88pathoffroad

Define "cold air box". The stock filter box pulls air from the fender, I don't see how making a box under the hood is going to help it suck any cooler air. That and it won't make any difference in power, it's been done before and people are usually disappointed with the results.

It wouldn't be OBDII if it were non-standard. I've used generic code readers on all kinds of vehicles, newer Pathfinders included. Works fine.

IIRC, a Waggy axle is 63" wide. I may remember wrong. Read the build plate inside your engine compartment, it's under the fender on the passenger's side. The Axle Code will be HG43(4.375:1) or HG46(4.625:1), like FLApathy said. New gears for the rear axle are around $500 a set, just so you know.

I doubt the type of oil has much to do with it, the tranny is simply dying on you. First goes the bearing rollers, then the cage, then it heats up and starts cooking fluid and making it black and nasty...you know where this is heading...

Ugh, what a crock. What will they come up with next?

Try a little searching... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=255

It should be fine...the tranny will only pump so much fluid. The entire thing's not under pressure full-time. If it has way too much it could possibly leak somewhere.

*refrains from commenting due to imprecise questions initially asked*

Install a tranny temp gauge and sensor in the oil pan.

It could be any number of things, and what do you mean by "limit"? The battery should have no drain at all if everything's turned off, minus the alarm(if so equipped).

Usually you have to drop the exhaust to get the pan off, yes.

No.

They shouldn't even have asked, they should have corrected the camber and given it back to you.

Coolness, mine did that a long time ago and the dealership guys said it happens all the time.

Glue's not gonna hold that together. Stuff a golf tee into the rubber hose and call it good unless you need to pass emissions...

IIRC, those are made by Shrockworks. Try asking them.

Some aftermarket filters come pre-oiled too heavily and the intake can actually suck a fine mist of oil through it, coating the MAF sensor and triggering the CEL.

The crank sprocket pulls straight off, yes. The crank seal is in the front of the oil pump, so no, you don't have to take it off.

There is a spacer inside the differential on drum brake axles that has to be removed to install disc brake axles. IIRC. Meaning you have to take the diff out, tear it apart, then put it all back together... Otherwise you could swap backing plates off the disc-equipped axles and put them on your drum axles and not worry too much about that part...

I don't think it matters if the vehicle was 4x4 or not, to use it you'd have to replace all the external accessories and brackets anyway. Dunno on the tranny bolt-up, but I would think it'd be the same. 4.3's are way overrated. Blazer guys complain about them all the time. Do a 350 instead, mwuahahah.

You know, lining the bottom of the frame with strips of UHMWPE wouldn't be a bad idea. I've been stuck on the frame a couple of times, mostly due to high friction factor.

Did the corroded wire get fixed or not? I think that's a good place to start, the MAF sensor will make it run like that if it's not plugged in and working.

I think your wax choke is sticking. That's the little solenoid/actuator looking thing on the front of the TBI with coolant hoses going in and out of it. When it sticks, the idle stays high for an abnormal length of time until the engine heats up and it finally manages to let the idle down. A new one is spendy, but you can remove the old one and try giving it a cleaning. A little bit of clear silicone grease inside the plunger shaft will help.

Google "Nissan Pathfinder snorkel".

Yep. Plug it all off and toss the box.