skulptr

barely even consider on roading

that... would.... be... and incredible... gift :coffee!:

well i'm started in on the bear of a job getting to the knock sensor, and i'm gonna try to tackle the idle control while i'm down there. with the intake off i'm hoping its easier to reach. its a PITA to even see it with the intake on and i thought AAC was actuated air control valve

in the mean time, throw it on the roof with a ratchet strap, redneck style! ps, the dual out is exactly why i built my rear carrier! check for my build thread!

banned cause i feel like it :coffee!:

get a new clip or a rebuild kit for the clip. my cousin has a cheapo walmart one like that and it has bad seals in it, so the moment you break the co2 seal, it all runs out. course, the ultimate solution would be, dont get something walmart....

ok so i just got another from the JY, and tips on getting the one off the rig.... the one i got came off a motor on a crate, so it was alot easier that way.

doesnt matter, the weight of that rig coming down on anything, basically triple the weight of the rig in one point, will sever that thing clean so what all do you have going on in your rig? i am very interested to see now...

i must say i like it. can you get some pictures of the pipes running back underneath, and the muffler.?

careful when you go offroad, pinch that sucker off on a piece of wood or a rock in a heartbeat. i've hit that section hard more times than i care to count. but good space use

97 vg33

ok so according to my haynes manual, i can take just the valve itself off to check for sticking and siezure. looking at pictures online or the assembly, i'm not too sure about taking it off of its assembly, due to possibly screwing it up. can anybody provide any insight on this? it seems i can only buy the assembly as a whole, and not just the valve itself. the valve in this picture is the gold piece on the left with the brown plug. it only has 2 philips screws holding it in. and this is the engine side of it. that spring right there makes me iffy to disassemble it

the reason they want you to use the passenger side tow hoook is this, it has an extra bolt for one for added strength, and 2 if your being pulled out and the chain or strap breaks, it doesnt come through the windshield right where you are sitting. if you were to be pulling from the drivers hook you'd be dead meat with a flying chain. i had a tow strap break once, and it went right into my passenger headlight. just an example. you can't really tweak the rig pulling someone out. i have a d-ring shackle adaptor in my hitch, 2 d-ring shackles welded to my front bumper, and plan to weld 2 to my rear steel bumper. but i have put more strain on that front hook, and the rear hitch. i pulled mr jim out at the jim run with the front hook. and in this most recent snow, i was pulling cars up 20ft and deeper enbankments with both the front and rear hooks.

i got them from orielly's, but napa i think carries them too. their just exhaust reducing adaptors. i think i paid 3 bucks each, and i had to get 4, 2 for each input since they didnt have one that went from our size straight to the 2.5 size. here's an example of what they look like. you may have to do some tinkering around until you find ones that fit. like i said up in another post, it took a few stores to get all of them since nobody had enough of the same one at just one store.

well daym maybe i should have put an odbII reader in my list for secret santa lol, probably would have used that more than anything

just do this, what ever you decide on, google the part number for your shopping. i bought mine half price new with free shipping. and it showed up within 3 days

ok so i will get video of mine once this blizzard passes, right now its about 25ft visibility. i bought a flowmaster super 40 for a couple reasons, its a smaller unit than the super 50, has less crackling, and was cheaper lol. it is dual in/out 2.5" i chose flowmaster over magnaflow because magnafow uses fiberglass packs, which wear out over time, and if you have an oil burning rig like mine, they wear out fast. flowmater uses resonating chambers, all steel, no fiberglass, also making it lighter in weight. and i have a 3.3, so the sound will be a little different, but not by a whole lot. here's 2 vids, one with the 3.5 with a super 40 like mine, and another with the 3.5 with the magnaflow you were looking at. they are both on a qx4 in this. my video will be higher quality than these. it seems like these guys can afford custom exhausts but only a cell phone for recording video.

ok so it came back with 3 obdII errors knock sensor o2 sensor, bank 2, sensor 1 (drivers side upstream) and a p0505 error, idle air control system fail the knock sensor one and o2 sensor is easy. i have another one off the spare engine, it's just gonna be a PITA to replace. there has to be an easier way.... now the idle air control has me stumped. i had autozone pull up the image of the idle air control module, and unbolting the one on my rig looks like its just about impossible to do with the engine in. basically just looking for some advice on what to do with this. also since i replaced the throttle body, this iac error has been here, plus it has some hard starts, and it makes some wierd vaccuum noise when it does start. and if someone has found a way to replace the knock sensor, cause i'm hoping it will fix the knock sensor issue

i hope so, my alternator isnt even keeping up with my heater and headlights anymore. when i come to a stop, in gear, everything comes down at least half power.

banned cause that emoticon is more than he's gotten in real life... :new576: :new576:

yeah have the heat on while heating, because it opens up the valve to the heater core. meaning it could have alot of air in it. course it sounds like you may have a blockage somewhere.

and the stock exhaust diameter is stupid, 1 11/16" OD if i remember correctly, with is a PITA to match. it took 4 stores to get all the adapters to fit the flowmaster to the stock piping. if i had bought the 2.25 version it would have been easier. i also shopped around for my muffler. i found what i wanted on the flowmaster site, then googled the part number and found one online somewhere else new for half the price with free shipping.

sounds like you might have a small leak somewhere, plus your thermostat is shot. if you open the raditor cap, and feel pressure, the pump is running just fine. get that thermostat changed, check all your connections, let it sit and run up to normal temp. release the pressure from the system, start the truck back up with the cap off and let it circulate with the cap off to push what ever air is left. course, thats all optional, depends on your level of bravery with coolant.

i have the flowmaster with dual 2.5 in/out. was quite a trick to get adapters to make them fit my stock piping. but it sounds freakin awesome. was the loudest truck at the jim run. i dont have any noticable loss of power, nor change in mileage. and the growl is awesome when going. can barely notice it when its just idling. i can take a video of it tomorrow and post it so you have an idea.. i also havent had the piping finished, so the muffler ends under the truck right now. the sound will change once i get it finished, but no shop will touch it right now for less than 500, which is bs. silverpath changed his system out with a close to oem replacement. look for his build thread in the member's rides section. let me know if you want to hear what mine sounds like.

building one is the most cost effective, but is limited by tools and skills. i built mine for free, and is bigger and stronger than anything the market offers. my roof will actually give way before the basket would.