skulptr

mine had been acting up, and had a cel code come up for the engine coolant temp sensor. i replaced both my sensor and sender, about 30 bucks total, no problems since. one thing to note, if the sensor goes bad, it screws with your emissions. if the sender goes bad, your gauge goes wonky.

this is just the rear though, with the push button switch under the stereo

hey if i get my tax return in time, we may try to go. i guess it depends on the amount. i've already started filing, just gotta pick up my w2 in 3 weeks, then i'll know lol

i dont know whats happening with it. i was outside walking around the pathy, next thing i know my rear wiper starts running at full speed. switch is off. it will slow down if i put the switch in the low position, but thats it, any other position and it runs full time. i had to pull the fuse to get it to stop. has anyone else heard this? or is this just my bad luck gremlin cause we signed an apartment lease today and cant afford to fix one more damn thing on this stupid truck

hey now, rulez 1a!

unless he welds along the entire pinch seam, it would be no different.

i've seen someone on here, very recently, just cut out the rusted section, and welded in a flat sheet and bent it to match(ish) to make it work

some of us americans are the brunt side of that. like i was sued by a drug addict, and guess what, he won. what great americanism, right? maybe i should just come to where the bacon is cheap, and the legal system will just leave me alone!

dont necessarily need them. mine is plastic potty piping. i was just using them as an example. my fab skills royally suck, but for the cost difference, i was willing to try it, since a new fender painted plus everything else, was still less on the wallet. but it was just a suggestion, its not like i got him wrapped around my pinky or anything

ok so based on nunya's ruling, i will post a second nomination silverton

or you could be like me and northern, and just build one. i think i spent 15 bucks on mine, and i dont know what northerns tally is up to.

yeah i'd just be concerned about that pinch seam is all. the "frame rail" not so much

i think the only way OSR is going to take any damage is if he hits something at an angle where anything above the bumper line meets first

o trust me theres alot more room behind it than it looks. plus, thats 1/4" steel, its freakin heavy. takes 2 people to put it on. it used to have a winch tray on it as that was my original plan, but abandoned it when i finally understood why wheeling by yourself is a big mistake to make anyways i also have the westin bully bar out front too. that takes most of what i push on. i only have the bully bar on for the rubber coated bars, cause i push cars more than i pull them. i have also rammed many many things, both before and after the bully bar, and nothing is changed, except what i have rammed lol

the only attachment to the frame is the very ends of it, and the rest rely's on the pinch seam??? i would definetly be gettign my jack out and putting a massive stress test on that before welding it all together. just by the description and pics, i'd rip those off on my first run well i guess they are offering a lifetime warranty on them, but that doesnt cover damage to the truck, just the sliders...

would be interesting to get a carfax back on my rig, see where shes been all though, carfax is not a complete report, you must know that. not everything that happens to a vehicle is reported, and isnt a solid base of information. my last car was totalled, and had the roof replaced from 3 inches above the door. carfax came back clean on it when i bought it. a year later stress cracks and rust started showing through the paint. took the interior covers off, and found the cars white color, a big nasty weld mess, then maroon metal the rest of the way up, on all 6 pillars. did a little more research on the car, found out it had been slid into a pole and it came down and crushed the roof in. guess this is just a warning to do more research than just relying on a carfax report alone. inspect the rig extremely throughly, exhaust, pillers, paint changes, anything that might give off a signal of any kind to you.

skulptr (i wish this came out better, but my camera sucks at night, maybe i'll end up changing my nomination soon)

mine doesnt always come out when i'm rolling either, but i've never had to stop to get it to disengage. a trick i've learned is when its switched back to 2 hi, is i'll give the gas a good hard bump while i'm going (usually around 25) then completely let go, so the rpms basically drop back to idle. 95% of the time it will disengage. i would give that linkage a good once over, maybe take a flashlight and camera under there with you so you can post them here, and we'll see if we can find out whats goin on.

you wanna see shot suspension, i'll get pics of my springs. they are FULLY compressed when no one is even in it lol.

you should get your rig to full flex with the passenger tire tucked, so we can see how much clearance that lower pipe has

you should get your rig to full flex with the passenger tire tucked, so we can see how much clearance that lower pipe has

mine isnt quite complete, but i'll throw it up anyway. nasty, no skid, splits where i made repairs pretty, skid, welded my repairs, new paint

wtf is a drift? lol and your welcome. from one r50 owner to anther, i figured it would come in handy. now to get one for myself

then explain the crackling and loss of power and 3 mpg drop i had when i ran straight pipe.

looks like i'm out of any wheeling trip you guys put together. i hate being the only one that has to shell out hundreds of dollars just to have fun for a few hours, it sucks. with the rate my job is going, i'm going to end up losing the pathy to repo anyway.