88pathoffroad

That's JPHI's truck from Chile. He had an Isuzu 3.2L V6 put in it along with a SAS and the custom bumpers. Very nice rig. Before that he had a turbo 4-cylinder. He sold it in 2007 and now sports a Patrol GU, the bastid. 4WD and Off-Road Magazine Reader's Rides Section: http://images.4wheeloffroad.com/readersrid...ew_King_Cab.jpg http://www.geocities.com/jpvmlichttotobal/jpvm4x4.html If I looked hard enough, I could come up with a pic of the dimensions (blueprint) of that front bumper. I have it somewhere on one of my hard drives.

2WD's have a carrier bearing and 2-piece driveshaft, just like the HB pickups. If you're 4WD, you should have a one-piece DS with no lift problems.

The left cam seal is the one that's notorious for leaking. It's fairly easily replaced. You can either try using a thin-bladed flat screwdriver to gently pry the old seal out or drill a screw-sized hole in it, screw in a screw and use that to tug it out carefully. Be extra careful not to scratch the surface of the cam itself, scratches will make the seal fail very quickly. To install the new seal, lightly tap it in using an appropriately sized socket, hollow drift or the old seal itself to tap on. Good luck, man!

When mine did that, it was the brushes. New brushes installed for $7 or so and it works to this day.

Hey Fueler, why don't you go back on over to JWT and show them how they should do it? If you're only 10 minutes away.... heh. It'd be nice to get parts for Pathies that actually fit right.

Only 3 mill a day? I get about 29 mill last I checked. *checks* Oops, 67 mill per day. lol

If it didn't have fogs to begin with you'll have to wire them in yourself anyway. WD21's with fogs got an aftermarket Bosch relay and wiring setup anyway. Google for some more info, it's not that hard to wire in fog lights. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

I went from 31's to 33x10.5's after a 3" body lift, then added the 3" SL and got the 33x13.5's. I don't remember the date I got the 33x13.5's. It was some time ago.

Trailmaster makes a 4" suspension lift and they used to make a 3" body lift. Not too sure if they still make the body lifts. To run 33's you usually need at LEAST 3" of lift one way or the other. Simply running a 3" suspension lift likely isn't going to keep 33's from rubbing but some people say it works. Personally, I had to trim the CRAP out of my front fenders after a 3" BL and a 3" SL to run 33's. I started out with a 3" body lift, got 33x10.50's and they still rubbed, so I went with the SL too and they barely touched at times. Now I have 33x13.5's and it takes quite a bit of work to get them to rub.

Thorley or Jardine needs to build ONE SET and then install them on a test mule to fine-tune their design. I keep hearing "Mine didn't fit and we had to cut and weld a bunch of stuff" from people with Thorleys. ehhehe

Wiring for what? They have separate diagrams for each system.

Bah, I've run at LEAST 40 gallons of straight distilled water through my van's engine (350) and not a problem whatsoever. I was testing the water injection idea to see if it gave better mileage. Nope. Not on a carb'd old Chevy van, anyway.

Some do, some don't. Depends on trim level or dealer-equipped options. My stock seats do NOT recline at all. They're up or down. The rear seats I saved out of the wrecked 89 I had DO recline, though. They're just covered in dog hair and stains...

4Runners have the same timing belt issues on the V6 as the Pathy IIRC. Change that belt!

If it has all three lights on at the same time, your alternator is having problems. Get it checked!

Yup. Put it in neutral, hit the button, then start it. No clutch pushing required.

Thermostat is in the center of the front of the engine, has a metal tube going down the front left side (facing the engine) to the bottom of the radiator...it's a bitch to get to but doable.

This question has been asked literally a hundred times already...search around a little bit

I should make up 4 cells for my van and find a 100 amp alty for it. Actually, I HAVE a 100 amp alty in my garage that the charging post broke off of. I wonder what it'd take to fix that bad boy. It's a chrome alternator. I already have a line running from inside the cab to a vac line, I used to run water injection on it for kicks to see if it helped. It did, then it didn't, so I took the water jug and drip-feed valve out and capped the line. The van is carb'd, so no sensors to fool. The only problem I can see is that I hardly ever refill the tank completely, I'm too broke. Hard to estimate mileage that way. I also need a new battery or two for inside (I run my 1800W power inverter off an in-cab gel-cell but the battery apperas to be taking a dump on me).

Exact same procedure.

It's "Excessive Tire Noise" here. Ask me how I know that one. I've also never been messed with for having uncovered lights...hell, I'd have to order covers separately for mine, they didn't come with solid covers. I did get a warning once for having two sets of fogs on and no headlights at dusk once...I was like..."What's the difference? I can see just fine..." And then there's the time I was driving 70 miles home from work in my van and the headlight switch fried when I turned it on...had to drive home using three cheap Harbor Freight fogs on the bumper, made it home fine.

I got mine at a local auto parts place. StrongArm brand. They work fine. They were about $25 each IIRC.

The 4x4 badges pop out and then you have to take out the headliner or trim to bolt on the bar IIRC.

Nope, you don't even have to remove the switch. Just unplug, replace, ziptie the wiring up.

What year, what engine? Do some searching, the questions you've asked have been answered many times over already...