Northernpathy

Yeah I probably should go get it flushed out to see if that helps. But I have talked to 3 other R50 owners and they all said the same thing. On a hot day if they have the A/C on and are going slow, the truck temp climbs high very quickly and goes all the way up to "H". Did you remove the original shroud and clutch fan on the truck? Also, did you mount the fans on the inside (pulling air), or on the outside (pushing air)?

I know more than a few people with the WD21's have installed electric fans to either help the clutch fans cool things down or replace them all together as the main cooling fan. But I was wondering if anyone with an R50 has installed one? My R50 stays pretty cool most of the time, except when you have the A/C on and are either stuck in traffic or driving slowly down the trail. I have stopped the truck on the trail in the middle of the summer to get out and look at something or help someone only to get back into the truck and have the needle at max on the engine temp gauge. It has also happened in traffic a few times. It doesn't take long for the truck to start over-heating with the A/C on and driving slowly. I have heard the same from other R50 owners. And yes I love having A/C as I have a lot of fat to keep cool So after doing a search and not coming up with anything, has anyone here with an R50 installed an electric fan on their truck?

If you don't buy some at RR, go to Canadian Tire and order a set. They sell them at the parts counter. You will just have to wait a few days to get it.

If T.B was closer, I would come up to give you a hand in person. And at the same time also pick up a hardbody or two that is for sale for cheap up there Yeah it sounds like a slow leak somewhere. Maybe you could borrow a neighbors car shelter for a couple hours so that you can crawl under the truck to see if anything is leaking underneath the truck? Wouldn't be super warm, but it would at least keep the wind at bay.

Another problem you will have is getting the wire with the plug on the end out of the cab. The hole and grommet sit way up near the top of the dash. Even after pulling out the heater blower it was very hard to reach that area. At that point (an hour of trying to pull it out safely) I just said to hell with it, cut the cable and installed the new antenna under the dash. Replacing the antenna is really not something Nissan planned out.

In my 88 hardbody, there was a connection but it is in the dash behind the glove compartment. So to truly unplug it, you have to pull the wiring out from under the dash, then through the body out by the fender. You have to pull the fender off to actually access the place where the wiring goes into the cab. Was a huge pain when I did it to replace the fenders on the hardbody. I ended up cutting the wire and installing a new antenna that I bought at the store that just sits zip-tied under the dash. I put the antenna back on the fender after repainting the truck, but it is more for decoration to cover up the hole. The antenna under the dash gets excellent reception.

Bigger filter would only be really useful if you plan on stretching out the time between oil changes or do a lot of mileage with your truck. All the filters we use are very standard. I have find them on the shelf at places like CT and NAPA always has a couple in stock. They aren't very special. Even the oil filter on the 88 hardbody was in stock at NAPA. The 3.3L and 3.5L engines were used in so many Nissan vehicles that they are very common filters. I don't see how the threads could get messed up by removing the plate a lot. Even if you don't have a metal skid plate, the truck comes with a plastic skid plate that needs to be removed each time as well. It bolts into the same place as where the new metal skid plates bolt up to. So even if you brought it into Nissan to get an oil change every time, they would have just as much chance of stripping the threads which I doubt happens very often. Though yes, I can see that point. I didn't strip a thread, but I did break a bolt off inside one of the mounting holes and had to drill a new hole in the plate for the next hole over. It had rusted solid and after putting a little too much pressure on the bolt, it snapped off. I had posted a link in another thread to someone on another Nissan board with a 3.5L in a Maxima who had found a commercially available kit that fit and worked. Would search for it but I am lazy.

One thing I would like to know is how to stop the motorized antenna from coming up when you turn on the radio. There is no fuse or relay that I can find to stop it. One person said the only way is to cut the power wire to the motor and install a switch in-line to stop it I would like to be able to stop it from going up when on the trail so it doesn't get banged up and bend by branches. I can turn off the radio to keep it down, but I would still like to listen to the radio while on a long trip on the trails

I have heard of it mentioned as a booster antenna as well. You don't really need your motorized antenna working (going up and down) for it to pick up stations, but it does help. Though with the weather we are having in Ottawa right now, the antenna does get frozen in place a lot (either up or down). I don't listen to local radio either. Only thing I use the radio for is picking up my FM transmitter for my satellite radio or ipod. When you get sat radio, listening to regular local radio will drive you insane. Is nice to listen to the radio without commercials (except for a few specialty channels on sat radio) and also be able to listen to your favorite channels anywhere in North America.

I know hell just froze over by saying this........but I have to agree with 01silvapathy Even with a skid plate installed, it takes like 10-15 minutes max to remove the plate, replace the filter, then put the plate back.

Never seen someone rip out the entire dash just for radio wiring before. But I guess this way you will be able to clean everything up really well while you are at it! Keep it up. Looking good.

You generally have to find a place that specalizes in selling metal. Getting metal from smaller shops or stores is usually much more expensive because they bought it from the big metal place then added transport, taxes, labor, then 10%+ profit. If you only need one piece of metal here and there, the small shops maybe worth it, but if you need a lot more metal, find the local metal store. I get mine from a metal-only shop. You can buy huge I-beams for making buildings or small 0.5"x0.5" square tubing from them. They will also let you go into the back to look at all the sizes to make sure you find what works for you. Last time I was there, I bought the steel tube for the snorkel. I said I wanted 3" pipe and he told me what he had. I went in the back and looked anyways and found a slightly smaller diameter pipe 2.9" and asked the price. Since it was an odd size that they rarely sold, I got it for half the price of the larger size and 6 feet only cost me $18+tax. Try looking in the yellow-pages for a metal place. You might not have one locally and will have to go to the next town over to get some.

I accidentally clicked on the wrong link in my favorites and it brought me to the KMA website. But before I clicked away from the website I noticed that they are changing things up. KMA is now calling themselves "Tactical Armor Group" or just "TAG". Old site: http://www.kenmtnac.com/ They also have a new website were they say you will soon be able to order online: http://www.tacticalarmorgroup.com/ Though I wouldn't try to order through their new website just yet as they state it is not ready yet. I wonder if they changed named due to a lot of negative reviews they had due to some very long wait times for orders? Not that I need a bumper, but it will be interesting to see if this name and website change will be for the better.

There are a few people here with R51's, but like nunya stated, they are not in as high a number as the guys with the WD21's and the cooler R50 guys There are also not a whole lot of upgrades available for the R51's, much like the R50's. So you might consider that when looking at getting one.

What size tire are you running? I have 31's and have no rubbing in the fenders or when I had the fender flares on.

Well if you are a big gear head and really like to constantly tune/adjust your engine in new/different ways, then maybe the 350 is the way to go. But the 3.5L has a lot of zoom and power in it with pretty much nothing else needed. I have the power to get down pretty much any trail, as well as able to smoke little ricers off the line In the end it all depends on how much money you want to dump into it. While you might have a nice engine it in, the truck is still 13+ years old. Unless you intend to keep it for a long time, you likely won't get anywhere near the money you put in it. Is like the people who rip out the stock stereo in a car and put $2000 in a new radio, speakers, subs, etc. Yet when they go to sell the car they realize that they can't get anywhere near that $2000 back, and if they are luckily they might get $500 more for the car because of the upgraded system.

Not worth it IMHO. If you want the zoom factor, either buy a second gen R50 truck, or swap a 3.5L engine from second gen R50 into your truck. Will be a lot easier then trying to retro fit the other engine and tranny into your rig. Would likely also be cheaper than rebuilding your engine with those high performance parts.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28988

More than a few threads on automatic hubs. Here are a two that turned up when I used the search function and typed in "automatic hubs" http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26851 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28829&view=findpost&p=550136 (starting on that post) Only real good thing about automatic hubs is that they save you time, as you don't have to get out and turn them on/off like you do for manual hubs. But that is about it. Do a search on google and the main opinion is that they work, but will generally let you down when you really need them, and are no where as strong as manual hubs. Some people who have wheeled with them for years, so they really know how well they act, but you really have to think when using them or else you will be spinning tires a lot with unlocked hubs. If you read in the threads there were several posts on how they work and how you can very easily "unlock" them when you don't want to. If you decide to go with the autos, please make sure to post about it after using them for a while. Would be interested to see how they fare for you.

Maybe that is a good thing

Either buy a new complete starter, get a rebuilt unit or at the very least a good pull-off unit. Not worth trying to repair the starter yourself unless you are really hard up on money.

I installed the lift from 4x4parts on my pathy and use the stock Nissan rims and 31" tires without a problem. I have about an inch between the tire wall and the strut.

Same here. After 2 months I have to reset it back 2-3mins. Which is pretty sad, as the clock in the instrument cluster on my 1988 Hardbody keeps perfect time

He would have driven away the second he saw you get out of your truck!

Well if you find the decal I would be willing to buy it off you even if you just have the one. It would be easier to bring it to the sign shop so that they can reproduce it rather than from the pictures. I have the Nissan font, so they should be able to put 1+1 together and reproduce them pretty easily I love your old truck. I saved the pictures of it and want to make mine look similar. I was looking online last night for the moon-visor/sun-visor for the windshield