your type hinges), I'll post some pictures later since I'm not at home right now. Also, who still runs 56k in 2012?

Taken out of context and read before the OP, one can really wonder what exactly you're referring to.

H233b is the rear axle for all R50s.

Fill it up to the "FULL" mark on the dipstick. Underfilling will put more strain on the oil and likely increase the oil's temperature overall. At 3.60 quarts (IIRC) oil capacity with a filter, the VG30E already has a tiny sump. Putting ~2.5 quarts into it is lunacy.

What happened?

Yes, you can use 80W-90 GL-5 for both differentials. You can use synthetic 75W-90 too. Don't use anything except GL-4 only (no "GL-4 and GL-5" compatible fluid; that is referring to compatibility in differentials, not manual transmissions) for the transmission and transfer case.

Don't use the Lucas garbage. Mobil 1 spent ridiculous amounts of money in research and development, testing of the fluid, etc and by adding Lucas you added some unknown additive to the fluid. I'm not certain on what exactly is in the Lucas transmission conditioner, but it probably doesn't do much except slightly thicken the ATF to maybe increase line pressure. If you're going to put any additive in an automatic transmission, use Lubegard Red. It's used by many transmission shops and reduces operating temperatures. GM even recommends it in a TSB for certain Saab transmissions. Installation of a Magnefine in-line transmission filter on the transmission cooler return line is also highly recommended. The Magnefine contains a very strong magnet to catch all ferrous wear material, and filtering media in the range of 35 microns to catch anything non-ferrous. Install one on the power steering return line too to significantly prolong the usable life of the power steering fluid. A 3/8" Magnefine will fit both the transmission and power steering hoses. See a Magnefine filter in use for 23,000 miles opened here. The transmission cooler return line is located on the passenger side, and the power steering return hose is connected to the tube on the side of the power steering fluid reservior. See this thread for hints on removing the pan.

Greased my driveshaft. Is there any downside to greasing it this often? I'm trying to get rid of a tube of grease.

Many gear oils today contain LS additives already.

Mobil 1 ATF should work great. It's recommended for use where Dexron III is specified.

It's called "Dexron", not "Dextron". Everything but Dexron VI is no longer licensed and you really don't know whether the fluid meets specs if you purchase a Dexron 3 or older fluid. Dexron VI is supposed to be backwards compatible, but some have had issues with the thinner starting viscosity of Dex VI with other vehicles. Dex VI apparently starts out where Dex III would shear to rather quickly, so theoretically there should be no problem using it. But generally, any fluid that claims it meets Dexron III standards will suffice. Install a 3/8" size Magnefine in-line filter on the return line from the transmission cooler (the hose on the passenger side of the vehicle).

Brake fluid and engine coolant are ethylene glycol based and do not mix with oils, so do not dispose of those in the oil recycling containers at auto parts stores. Engine oil, ATF, PSF, gear oils (including MTF) are all fine to dispose of in the same container. Power steering systems do not generate as much wear as an automatic transmission - if one flushes the system once at 25k to purge break-in wear and manufacturing crud then maybe once every 50k or a siphon & fill every second or third oil change, the power steering system will be happy. Use of a synthetic ATF will reduce operating temperatures and enhance cold-weather performance. Green fluid is weird. I can't think of a possible explanation about that. I'm assuming it was red when it went in. What specific fluid was used?

Interesting. Can you post a couple pictures?

They are on some 1996-1998 models according to this TSB. I found a PF at my local junkyard with onet.

Check the brake fluid level if you haven't yet. See BR-31 for the adjustment procedure, it's very easy. Also lube where specified on page BR-30. If that doesn't help, perhaps the warning lamp switch is malfunctioning. See what happens when you press on it with your finger. Inspect its wiring if you can, or swap it out with a junkyard part.

R50s do not have user-serviceable door hinge pins. The entire hinge assemblies must be replaced, and the dealer is the only option for new ones. Best bet is to find them at a junkyard or find someone who is parting out their Pathfinder. Lame.

Some shop installed a Goodyear Gatorback belt like 15,000 miles ago on my PF and it's been quiet. If nothing ends up working, I'd recommend Gatorback belts or OEM belts. Don't use belt dressings, they just make the belt slip.

Fixed my fog light relay wiring and topped off washer fluid.

Fluid capacities: Transfer gear oil: 2.32 quarts Use Genuine Nissan ATF or equivalent Type Dexron II. Dexron II and III are no longer being licensed; use a Dexron III fluid, preferably synthetic for better cold-weather performance and lower operating temperatures. 75W-90 gear oil is also usable (it is not specified which GL rating fluid is usable; I would use GL-4 to be on the safe side), but do not mix ATF and gear oil in the transfer case. Differential gear oil: Use GL-5 fluid, preferably 80W-90. Rear: H233B: 2.95 quarts [*]Front: R180A: 1.37 quarts R200A: 1.58 quarts [*]Automatic transmission fluid capacity (with torque converter): Use Genuine Nissan ATF or equivalent Dexron III/Mercon fluid. 2WD: 8.34 quarts 4WD: 8.98 quarts Torque specs: Transmission drain plug: 22 - 29 ft-lbs Front differential: R180A & R200A: Filler plug: 29 - 43 ft-lbs Drain plug: 29 - 43 ft-lbs [*]Rear differential: H190A, H233B: Filler plug: 43 - 72 ft-lbs Drain plug: 43 - 72 ft-lbs As for specific fluid recommendations, Mobil 1 75W-90 gear oil can be had for cheap if ordered from Advance Auto Parts online. Use discount codes to save a ton. I'm using Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle in my transmission and have no complaints (I also bought the fluid with discount codes).

If you decide to use a Magnefine in-line filter, you'll need one with 3/8" fittings. Otherwise, I have nothing to add - the info above is very thorough.

Seafoam is: 1 PALE OIL 4229 40-60% (not a solvent) 2 NAPHTHA 20 25-35% (white gas, lighter fluid, solvent) 3 IPA 125 10-20% (Isopropyl Alcohol, solvent) The pale oil gives it some lubricating properties, the other two are strong solvents. I wouldn't throw that in my crankcase, personally. I don't see any reason not to run some Seafoam through a vacuum line (although some of it will end up in the oil of course, thus the recommendation to change oil soon after) or through the gas. Oil's color is not an indication of how much it's "used up". Your engine generates crap from the combustion process, blow-by, a ton of heat, etc, which is why the oil changes color. It's not like the additives magically disappear just because the oil turned dark. Some oils turn darker faster than others; oil in a diesel engine will turn black on the first turn over. I would only be concerned if the oil smelled strongly of fuel.