skulptr

looks like i dont get to go, yet again

i strongly press staying away from the 3 inch piping. you will get alot of crackling, and loss in back pressure, taking away from your acceleration and fuel economy. it will make the ricer sound louder. stick to 2.25 all the way out.

nickj with the water over the hood (and open front windows) gets my vote, sorry guys, but i can't vote for someone that, yeah, i wont finish my sentence due to possible banning.

depends how bad your bolts are. take a 10mm wrench out there and see what happens.

33x10.5 if you have the right wheels or spacing. i have fit 33x12.5 with no lift and no rubbing.

which fuse box did you check?

why do you need to get the turn signal switch out? and the defrost switch just screws into the back of the trim

yes i did. i rechecked the ecu, all codes are gone except P0505 IAC valve. now to fix the emissions status. have cat, o2, and egr flashing. i believe washington state only allows 2 emission system to have a non-readiness status.

banned for havin pezzy in your sig (butt kisser!)

i am jealous! my kid was wheelin for npora while in the womb. can't wait to get him some swag too!

man if only you had taken it from the fender side! those 2 vacuum lines that are under that plug are my culprits, just gotta figure out where they go. i'm gonna take the vcuum map adam posted and see if i can make heads or tails of what i'm looking at. with everything having a solid mud color, its kinda hard to follow is it wierd that i always seem to have the dirtiest engine bay compared to everyone else i know?

banned for moving!

banned you smell like @!*%!

banned for never visiting washington, and not realizing jsut how much sun we get! on MY side of the mountains, A/C is pretty much required past april here. spokane has only 2 seasons, summer, and winter.

you have to actually unbolt the light from the bumper, i tried doin mine, and just ended up snapping the bolt because it was rusted up.

thats interesting thanks adam i pulled the codes, no more knock sensor code (OMG!) but i still have code 505 hanging around, and now i have 1105 MAP/BARO switch selenoid valve. going to try to fix up the egr, and hope i can get it to pass emissions. when the system readiness pops up on the reader, it shows yellow, and flashes the cat, o2, and egr systems... i believe for washignton state only 2 systems are allowed to be on the fail in order to pass

so my buddy's 96 has some charcoal canister where i have these vaccuum lines. i was wondering if someone can take a very large and detailed picture of this exact spot. i think my vaccuum lines here are messed up, and i'm hoping to revise the issue. this is on the vg just left of the airbox.

banned, steady pace wins the race

lucky bastage!

banned for not having a sig and dont be hatin just cause you aint got snow

well got my gift from b today, a $50 visa gift card. he left a note sayin he had no idea what to get me with everything goin on, but made a "cash" donation to my cause. idk what 50 is gonna get me, but another tank of gas to survive another day for now! thank you b! it was perfectly timed!

i want to see this alternator setup too. no one here is going to drive anywhere to steal an alternator. but hey, one 300 amp alternator would be nice, but i would never use that much power. with my subs, ontop of a storage box, i can still see out my back window either of your setups, if you had them here, you'd get pulled over 12 times a day just for lack of vision out the rear window lol btw, what springs are you running in the rear to hold up that weight? my rear sags under my tools and subs, and an empty tank of gas.

ok so i got the knock sensor changed (wish i would never have to do that again), and the knock sensor code remains. the o2 sensor code is gone though, and its shifting smoother. i also changed out the idle air control system, and its still messed up. the idle is finaly good though, about 700 in gear. the old one i pulled off, the idle set screw was fully open! its no wonder i couldnt move it anymore. now, at random, when i park, the idle will go up to 1400 (hot). i think i have the vaccuum lines below the intake tube reversed somehow. one of those little ones does connect to the idle air control. i hope someone can post a picture of them so i can make sure i'm right. i will post a picture this afternoon of the ones i am referring too. so now that this is all done, i went from having 3 error codes, to having 5. the knock sensor, idle air control malfunction, idle air control failure, random misfire, and something else to do with misfire. i know the misfire one is from the coolant that got into the #5 cylinder when i pulled the lower intake manifold off. i dried up what i could with a rag, but i could only reach oh so far into the head. it ran rough for a minute, while pushing the water out, now she's running strong, and smoother. but it seems like she's absolutely guzzling gas now. i used an 8th tank driving only 40 miles. i will fill it up again this afternoon to see just how much gas i used. i unplugged the battery for the night last night to clear the ecu again, and see what happens with that. since autozone can't legally erase the ecu codes, and no other stores in town have an obdII reader for use in the parking lot. the job took me about 9 hours in total, and i'm going to be extremely upset if i have to do it again. i do not like taking the intake off, since there is absolutely no easy way to get to the cooling lines on the back of the plenum

banned for staying up til midnight, waiting on santa!

Nope nothin yet. But my gift still hasn't arrived to my santee yet either