88pathoffroad

About 90% of the R50's out there have a code for the goddamn knock sensor. It's a piss-poor component that seems to not work unless replaced every 50K miles. You can pretty much ignore that one unless it starts knocking or pinging on you. For the Cyl 1 misfire, dunno. Check your plug wires, make sure there are no cracks. Could also be a crappy fuel injector.

Tire balance has more to do with it than the swaybar.

Not all rear disc axles had LSD. The one in my 89 didn't, and it had disc brakes.

Hi Jon! *waves*

Hardware store should have fitting ends. Knecht's Auto parts here in town carries all that stuff. And...

You can't have an LSD and a locker. The locker replaces the diff case inside.

lol...leafs and coils up front... Um, no. Struts up front and coils out back on a 96. Take a look under her skirt, you'll see.

Lee ended up swapping to a manual tranny and then his crank broke. It was running N/A when the crank broke.

Dex III is interchangeable with Nissanmatic AFAIK. That's all I've ever used in mine. Check your owner's manual. You can download a free owner's manual from Nissan if you don't have one.

Sweet! Good deal, man. That's what you needed!

Not that I know of, but sometimes the UCA spindle bolts are real tight and hard to get out, particularly because they're so far inside the wheelwell. Sometimes they strip out on the way out too, but it's not common. Just remember that you'll more than likely need an alignment after you lift it.

I hate to pee in your shoe, but IIRC the LSD's for R50's are pretty weak (half the strength of a WD21 LSD?) and often don't help much off-road. I'm sure it will be better than an open diff, but yeah. I believe you can rebuild it with an extra clutch disc or two to tighten it up, though. You might want to look into that if you intend to off-road it anywhere much burlier than a mud puddle. Or am I totally off my rocker? Anyone with an R50 that has LSD care to chime in on it's performance?

It doesn't need a valve job, it needs new valves. It's gonna be spendy. Two totally different jobs.

Sorry to say, but when my van's tranny started slipping, it was the beginning of the end. It finally broke loose and I had to fry the piss out of the clutches to get it around a corner and park it. Try 3000-4000 RPM at 3 MPH for slippage.

I doubt you'll get much better mileage out of a 99. They also nickel-and-dime people to death quite often. Try tracing an error code that won't go away, regardless of the number of expensive new parts thrown at it... *sigh*

Today's technology kicks my ass. Very nice!

I look forward to using synthetic in my diffs and t-case in the future. Pricy but worth it.

Oil out the tailpipe? Ouch. That'd be a popped head gasket, maybe. I've seen a Ford straight 6 spitting coolant straight out the exhaust, it REALLY blew a HG.

Good to know, thanks for the info. Another thing to think about is using a 83-97(?) Chevy truck MC and modifying your stock brake lines. The Chevy MC has a higher capacity and increased line pressure, which equates to better braking (as long as your rubber brake lines are in good shape). To do that swap, all you have to do is enlarge the stud holes on the MC so it physically bolts on, then cut the metric ends off the brake lines, get a single tee fitting, some extra brake line and some SAE threaded line fittings, then put the fittings on and re-flare the lines, then reconnect to the Chevy MC. The Chevy MC has two outputs instead of three like the Nissan MC has, hence the tee fitting. Several people on Nissanoffroad did this and report good results. I know I've been thinking about it, 'cos my brakes have sucked BAD since day one.

Yeah, with a garden hose out the window for drainage. To pull the carpet you get to take out all the seats, seat belts, console, doorstep trim, interior panels as needed, etc. If you leave it wet it will never dry out. The plastic backing on the carpet will trap moisture under there for years and rot the floor out in any place that isn't rust-proofed.

Good to know, thanks everybody. So, parts list: axleshafts with disc brakes equipped hard brake lines from center of rear axle to brakes disc MC if so desired e-brake cables for discs That's about it.

Why in the world would you drown your Pathy like that? Ouch.

Ugh. Getcha a nice Cold Steel knife, they're f'n AWESOME for edge retention and strength. I had a Recon Tanto for quite some time but dropped it once, snapping a good 3/8" off the tip.

Good point, I forgot about the MC. *edits*

How many miles? What's been done to it maintenance-wise recently? Oh, and a full detailing job inside and out helps sell cars.