skulptr

still drivable, jsut take the belt off lol

do you have emissions there? i know if i were to do that swap here, my rig would become a trailer queen since its all odbII readings. i dont know how i would go about getting it relicensed every year have you looked into the vh45 swap? there's one in progress in the hardcore swap section, though not much progress has been made on it in a while

i hope you painted or protected around that metal you just cut to prevent rusting! cant wait to see these workin!

you dont not using anything oem. if you want drl's, your going to have to install your own relay's, tap into an ignition only powered source, and run all your own wires. if you would have searched, you would have learned time and time again (in the last 48 hours it has been discussed) that the drl's are high beam at half power. so, good luck... going through canada with us plates, you dont need drl's. but if your picky, turn your headlights on.

there is a difference between the 90-95 hubs and the 96-04 hubs. they will fit yours. and with your sayin of how you will use them, for the money, i'd go with the mile markers since you dont do any hard offroading. i beat the crap out of my mile markers on our annual meet up here, and seem to be the only one to do so without busting them. so regular every day use, you'd be just fine. i bought mine from 4x4parts.com, nothing but nissan parts! https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/drive-train-manual-locking-hubs-c-165_312.html heres the ones i bought https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/mile-marker-manual-locking-hubs-p-243.html

yep manual hubs are a go for you, as long as you dont have the auto option. even if you did have the auto system, you'd have 2 options. leave the front hubs locked when in auto, or keep it in 2wd and unlock the hubs as a side note, there are 2 sets of hubs available for us. mile markers and warns. mile markers are 100, warns 200. so its a matter of if you have the money do what you want. i bought the mile markers because my wallet is pinched really tight. and i havent had a single problem with them.

nope! get your windex, wash a mirror or something

some times there are a few systems tied into each other via different fuses. check em all, just to be safe.

auto tranny coolers in the radiator are stock to any vehicle for the past 25+ years....

filled the tank, thinkin the drivers front wheel bearings are finished (feels like tire rubbing at low speed up to 15 or so, then goes away, i have no tire rubbing...) rolled over 183000mi yesterday..

hitting both may or may not do anything, as both can possibly stick. i personally have had no luck with the hit and make it work theory. crawl underneath, and you'll find this attached to the bellhousing where the engine and transmission meet. the gold piece is the selenoid.

i put 33x12.5 on mine with no lift and 3.75 bs, so with 31s you should be fine stock.

yeah he only put spacers in the front because he used 33s. before the 33s he was fine

you can pretty much use what ever rims you want with it. 01silva used stock rims with his suspension lift and much larger tires than that.

found that 2 bolts in my manual hubs were missing, 2 fell out but were rattling around in the center cap, and the other 2 were still threaded in but not very much. got the 2 new bolts ad 4 new lock washers for 3 bucks and got er all fixed up. and tightened the power steering belt.

now all you need is manual hubs and paint the center of the rear wheel hubs black to match

and how, might i ask, did you find that!

bumpers easy too make, but you need to chose your mounts carefully. the stock bumper mount is not nearly strong enough to hold the bumpers weight, but i put 2 blocks between it and the hitch for added support, since i dont have the ability right now to built a hitch into the bumper itself.

yeah just take the cross bars off. all they are is bolts with big knobs on them. but the rails are bolted straight into the sheet metal, with torx bolts. not worth taking off. i took my cross bars off, only took a few minutes.

yes, when the sensor goes bad, the fuel mixture gets messed up. that will probably fix some issues. when you replace it, wipe the CEL codes FIRST, then leave the key off, and replace the sensor.

can you get some video of that baby doin some real work? lol

yeah it cant decide how it wants to be busted. and its interesting that it busted when no one was even in the rig to bust it, and it hadnt been used for several days prior

well it changed again. now i have no wiper movement on the wash cycle. i hold it in, the washer fluid pump runs and does its thing all over the back window, but the wiper doesnt move. but it moves in its speeds in the 2 different speed options.

yer search function be your best friend! (much better than pezzy breathin fire down your neck )

the hotter one, no matter what oem is, is always your best option.