88pathoffroad

Yours is inside the radiator. All you need is hose, hose clamps, a cooler, cooler mounting kit and extra fluid to install one. It's fairly simple and straightforward. Place a catch pan under the radiator on the passenger's side. Remove the old cooler lines from the radiator(both hardline tubes on the passenger's side by the overflow bottle). Let the trans fluid drain out of the radiator and lines for a bit. Remove the fan from it's pulley but leave the pulley on the water pump so you don't have to retension the belt. After taking the fan off, put two nuts back on to make sure the pulley stays there. Slip/clamp hoses onto the cooler line ends(if the fittings slide back far enough) or just plain trim the flared end off the hardline and clamp the hoses on. Using a mounting kit, mount the new cooler on the back side of the radiator(I can't remember how much clearance there is between the fan and the rad, but I'm pretty sure it was plenty), route your hoses to it and clamp them on. Zip tie the hoses together and out of the way of any moving parts. Put the fan back on. Make sure everything is tight. Watching for leaks, start it, let it warm up and then check the fluid level. Add fluid to fill as necessary.

The shift solenoids are inside the trans on the pan side, so if you can get the pan off you can most likely replace the shift solenoids fairly easily. They're about $110 for all three from Nissan, IIRC. FSM info helps, just ask and ye shall recieve! Did you know the AT control computer has a testing mode with error codes just for the transmission? I think there's a post in the Garage/Tech section with the procedure.

Schweet, good job.

Jay, leaving quietly would have been the way to go...now it just looks like you're just trying to get attention. Just so you know.

They didn't get external coolers until 96, sorry.

30 pages done, 100 more to go...this is almost the entire EF & EC section of the factory service manual for 1988 that covers the V6 FI, ECU and wiring, all engine sensors, how they work, what makes what do what and all that. I will resize the full scans and zip them all up into a folder that I will post a link to.

Did noone notice the part where I said as far as I know, the 240SX diff does NOT FIT in a Pathfinder front diff? The output flanges are different, from what I remember. If you do get it, let us know though. I could be wrong.

Oi, old Geocities webpages! *cringe* I thought that was a cool trick when I first did it and there were no Nissan forums to visit, but....it's just....not as cool now. Heh.

Jay, whether you decide to leave or stay is your choice. I'm sorry not everyone can be as civil as we might like, but I've also had to bite my tongue before and not post anything at all on some of your posts. It just seems like I've seen the same questions asked many times before. Using the search function is a pain at times, but if you read some tips on doing searches you can do what you want fairly easily and quickly. I hope things go well for your rebuild, it's a very large project and I'm sure you'll end up with a really great Pathfinder that will be exactly the way you like it. Other than that, I believe this thread has run it's course. Goodnight.

Did he have the rear swaybar on still? Rami and I don't.

There are plenty of additional ways to boost power but most of them require in-depth engine work. Headers, cams, timing gears, a reprogrammed ECU, ported intake and heads, upgraded ignition components, free-flowing air filter, bigger exhaust......take your pick. Maybe you could name a few things you might consider buying or using and we can comment on them.

*busts out the scanner* Be prepared for FSM scans. This may take a bit.

You have to remove the tranny and t-case to replace the torque converter. It's spendy, but fair.

On mine and Rami's they dropped out and new springs went right in, no probs. Perhaps you guys weren't jacking it up enough?

Mine came loose once too. Gotta keep an eye on everything, heh.

Sweeeeet. I wish it were easier to bend the coil out like I've been doing, you'd get another half inch out of that 3/4 coil. As it sits, it takes me about 30-40 minutes per spring to heat and reshape those damn things. I get 'em nice and round, though.

RE4R01A? Just remember, the 4-cyl and the 6-cyl transmissions don't interchange.

Make sure the fusible links and battery cables are tight in their sockets and not corroded in half. I had a link break off on me once in a different car and that shut 'er down REAL quick.

Sounds like a shift solenoid is sticking or the wiring is not in perfect working order. I wouldn't give up on it just cause it shifts funny, it doesn't sound like it's dying.

Ideally you should have a winch with a capacity at least two times the weight of your vehicle. My Pathy weighs around 4300-4400 lbs loaded if I remember right. Most of the time though, an 8000 lb winch will get you out of any stuck you're in.

Woop, I forgot about that. Apologies.

If the water pump's spinning, it should be working. I've never heard of a impeller failure with no outward leakage. With the rad cap off and the engine cool, the rad should be at a constant level until the thermostat opens. After it warms up and opens, the coolant should flow through the radiator. Watch for this to happen with the cap off. That will at least let you know if it's circulating or not. I'd replace the temp gauge sending unit and see if the gauge calms down, it's a cheap part.

The switch itself could be broken internally and stuck in the "off" position.

Sounds like one of the solenoids is sticking in the "off" position. I wonder if they replaced the solenoids or just the friction parts inside...most shops don't.

With the hubs and all hardware off, the CV's will slide out of the spindles, yes.