88pathoffroad

Isn't there a thread in the How-To section on how to install these?

I don't think it works enough to make a real difference. Hype is one thing, results are another.

Make sure it's the rear main and not your oilpan or anything else. That'd be a lot of work to do just to find out it's not what was leaking. Just so you know, rear mains on a VG engine are not even close to the same design as a Chevy or Ford rear main. The oilpan is completely separate.

That thing sticks out WAY too far for me to like it. If I had one and went to the sand dunes I'd be scared of the extreme bumpage pwning the thing. Spare tires are heavy!

Probably, yeah.

Heh, a Ford 302? What about that damn spark-o-matic ignition box they used that always fails when you least expect it?

Once again, look in the How-To section of the Garage forum. I can't post scans of VG30E stuff because 87-89's are all VG30i...

In Oz they tend to use skinny tall tires like that for everything. Take a look at some of the long-trek Land Rovers and Land Cruisers, they run 33x9's all the time. I had some 33x10.50's, I now have 33x13.50's...I think I'll just go with a 33x12.50 next. There's not that much difference but the wider the tire, the more it will rub, generally speaking.

I seem to remember someone recently saying that Richmond Gear hasn't made a new batch of H233B Lock-Rights and probably won't for a while. He also said he bought the last one.

1. The only US Nissans that got a TBI(VG30i, specifically) were 87-89's. The 4-cylinder KA24 uses the exact same TBI unit. 2. Early US 300Z's never had a VG30i, they were all VG30E's with MPFI.

Something either broke or stripped out. I've heard of one person experiencing a stripped-out torque converter being their problem. It could also be completely internal, I can't tell from here.

I bet JB Weld would hold. Perhaps the fitting you got was manufactured slightly out of round or was somehow subjected to pressure enough to deform it somehow and you just need a different one. *shrug*

I dunno. If someone could build an adapter plate, I bet you could use a Chevy TBI on there, as long as the injector types, mass airflow sensor and throttle position sensor match. The stock TBI setup has a single fire/double fire setup where they fire singly when under light throttle and both wide open at WOT, no idea how Chevy TBI's are set up, if they would be compatible. Other than that, what would you use?

The only place you're going to find new ones is possibly Ebay or a dealership.

The speedo will be off by about 1% if you change tires, not enough IMHO to warrant tearing into the transmission to change speedo gearing. Have you checked your speedo with a GPS to see if it currently reads correctly to begin with? Try borrowing one and give it a try. You might be surprised. I went to 33's with no speedo correction and all it does is read about 5 MPH slow at 65 MPH. Pinion angles? No, that's on the rear diff, nobody I've ever talked to has had any problems with that. The main problem when you crank the t-bars up more than an inch and a half or so is the upper balljoints. It's perfectly safe to crank 'em up as long as you don't overdo it and have the UCA's resting on the bumpstops. It also makes the tie rods slightly more likely to be bent if you wheel it hard, but it's not going to do it right away. If you hadn't found out yet, there are no aftermarket gear producers for Nissans, you'd have to buy new gears at a dealership and IIRC they cost around $500 for one ring and pinion, not including install. It'd cost you $1000 minimum JUST to buy gears.

You don't even need to take the t-bar out, they come off and out of the crossmember with the t-bars in place if you're patient. I have a pair of extras, but they're my spares in case I strip one out.

It looks better when it's level. That and the front end, which is the heavy end, doesn't tend to bottom out over bumps and look like an old Cadillac with blown shocks.

Transmissions and t-cases do NOT share fluid. They are totally separate. That's why manual transmissions take GL-4 and some t-cases take Dexron III.

If you're just wondering about swapping the intakes, yes, I believe if you simply remove the whole 3.3 intake you can bolt your 3.0 intake on. The bigger problem you face is using the 3.3 crank balancer and pulley with the stock 3.0 accessories, the belts are different IIRC. By the way... http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/february05/pathfinder/

Yah, but a can of MAPP gas costs $10 while propane is about $3.

Drill a hole, use a grommet and silicone, run wires down the windshield trim inside.

aries, where have you been? 31's fit STOCK and with stock wheels they usually don't rub anything. Running 10" wide wheels with 31x10.50's will probably make them rub, yes. A 15x10 wheel is too wide. You can mount 31's on a stock 15x7 wheel no problem. My 13.5 Swampers are mounted on 15x8.5's. Not a single problem. DaveS: crank up your t-bars slightly and level it out, (if you haven't already) I doubt you'll have any bottoming out problems. If you do, any vehicle would have the same problem and it'd probably be because you were abusing it.

You'd need to tap and install oil line fittings on the block and oilpan (I think) or just get an external oil filter kit and use high-pressure hose to put the oil cooler inline with the external filter. I plan on running an oil cooler when I put my filter kit and headers on, just for that added security. It's a good idea, just not really necessary.

I dunno why you would need to take out the bearing locknut. It's pretty simple. I didn't even need instructions when I put mine on.

I think it needs to be running for any data to come back from any of those tests.