Northernpathy

If you buy a hardbody with the king cab, it has the jump seats in the extended cab for kids to sit on. Also, if the truck is going to be off-road only, you can likely pick up a hardbody that won't pass a safety check for cheap. I can buy tons of them up here for less than $1k. If you still want to go with modifying a pathy with a flat-bed on it, you will just have to be the guinea pig and be the first one to do it. Someone has to do it, might as well be you. I converted an M109A3 deuce truck into a camper before most people had really done it. I learned a lot, and it was a lot of fun. Now everyone asks me how I did it For instance, I really like what this guy has done to his hardbody with the flat-bed box he built for it. Looking at doing something the same with my truck in the future. Someone has to be the first to do it.

Probably too expensive to do, but it would be sweet to bring your grill to a plastics place so that they can make a mold of it and reproduce it. I am sure a lot of people would buy it. I sure as hell know I would

I have to admit that I have never seen that style of hardbody grill with the inner lights either. I have spent many hours looking online at pictures of hardbody's and never seen one. Special order one from Nissan back in the day?

Ah, I was looking for that thread and couldn't find it for some reason, even though I had seen it recently, so I created this one. Yeah just merge them together. Would be better!

Evaporator core was full of it, and it took a lot of vacuuming from the shop vac to get it cleared out. Pulled out the blower while I was at it. Didn't have much in it, but was still worth pulling it out so that it was clean. Now with all that clean, and the melted plastic fumes making me dizzy, I now had to look at fixing the blower box. Fire had made a nice hole in it. After cutting off the melted plastic on the outside, I got a piece of aluminum and cut it to size. I then used high temperature sealant and some self-tapping screws to hold it in place. Ready for re-install. Have left the truck sitting with the windows open for a few days to try and air it out. Still stinks, but not as bad. I have to bring some febreeze or something to shoot in the truck to try and get rid of the smell. Also have to spray it in the blower box or else I will get the smell every time I start up the truck. Lesson here: CLEAN YOUR BLOWER BOX OR YOUR TRUCK WILL CATCH FIRE. I was VERY LUCKY the truck didn't completely catch fire. Could have also been really bad if it had happened while I was driving on the road and the cab filled with smoke. The truck had always heated up very well, and I didn't have any problems with not enough heat. So I never thought it had that much crap in there. It only takes 5 minutes to check. Just pull off the glove compartment door and undo the two screws on the sensor so that it pops out and you can see inside.

I thought I would copy/paste this here from my truck thread so that it will maybe help others from having the same problem. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well an interesting day to say the least. Truck caught fire this morning. Was great fun to see white smoke coming out of the cab and the smell of burning plastic in the air Had started it up and let the heater run as it was below freezing, and I wanted it to defrost before bringing it into the shop to work on it. Guess you can say it is a pretty hot truck now. After starting the truck, I went inside the shop to do other things while I waited for it to warm up. Well 15mins later I decided to go outside and bring the truck in. When I got outside I saw that the truck windows seemed to still be white and covered in frost. At first I thought I somehow had put the air controls on cold instead of hot. But when I got closer I could see that the windows had defrosted and that little wisps of smoke were coming from the doors. Ran over, opened the door and the white smoke poured out of the cab. I turned off the truck and opened both doors so that I could see what was making the smoke. Inside of the truck was covered in ash, but there was a ton of it in front of the passengers seat. Once the smoke cleared, I looked closer and found there was now a hole melted through the blower box. I pulled the glove compartment door off to get a better look. Looked inside and using my finger I pulled out some smoldering embers. Behind it I found the problem. Brought the truck inside and started by cleaning the ash from the cab. The truck absolutely reeks of melted plastic inside. Then I went and unscrewed the temp resistor from the front of the box and found that there was a @!*% load of leaves and pine needles inside. Pulled the box open. Which is a pain in the ass, as there are little metal clips holding it together and some are located on the back of the box by the firewall. How in the hell are you suppose to get those clips when they are against the firewall? Lot of crap inside.

I believe the compass is built into the display, so you do not need an extra hook-up for that (power wire from the lights will power it), but the temp will not work as I doubt they ran the wiring for that up to the headliner.

Would be very cheap (like $40) as I have never used it since I got the truck. But it is pretty big and you are pretty far away, so shipping would likely be too expensive (probably around $100 due to the size and distance) to make it worth the trouble. But let me know if you are still interested and I can check.

Sorry to hear about that. Though I am glad you are okay. Hard to say what the insurance company will say. Repairing a '98 might not be worth it for them sadly. While the rest of the truck is still in good condition, just the replacing two doors, two tires, repaint, etc, might cost them more then it is worth. I have seen a lot of brand new cars scrapped for around the same amount of damage. Guess you will just have to wait and see.

I have mine which I do not use. Is black and like brand new. Would help if you stated in your profile where you are located

Do you need the entire guard, or just the part to cover the space between the guard and the frame? 4x4parts sells some liners to cover the space if that is all you need: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/body-lifts-body-lift-liners-c-117_116.html

Glad to hear that everyone walked away. But it is too bad that the pathy was badly damaged. It looks totaled to me as well. Worth more than the truck is worth to rebuild the front end and anything else that is damaged. I am sure you will be happy with your new R50. The 3.5VQ has a lot of zoom to it and runs really well. Only thing I would really recommend is getting some manual locking hubs for the front end to save you some fuel and wear/tear on the front end. I look forward to seeing the upgrades installed!

Yeah if you find one in the US or Canada and they company will not ship it to you, let us know and we should be able to pick it up and ship it off to you. I know how hard it is to get parts some times. Many companies in the US will not ship to Canada even though we are right next to them. Maybe you should start a thread in the Members Rides section to post any info on your progress when you do. Good luck!

Same here. I have it connected to my aux battery for power. Here it is connected to my air tank to power some of my air tools. Comes in pretty handy.

Welcome. Nice truck. I am sure you will be able to locate the parts to do the upgrade

Welcome. Nice truck. I like the exterior blacked out look.

Man is that ever clean inside. Hell it might be the base model, but as long as it gets you around and you like it, why the hell not? I am sure it will still make a good escape vehicle when the zombie apocalypse hits

I use generic brand 5W30 synthetic in mine and it runs well. I have over 160K miles. Don't bother with the super expensive brand name synthetic brands. The cheapo Walmart/whatever synthetic brand will do great. There is very little difference between synthetic brands except for the price. And any synthetic is better than the most expensive dinosaur oil.

Passenger side on center console. Works well, as I can quickly access it when needed, and it is not really in the way if I have a passenger.

On my R50, I attached my rear bumper to the same place that the hitch connected to. Though I went a step further. The stock hitch setup bolted into threaded holes in the sides of the frame. I drilled out those holes and through the other side. Then I got some long grade 8 bolts and bolted it up through the frame with plates on the other side for added support. It was a real pain in the butt to get the top bolt through (very little room up there), but it was worth the effort. It isn't going anywhere.

I took a quick look online but couldn't find anything. Here are the service manuals for the R20 series. Not exactly the same, but it does seem to have the same type of switch. Look in the "el.pdf" file: http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/ Might help you figure out how to wire something up.

Here is the post on his new headlights: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20808&view=findpost&p=517471 Sorry but I don't know where you can get the part number. I only have access to the parts catalog for our R50's.

I hate you. $150 for a pathy is no good, unless I am getting the deal! Welcome anyways!

What year/type of truck does it come off of? Doesn't seem to be an R50. As most all R50's I've seen have a roller style headlight adjustment.

Looks good! But would look better with a bit of mud on it!