88pathoffroad

I think you have your answer.

Your Pathy should have FOUR catalytic converters. Two right after the exhaust manifolds and two underneath. You don't want to have Midas do it for you unless you have money to burn. I'd look through a phone book for a smaller local mom-and-pop type muffler or exhaust shop, then go in and talk with the guys and see what you can come up with that makes you happy. Chain stores usually only replace stock parts with stock parts, and at the highest imaginable price.

No idea. Did a Terrano ever come with a SD33?

Unknowned? *snic* OK... Turning on the ignition turns mine off. Alternately, you can unplug the alarm module under the driver's side seat.

Bah, different engines are built different, you can't be responsible for knowing everything.

What the hell is a rollback? Do you mean a rear wheel dolly?

They did the requested work, nothing more. Some guys are just like that, they just don't give a shxt.

Cool beans, man. Glad to help! At least you didn't have to go to a shop and get charged big bucks to fix it.

Probably, if you're using stock wiring. Stock wiring was good for 110W total, doubling the current flow will heat up the wiring and may cause serious problems if it grounds out somewhere.

There are also some 90 degree twisted brackets that go through the bumper holes and attach to the frame near the middle on each side.

Probably. Did you get 4" longer shocks for all four corners or just the rear? 'Cos the front shocks need to stay near stock length, front suspension doesn't gain any travel when you lift it. Just ride height. Actually, 4" longer than stock may be overkill even in the rear.

How did they tow it? If they lifted the front and towed it with the rear wheels still on the ground, that'd do it. It's supposed to be flat-bedded or have the driveshaft disconnected if you tow it with rear wheels on the ground...with no fluid in the tranny, it'd probably just spin and spin and spin and ruin itself.

Says right here in my FSM... "Remove flywheel/drive plate" "Remove oil seal retainer" "Remove rear oil seal from retainer" "Apply engine oil to oil seal and install it using suitable tool" "Install rear oil seal retainer with a new gasket to cylinder block" Nothing about dropping the oilpan. The RMS is above the oilpan if the pics are correct.

Check your fusible links on the battery's positive post. The main fuse panel link at the battery may be loose or corroded, making intermittent contact.

After all this time and much discussion regarding thrust blocks inside drum brake centersections, I thought a swap would involve pulling the diff and removing the block, but apparently the axles are both the same exact length and all that is required are the parts from a donor axle. NICE! Nissannut from nissan4wheelers has done the swap and shows you how...on a HB pickup. It'd be way easier on a Pathy, you'd just need the disc e-brake cables instead of modifying the HB e-brake setup. Include a new disc brake master cylinder with the swap and you're done with minimal fuss. http://nissannut.com/projects/H233b_disc_brakes/

Swiss Army pocket knife?

All I have to say is, if the old one fails somehow you may end up either tearing off the timing cover to replace it or tearing back into the engine to replace the heads again. It's cheap insurance, all things considered. Some people have changed their belt and just run the old one with no problems, but with such a critical part in question I wouldn't take chances.

:worthless:

Oh, and you can get a downloadable factory service manual from PhatG20.net for free. They usually cost anywhere from $50 to $150 elsewhere...

The reverse light switch is on the transmission. Check your wiring and see if it may have been damaged or pulled off by road debris somehow? Here's where:

If you do get junkyard springs, measure them before buying them. They should be at least .56" thick. The thicker, the better. The .54" or .52" thick springs won't give as much lift.

Sweeeeeet.

All the relays are marked, try the one that says "Inhibit" on the cover. That is, if you have an auto. You never said.

Could be the ignition switch or the inhibitor relay. Try tapping the relay next time it happens and see if it starts. I believe it's under the hood...

Start the engine. Probe both wires at the coil to see which gives you an RPM reading. There you go.