Towncivilian

I don't think R50 combination stalks can be torn down very easily... there are no screws or anything to do so. I still think 01silvapathy needs to check the tail fuse!

Check tail light fuse in the engine bay. I blew the tail fuse the other day and interior illumination, parking lights, tail lights died. About the speakers, do you have the stock Bose system? The passenger front speaker was cutting in and out randomly for me when I had it. The tweeters always worked for me, but sounded significantly better after the tweeter mod and I could actually hear them! If you're still using the stock tweeters I highly suggest doing this mod.

The dealer found no corrosion on my Pathfinder. They also didn't need to remove the airbox for inspection. Non-salt states have a different recall # (R1108), I assume the inspection instructions are different as a result, and I won't be receiving an undercoating. I can't find R1108 on the NHTSA site. And yeah, some of these pictures are crazy and unimaginable....

See the results here!

Check RockAuto for the fog light.

Awesome, Howie! I'll use that one next time (in like, 3 years). adamzan, if you remove it, you'll have a gaping hole in the airflow and it will just blow out the air box thing toward the passenger's legs. Or maybe you could just rip out the filters and keep the plastic skeleton in there... With the new filter, the airflow seems improved. Even though the old filters weren't looking too bad at the time they were removed, it seemed that they were still providing some restriction.

Indeed, they were bought at NAPA. I will tap the dust out of the NAPA filters and reuse them for a year or more after the OEM filters become clogged. I also won't buy any more OEM filters as the NAPA Gold filters are more than sufficient. As I said, NAPA Gold cabin filters are likely manufactured by Wix. You can purchase Wix filters on Amazon for $20.

Today, I replaced the NAPA Gold 4863 in-cabin filters which were in use for about 18 months with Nissan OEM part # 999M1-VP003 ($36 on Courtesy Parts - which is the wholesale price the dealership offered me). Strangely, Courtesy Parts lists a different, cheaper part number under Accessories -> Interior for R50s. Perhaps these are the filters alone and do not include the new retaining clip, caution and replacement labels, or instructions, all of which were unnecessary in my case. I already have the caution label in my glove box, and the sticker is nice but not worth $4 (or $16 if I had bought the NAPA Gold again). The old retaining clip was still usable, but I used the new one anyway. Here are photos of the new filters: Both filters have 52 pleats, give or take one. Old filters: These filters have the same amount of pleats as the OEM filters. They don't have as much foam padding around the front of the filters. I paid around $20 for these filters, and they look comparable to the OEM filters. These filters are probably made by Wix, since most if not all of NAPA's Gold filter line (oil and air) is made by Wix. I would not hesitate to use them again. Other than the minor gripe about the foam padding, there is nothing wrong with these filters and they did their job well. Scans of instructions: Page 1: Page 2: Page 3: In short, these say nothing different than the guide on NICOclub. Here are scans of the caution and replacement labels: Replacement sticker (hit image limit )

The pumps are in the washer fluid reservoir - see exploded parts view.

Make sure the washer hose isn't kinked anywhere, too. Does the rear washer work?

Thank you for posting that NHTSA PDF. It appears that owners of Pathfinders with no or only surface rust around the strut towers (both driver and passenger!) will get a free undercoating with this recall. I will print out the first page and ask the dealer for this service soon.

Same with my R50, but in my case it seems to be a malfunction with the front wiper amplifier which is built in to the combination stalk - not as a separate "box" in the engine bay as earlier R50s have. The rear wiper wipes when I use either of the "spray" settings on the rotary switch thing, but that has its own separate amp in the rear driver's side cargo trim area.

My R50 doesn't have this "push up" feature - my mother's Altima does. On my Pathfinder I need to pull it down and push it back up as others have stated.

I think you are missing a pronoun. A "multi-use siphon pump" can be found at Harbor Freight for $5 after coupon, but I don't know if HF is around in Canada or what the price would be. I'd link to it, but the HF site seems to be down.

The FSM says this except to drive around for 10 minutes after the trans is at operating temperature. You could have used a suction gun or something similar to suck some fluid out instead of doing the mess with the drain plug.

You should change your brake fluid more often than every 5 years or more. As I said earlier, brake fluid is hygroscopic and water is bad in the brake system. A quart of brake fluid every 2 years at the most is cheap (assuming you bleed your own brakes).

The stock one is integrated into the radiator, all you can do is cap it off. Be sure to buy a new filter and gasket - rockauto.com has them for cheap. I use a Beck/Arnley filter/gasket in my R50's trans without issue, just make sure you removed the old filter's O-ring and ensure there's an O-ring on the new one. The filter is more of a screen, it doesn't do any fine filtration and should be measured in something like mashed bananas instead of microns, but you may as well replace it while you've got the pan off. OEM parts are stupidly expensive - see this thread for approximate prices. Just the filter ("strainer" as Nissan calls it) would be $30 on Courtesy Parts. Use brake cleaner to clean out all the stuff in the pan and the magnet in the pan (remove it to clean it well). The pan bolts are suggested to be replaced by the FSM since they are self-sealing and come with some sort of threadlocker or anti-seize from the factory, but as long as you install the gasket properly you can simply clean and reuse them. Torque spec for filter bolts is 61 - 78 in. lb, and pan bolts are also 61 - 78 in. lb (this is from the 2001.5 FSM but it should be identical - I'll check vs. a '94 FSM). EDIT: Torque spec is 61.2 - 78 in. lb, basically identical. Drain plug torque is 22 - 29 ft lbs (I use 25) and you will need a new crush washer. If a pan drop is successful in getting your trans to work again, do a cooler line flush using synthetic ATF, add the biggest trans cooler you can afford and fit, and add either an in-line filter or a spin-on filter mount.

Do WD21s with the RE4R01A trans have a drain plug on the torque converter? If not, where does the cooler inlet line get its fluid from? Then again, wouldn't the fluid in the torque converter not matter much as it does get circulated - in other words, it doesn't matter where you get fluid from to check condition? I think you should just check the transmission fluid condition with the dipstick to start with. If it looks bad, do a pan drop & filter change and see if that does anything. Bypass the factory cooler maybe if that gets somewhere.

I don't tow but added a trans cooler & aux inline filter anyway. I haven't towed anything personally, but my brother towed a light jetski once and small U-Haul trailers have been towed before (just with stock cooler) and never had any problems. Probably nothing over 500-1000 lbs ever.

Since you can't move it'll be difficult to verify the fluid level of the transmission properly. Just pull the dipstick and examine the fluid's color and smell and check for metal particles floating around. The fluid should be pink/reddish and not smell burnt/oxidized. Have you maintained your transmission with drains & fills or flushes? If not, your stock cooler probably clogged (it's a common thing with neglected auto trannies on WD21s) and your transmission is done.

Does it do this? In this case, some white lithium grease on the regulator arm fixed the issue and it still is fine. Next time I need to grease that up I'll use some more durable grease like wheel bearing grease or something that I can apply with my fingers rather than a spray which gets everywhere.

Painted my bumpers, fender flares, rear mudflaps (those were an absolute bitch to put back on, I just put them back on an hour ago... worst part of it all, plus I ended up with a pushpin or something left over), and the black covers next to the fog lights. Not perfect, but good enough. Pictures tomorrow or something.

I don't know what the VG engines spec, but VQ35DEs spec premium fuel of at least 91 octane. I notice a difference when running 93 octane; better acceleration, slightly better fuel economy. Technically all grades of gasoline must contain a minimum level of detergency; some gas stations add more additives to meet top tier standards but who actually knows how much extra "additive" you get and if it actually helps in the long run? Top tier detergency levels are not strictly enforced as of right now.

I was simply making a suggestion. Oil prices at W*M have been steadily rising - often deals at auto parts stores which include a filter are better deals. But I have 13 filters stashed, so maybe W*M will be my oil outlet for the time being.

AFAIK all Rotella variants are API certified. Pick your weight and conventional, syn-blend or synthetic and you should be good to go. Plain jane dino 10w-30 is cheaply found at Wal-Mart (only gallon jugs which are 4qt, and maybe individual quarts at my local WM, dunno about yours) and will do well for 5k+ OCIs assuming no engine or consumption issues. Out of curiosity, which oil filter do you typically run?