ahardb0dy

I haven't done anything really, I'm trying to not put more weight than I have to on my knee right now, I just wanted to see what needed to be done. Yes, it's the KA24E and as Adam said it has a timing chain. I've read the guides were a problem on these engines and when the guides fail the timing chain can wear a hole into the timing cover and that can be one way oil and water can mix, of course it could be a head gasket issue as well. Two things the previous owner told me, 1. it was making noise since he bought it (in 2011) and 2. he noticed it was using water than he parked it and it wouldn't start after that. The radiator appears empty, no water visible, and the oil on the dipstick is very milky, Do you think I should drain the oil/water mix just to get whatever water is in the block out? I may check to see if it has spark this weekend, I did try to start it and I know this engine is an interference engine, the engine turns over fine, no noise or anything, it just doesn't sound right. I'm wondering if either the chain skipped a few teeth knocking the timing off but not enough for the valves to hit the pistons, or the chain failed and broke so cranking it is only turning the crank but not the cam? Guess won;t know until the front cover is removed. If the problem turns out to be timing chain related and no damage is done to the head or valves and I have it repaired, flushed and replace all the parts that were effected by the water/oil mix, the engine should be ok after that you think? Thanks.

So the hardbody I just bought has water in the oil, not sure yet if the timing chain wore a hole thru the timing cover or if it is a head gasket, so what steps need to be done after the problem is fixed? Is there any way to flush the block, well I know I can flush where the anti freeze goes and I can fill it with oil and run it than drain and repeat a few times. The radiator will need to be flushed good new plugs, thermostat and all the normal parts should be replaced I would think. I think the timing is off on this engine, it will crank but no indication that it is even trying to start, I replaced the plugs today with some I pulled out of something just to see if it would make a difference, it didn't. I did not check for spark yet, and I did not check to see if it's getting fuel to the rail yet. If I can find another engine I think it may be easier to swap it than to get this one back to working order, but haven't found any yet. Thanks

Was just comparing the pin numbers on the SMJ from the 90 gauge harness and a 95 and the same number pin had the same color wire on each of the two years I looked at and on both SMJ's the pins were in the same location,

I want to look into it when I my knee is better and I can go to the junkyard, for now, I can live with the square dash. I need to get a 93 service manual so I can compare the wiring, I have manuals from 89 & 90 than they skip to 94, should be the same but want to be sure.

your 94 does not use a cable, if you are asking about your truck, it is electronic

This is what I'm basing my "theory" on: 1990 FSM truck, instrument harness has square plug for the KA, rectangle for the VG 1994 FSM truck, instrument harness diagram showing different plugs for KA (square) and plug for VG (rectangle): So if the round dash 94 with the KA engine uses the square plug same as the 90 KA plug maybe it's possible to just swap the harness ???

I was looking into this as the truck I may be getting is a 93, no cruise to deal with so one less headache but from what I have been reading, one guy that did the swap said he was matching up the wires based on a guide someone else wrote than realized the wire colors were the same from the old harness to the round style harness, the one thing they say you have to do is to install the electronic speed sensor and run new wires from it to the back of the round gauge cluster. I have been looking into if it's possible to swap the whole instrument cluster harness from the SMJ ( Super Multiple Junction). I have noticed in the service manuals that the round dash trucks with the KA24E engine use one style plug at the SMJ while the V6 trucks use a totally different plug. I want to hit the junkyard when my knee gets better to investigate this further. I have read that some late built 93's had come with the round dash, if this is in fact true than I can not see Nissan making a whole new harness for the round cluster when they could have just made a new instrument cluster harness to work with the square dash SMJ to go to the newer style cluster. I found something similiar when I wanted to add the tach cluster into my sentra that did not have one, all the forums had lengthy write ups on how you get the new tach cluster and cut the plugs off so you can splice the plugs onto your existing harness, I happen to have discovered back than that Nissan had 2 harnesses for the two clusters, and seeing that, I pulled a tach cluster out of a car at the junkyard along with the harness, took 10 minutes, when I got home that morning, I removed my non tach cluster and harness, put the new harness in the car and plugged in the tach cluster, turned the key on, gauge cluster came on, started it, tach was working, the whole thing worked perfect, no cutting, no splicing, no figuring wires out. I'm hoping I can get lucky and swapping the harness from a KA24 truck with the round dash into a square dash truck will work. I haven't found any one who has tried this yet. Per the FSM, the KA24E gauge cluster harness plug from the round dash looks the same as the plug for the KA24E cluster in the square dash trucks.

Borla does make a dual in dual out

I like Borla, 2.25 pipe on the VG30, should be the same for the VG33.

The instructions I've seen with FAST they want you to copy it to a disc and use it that way, not sure if that's what they mean by saying "Mount the iso" I have all the different sections in a folder (A,B,CA,EL,GL,GR,IN) named "CD" , in one of the folders is a program named "NFSET" when run you go to the tab that says "CD Rom setup", there should be 7 "drives" listed, you click browse and select one section for each drive, than click "OK", also in the same folder where "NFSET" is found is the main program file "NF MENU", when you click "NF MENU" it opens fast and gives the option on what section you want to open, IN is infiniti, A is US, B is Japan, etc. The main menu also has a "parts manager" button where you can enter a part and cross reference what other vehicles use the part.

need video or it didn't happen

yup. so the FSM labeled for the 95 on the NICO site is actually for the 94 as I said.

I don't think this one was Lee's, I have a video of his and the TB as My1path said was hanging over on the pass side, don't know who's this is: This was Lee's:

Hack me a 93 truck manual from somewhere ( sorry skillfully browse I meant ! LOL)

That's why I save any manuals I come across, if the hosting site shuts down they would be lost and I will have them. Probably why I have diesel engine manuals for Nissan's that were never sold in the US with them !

Pick up some grease for the slide pins, I like a product called Sylglide but if they don't have it ask for brake caliper grease. Not the anti squeal stuff, it's a grease, You can also grease the areas where the pads sit in the torque member. When you tighten the caliper bolts, they don't have to be monster tight, I will tighten them by hand than put a wrench on the head of the bolt and give it one whack with my hand, that's good enough.

does looking at old pictures of it count?

may not need a radiator, wouldn't hurt to replace it being a 90 but, when my old 94 was running hot, not real hot but above or near half, I replaced the fan clutch and it never went near half again, that was driving mid summer in too hot Florida.

Wouldn't happen to have a 93 manual around would you? For the Hardbody?

I have the FSM engine (only) section for a ZD30DD, no idea if it is the same as your engine, send your e-mail to me in a PM and I can send you what I have. No idea where I got it from, lol but I have it

You didn't look hard enough, nice thing about the newer FSM's, they let you click on the links and the appropriate section will open (usually) if not the link will at least tell you what section to look in, in this case, looking at the 2001.5 FSM in the EL (Electrical) section, links over to the RS (Restraint) section for removal instructions, so to make it a little easy for you link below, page 19, (start on page 17 for airbag removal procedure): http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2001.5_Pathfinder/rs.pdf Your Welcome ! LOL

looks like it per Nissan FAST, part indicated in green:

I have the 95 supplement as a PDF also on my computer. The 95 FSM under the forward section says it was printed in 1993, also says " See supplement manual for updated information and revised wiring diagrams" if you scroll to the next page it says "This manual contains maintenance and repair procedures for the the 94 Nissan Truck and Pathfinder" The 1994 FSM says the exact same thing ( the FSM's on the Nico site) The 1995 supplement (Printed in 1994) says "This service manual contains the new service procedures, service data and specifications for the 1995 Nissan Truck and Pathfinder D21 series" and also " This service manual does not contain the service procedures, etc which are the same as those for the 1994 model, Please use this manual in conjunction with the 1994 Nissan Truck and Pathfinder, model D21 series service manual" So I guess some where along the lines when the FSM's were uploaded to NICO the 94 FSM got uploaded twice once as the 94 FSM and once as the 95 FSM. reading what I just wrote suggests to me there was not an actual 95 FSM just the supplement to the 94 FSM.

look at it at night without the water first, if it's arching that bad where you can hear it, probably won't need any water.

just try to center the speaker and get the new screw holes as far away from the edge of the opening, you can see in my pic above where the screw holes are and how one of them is very close to the edge, if the speaker you are going to use is too deep you can use a spacer behind it, nice thing about the pathfinder door panels, that you don't see the speaker at all ( compared to say the hardbody's with the flat door panels),