88pathoffroad

Have you messed with the surround or bass effects on the new HU yet? A lot of the time adjusting the HU will give you much better sound than leaving it all flat or at "0". 'Course, 6" speakers aren't renowned for good bass to begin with...

When mine went, I ordered new brushes for it from a local parts store, then pulled the starter and rebuilt it with the new brushes in about two hours. Cost me about $7 IIRC. That's what usually wears out, the rest of the starter is mostly solid-state parts that don't move or wear excessively.

Who knows? I don't think I've ever seen anyone here comment on auto transmission performance other than, "this thing doesn't shift right".

If it only does it when you have the wheels turned all the way one way or the other, it's the steering stops. If it does it over bumps kinda anywhere, it's probably the front crossmember bolts needing to be re-torqued. It could also be: loose/worn centerlink or tie rods, worn idler arm, balljoints, tension rods or swaybar endlinks.

Christ, I wouldn't think it'd be that easy to ruin an engine. Owie.

Well, there's SOME stuff there. Interesting. I wonder why only front end body parts?

The most fun part is getting the old wiring harness off the top of the transmission and routing the new one back up. The 02 sensor is located right under the driver's seat or so on the exhaust pipe in front of the cat.

Balljoint, shock, swaybar, UCA bushings, idler arm bushings, CL, tie rods...

For $50 that's a deal. You could re-sell it to someone else for $100 if it doesn't work out for you. Custom-built prerunner and skid combos are NOT cheap.

I doubt the CV is your problem unless it's really destroyed inside. They don't even spin unless you're in 4WD.

The only reason for PS cooling I could imagine is if you had a hydraulic winch running off the PS pump.

Starter's shot.

Engine mounts/trans mounts need to be fabbed Exhaust headers/manifolds are very tight Little to no radiator clearance Distributor clearance at firewall Speedo/cable/sensor won't match Chevy trans If you go with a full Chevy drivetrain, you also get to mod both driveshafts I dunno, there's a lot of things to be done for a 350 swap to work. Just takes time and money.

14mm = .55 inches 5/8" = .625" Ranchos have a good reputation. I've never had a problem with any, but I have seen one in a junkyard that was locked up totally. Could have been from a wreck, but the truck that shock was on was in pretty good shape still.

A good swap would be to get a VG33E, bore it to 3.4L, port/polish heads, cams, headers and AFC or ECU upgrade, then reinstall the VG30 externals onto the new 3.4. The blocks are nearly exactly the same AFAIK.

Drilled a hole, installed a grommet and silicone. Hasn't leaked yet.

There was an unmarked can in there? SO THAT'S WHERE THAT WENT!! SWEET! You'd honestly be scared to drive my van right now. When I take off from a stop it 'chugs' HARD four times before hooking up and actually accelerating. It slips bad in second, third and lockup, shudders the whole van if I try to give it gas. I've been living on my couch and not going anywhere except work in town. I think I've only bought $40 in gas in the last month.

I have a pair of Recaros in my Impulse, maybe I should look into swapping those into the Pathy.

The PIAA 1500's are good as fog lights, the driving versions could use a little boost in the output department. I don't think PIAA's are God, I just like the design and the looks. Lightforce lights are the BOMB. I'd love a nice set of those. The main reason I have so many PIAA's is Ebay! People sell 'em cheap there all the time. I got my 70 series fogs for $27 I think, they use 130W bulbs and put out MASSIVE amounts of light at night. Brand new, nothing wrong with them, missing wiring and switch is all. Hellas are good, Pro-Comp makes decent lights, and you probably cant go wrong with a few of these Harbor Freight lights if all else fails, they're cheap. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=47394 These probably wouldn't be bad either. HID's for $119? Wow. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=95059

Nobody makes any. I think you have to make your own out of a set made for a different vehicle.

Can someone show me which side is the input and which is the output, then? They're not marked and the kit I opened up and looked at in the auto parts store has nothing whatsoever about in/out lines in the instructions. Why would it matter? They're completely symmetrical.

Nice, Grant. Looks like fun!

Best and most expensive...

I'll have a look and let you know.

When I did the BL on Rami's Pathy I had to weld a piece of steel onto the side of the damn thing and then put it in a vise and beat the everlovin' piss out of it with a 2-lb hammer before it finally broke loose and started moving. Some work out easier than others.