88pathoffroad

30x9.5's fit a skosh better. 31's might rub in a few places with no lift.

The compass is self-contained, you can buy a little digital compass at an auto parts place for about $12 that works exactly the same way. I would think that if you're up to doing a little wiring you could just simply use the existing light wiring and add it to the new console. I snagged a little overhead console from a Chevy S-10 Blazer that has some Homelink buttons in it, I plan on modding it to use for overhead lights. The addition of a compass and map light will be truly welcome! Old Pathys had pretty poor interior lighting.

I have a RS9000 from the junkyard that is in perfect shape, yet totally locked up. If a shock were to lock like that under compression, it could feasibly hold the spring compressed and make it sag.

If you don't mind the ride, set all your tires to the max inflation pressure. They'll ride a bit rough but will give you a little boost on mileage.

Pics are awful small to tell any detail. I dunno. JDM intakes were made differently than the US ones. Neat PCV tube thingie, heh.

I used a piece of 1"x2" steel and bolted it to my Yak rack bars. The lights are bolted to that.

You and your fancy-schmancy engineerin' degrees...you think you know what's goin' on! Allright, I stand corrected. *shrug* I'll check mine sometime and see how it warms up.

That's what I did the last four or five times I needed a spindle. Just lay that ole UCA on the ground, aim a propane torch at it and let 'er cook until you can scrape out all the rubber and get it apart.

Check your harmonic balancer. They tend to separate at the rubber joint and squeak. Get underneath, grab that puppy and see if it moves in any direction.

Like I stated above, there are two belts, round tooth and square tooth. There has never been a chain on any VG30. I have no idea where this "pointy tooth" thing is coming from. o.O

Yep. Stock UCA's will stay in one piece, but the upper balljoints will be at an unfavorable angle and a proper alignment will be tougher to accomplish. Hence the aftermarket UCA's. They address the BJ angle problem and the alignment problem.

Go read the How-To thread in the How-To section...yours should have a change interval of 105,000 miles.

Pull the passenger side seat, pull up the carpet, then disco the ground wire for the ECU and unwrap the wiring so you can move it into the glove box. Make sure you re-attach the ground wire somewhere solid. Lots of people have done it.

It's actually a magnetic reed switch that feeds pulses to the ECU so it can calculate your speed. I think what you need to do is replace the plastic gear inside the trans that drives it with a new one to match your tire size. What size tire are you going with and what did you have before?

Why wouldn't you be able to use the same tires you already have? Obviously they fit with no lift. The AC lift kits are crapola. I wouldn't run one if someone gave it to me. Rough Country is real nice, works well. Calmini is overpriced/overbuilt but is a good kit.

Is this with stock exhaust and cats, or something newer? Stock timing? 87 octane? What elevation?

Nope. It should be just fine. With the trans fluid flowing through that sucker at 40 psi, I highly doubt any "air pockets" will stay there long. Ford Exploder coolers are mounted with the input/outputs on the bottom. Stock. I REALLY doubt this idea.

Shoot, $400 for a 75K mile VG30? Go get ya one. I'd go with the Pathy engine, since the guy verified mileage, or at least what appeared to be the mileage.

Have you tested compression, fuel pressure and verified timing yet? Tell us what you've tested or checked. It could be many, many things.

Pointy teeth? Hrr? There are two kinds, round and square tooth. The round-tooth belt has a 105,000 mile change interval, the square-tooth belt has a 60K interval. I believe you can swap the sprockets, not too sure about the crank gear matching up though. If you find one, try to fit it on there and let us know. I'd take $25 plus ship for some cam gears. Let me know.

Did you have a question of some sort? I dunno what to tell you.

I think I have a pair of those. I was saving them for a rainy day.

Can you do any work on it yourself? It doesn't NEED to cost that much. Find and fix the coolant leak first.

Use the search button and read posts first. That would be a good place to start.

It should swap right in AFAIK. Some HB guys have done it.