Towncivilian

Yeah, but it doesn't matter if you replaced the transmission casing or not. It still needs 5.1L of total fill to prevent the issue from ever occurring.

5W-30 and 10W-30 will be within the same viscosity range at operating temperature. 10W will be thicker (more resistant to flow) than a 5W at cold (i.e. ambient) temperatures. All Lucas will do is thicken up the oil by a grade or two overall and dilute the additive package of the oil. The resulting thicker oil will just mask the noise of the lifter tick.

I'll have to spin it again to check, then. A new Beck/Arnley fan clutch is about $90 from AAP, not sure I'd trust a used part. My mileage and power seem fine though, so it's probably okay

Somewhat off-topic, but my R50's engine fan is always running from the second I start the engine. Is it not supposed to? The fan seems to move with some resistance, but it's not impossible to move and it doesn't spin freely. The fan is not excessively loud and I can only hear it if I'm standing outside the vehicle. There are some cracks in the fan blade, but I'll be replacing it soon.

The DTC for P0325 is thrown when knock is detected. I'd clear it and see if it returns. Do you run anything except 87 octane in your Pathfinder?

NTB97-009a says the affected vehicles are: 1987-1995 Pathfinder (WD21) 4WD only 1986.5-1995 Truck (D21) 4WD only I think you meant pre-1996? Also, what's the point of running Lucas in a gearbox?

What if just the parking lights are on? Does the cruise still not work?

If it's the power steering pump whining, siphon & fill the reservoir with some synthetic ATF a few times with a couple days of driving in between. Use a turkey baster to siphon the fluid.

AutoZone has M1 75W-90 on sale for $7/qt (usual price $11/qt) through April 30th, so if you don't have an AAP nearby to use discounts with and Amsoil is inconvenient to obtain, get some M1 from AZ!

I really don't know. I'd like to find out. My el-cheapo Harbor Freight grease gun broke recently, but I grease my driveshaft more often than necessary out of boredom anyway so I'm sure it's fine for a few thousand miles, even though I'm using el-cheapo Supertech Moly-Lithium grease. Probably the only decent product Lucas makes is a grease gun, which is like $20 at Home Depot and looks pretty well-made - at least in comparison to the HF one.

Check the fuse for the tail lamps - illumination is also fused by this fuse, at least on newer models of Pathfinders. I'm not sure about WD21s.

All that will do is thicken up the MT oil by a grade or two and probably just slow the leak.

Do you have a scan tool? If so, hook it up and verify that the thermostat is working. Your coolant temperature should be around 180 degrees at operating temperature. You may want to invest in manual locking hubs to save a few MPG - search for Warn hubs and you'll find plenty of info. No service engine soon light lit? Make sure the LED works - it should come on if you set the ignition to "ON".

Good thing you were able to change things out. Don't forget to grease your driveshaft(s) - your 2004 wants NLGI #2 lithium complex grease. If you're getting only 12mpg around town, that's pretty bad. You should be getting around 14-16 with a 4WD without manual hubs, from what I've read. How many kms are on this Pathfinder?

Fixed images for you (they're identical, only posted one):

That doesn't make any sense. Mine took about 3 quarts. Are you sure yours drained completely, and were you parked on a flat surface during filling?

Higher octane fuel alone won't clean anything out. Instead of running >87 octane fuel which your engine can't take advance timing far enough to take advantage of, buy a bottle of Techron or Redline SI-1 and dump that in the tank.

The total capacity of the cooling system is 9.75 quarts including the overflow reservoir. If you are referring to the drain plug, that skid plate needs to be removed to access it.

A bad PCV valve or clogged up PCV hoses can affect idle, yes. Change it out if you haven't yet, it should be pretty easy to get to on your engine. Make sure the hoses aren't clogged too.

Looks like the attachment died, here's a working link: NTB99-004b - 1996-00 PATHFINDER, 1999-2004 FRONTIER (V-6) AND 2000-2004 XTERRA (V-6); MIL 'ON' WITH O2 SENSOR DTCs

Front differential: 1.95 quarts Rear differential: 2.96 quarts Transfer case: Part-time 4WD model: 2.32 quarts All-mode 4WD model: 3.17 quarts Download the correct FSM here, and owner's manual here.

Ah, the clamp is indeed there. Its color is very similar to the surrounding hose so I missed it at first glance.

Where is the hose clamp around the upper radiator hose? It's strange that the sticker on your radiator cap is peeling off. Inspect the radiator cap according to this TSB, if it is faulty, replace it. As far as I know, the only way to permanently stop the leaks in a plastic tank portion is to replace the radiator.

I know everybody says to stay away from KYB strut mounts. Are Moog strut mounts any good? They're pretty well priced at $28.89/ea at Amazon. OEM parts would be about $110-120 in comparison. Regarding KYB front strut part numbers, I've read here that KYB 335032 and 335033 are the correct part numbers for 2001-2004 Pathfinders but both RockAuto and Amazon list the 335030 and 335031 as parts that will fit. Anybody have a definitive answer?

Wix filters should be fine in terms of their anti-drainback valves (a faulty ADBV might cause your oil dummy light to flicker at idle on a cold start). Just to rule them out, try a different oil filter next oil change - Purolator PureONE, Mobil 1, Bosch Premium or Distance+ are all good choices. What's your typical oil change interval? If the diagnostic procedure ends up in requiring replacements, I used these camshaft position sensors as replacements with success.