skulptr

awesome guys, thanks for all the replies. i'm gonna go check it out now. i hope it goes well.

not for much longer

orielly's may say its testing fine, but thats only testing output as it spins. check your connections at the alternator too. orielly's doesnt have the ability to check the connectors, not while on the rig. orielly's doesnt even have code readers anymore, not unless you want to pay full price for rental. too many people stealing them.

check your belts! when my harmonic balancer came apart while driving, one of my belts slipped off. resulting in the water pump and alternator not spinning, and the ecu picked up on it immediately, flashing 4 lights simultaneously. check the tension in your belts, as well as your alternator. the alternator might be bad, which would explain why they stop flashing when it shifts down, higher rpm's giving more spin to the alternator. just some food for thought.

no its definetly not axle's, i check those weekly, plus if it was that clicking, it would make it constantly or when turning, not only when going over something as shallow as a small speed bump.

doing it only on bumps? how do i identify a broken strut mount? besides a broken something...

those the bluepoint saf-t-specs line?

that was part of the purpose of the temp sensor. if it floods, theres an exit, we all know they dont seal well. i can cover the end of the snorkel, and she keeps on runnin, unless i move the throttle then it dies.

just an update, drilled a 3/4" hole, installed the grommet from the stock air box and the air temp sensor. trimmed the top piece, and painted it all flat black. i'm thinkin of dremmeling down all the numbers and oddball formations they have on the outside of the turn pieces.

ok so i had 2 shops tell me the same thing, all my front end clicking was my lower ball joints. so i replaced them. now my clicking is worse. only happens when going over bumps, and since i live on a farm, i'm cursed with them every where i go unless i'm at work. i recorded a few videos, maybe someone has experience with this sound, and found the fix. i'm already working on the bearings, wish i had the proper tool to torque them in with. my front strut boots and bump stops are, well pretty much non existent. i hope you guys can hear it, i'm goin crazy over it. i'd hate to run the 2nd mr jim with this embarrassment

according to my local dealer, he has no record of this recall (maybe he's just an I-dot) and told me to call nissan directly. the number he gave me is 800/nissan1. just so other people have it. not a horribly difficult phone number to remember, i hope

which length did you get? course i guess that also is dependant on the thickness of your bumper too.

how is the hinge set up? i have really bad luck with thieves, so with my luck someone would jack this right off my truck the first week at best, if i don't find a locking latch, or if it just slips into the sleeve. does it slide up from underneath and get bolted down?

thanks for that northern, thats the exact thing i was thinkin about doin. i also have one of those 5 gal steel gas can's, have you come up with a mount for yours yet? i'm thinkin of mounting the tire lower, to reduce obstruction of the rear view, plus i have the stock step hitch, sits lower than yours

so my plan is to pull the rear bumper cover, replace the flimsy steel brace under neath with a chunk of 3/8 channel iron (have tones of it layin around) and replace the bumper cover. then trim holes for a hinge one one side and latch on the other, so it looks all pretty. i got the idea from fukinitupagain, again. but instead of using tube bending, using a triangular shaped frame. anyone have any idea's on hinges, i've come across a few online, but don't know anyone with any personal experience with them. one is from rockstomper.com hinge 1 a few options from comp4x4.com hinge 2 ployperformance.com hinge 3 they all look like essentially the same thing, but the price tag just keeps getting bigger and bigger. finding a latch to hold it together is a little more tricky. was looking at toggle clamps from carrlane.com, but i want something that i can lock up. carrlane.com latches latches 1 any input would be great, the latch is really baffling me...

might try wrapping a rag around the hose, then pullin with a pair of snub nose pliers, don't forget your safety glasses!

if mine didnt come out, it would still drown, with my luck. at full flex it doesnt touch. it passes beside the strut tower. this is the best shot i have for now, when my camera's charged up i'll get some better ones. for the airbox out, i just used a piece of 2 inch pipe about 2 inches long, pushed what would go into the turn, then pushed the rest into the airbox inlet. fits like a glove. for the "p trap" i went the 90deg soft at the box, 2 inch piece of tube, another 90deg soft, then a 45deg connected by just enough pipe to couple them together. that seemed to make it slip right above the strut tower. took a little elbow grease to get the fitting thats at the outlet of the fender. the pipe isnt glued into that fitting just in case i need to pull it back out, and the p trap setup isnt glued into the box. everything else except the fitting on the roof is abs cemented together. took about an hour to do, plus i already didnt have a splash guard after running 33x12.5s for a while.

what are the grease nipples for? the adjustable part?

yeah thats parts and labor. i was going to go with magnaflow, but they are fiberglass packed, meanin once you start burning oil its gonna get eaten up quick. the flowmasters don't have anypacking, just resonating chambers.

yeah, um, idk how much more "hidden" it can get lol unless you run pipe all the way under the body to the back or something ridonkulous. what does the water seperator look like? i've heard of them, but not sure how "enhanced" it is... well heres the wheel well view, if anyone cares. it was the most, complicated-ish, part.

been meaning to do this, just found the filter when i was doing the rear bushings. good write up though, i never thought about running it out of gas, i always just used hose clamps (and still get fuel in my eyes every time with my last cars )

well i found another alternative, my new muffler showed up. to get it welded on, and the exhaust piping behind it (doing dual out) will be about $150. muffler was $83 with free shipping here's my new baby

that top piece is a street 45 degree angle, not attached more than slip on, so i can turn it/add/replace as i go. right now i'm not worried, we haven't gotten much in the way of rain in a while. was thinkin about running it along the entire roof line and turning around the back of the rack, as to not take in too much water when going through puddles, and to keep it from getting buried in snow. i'm expecting 7ft or more this year, gonna have to be careful to dig out the intake port before starting up. so much for my remote start, forgot about it... precise, are you thinkin taking a straight piece and just angle cutting the end like an exhaust tip normally is?

its pretty close to the same for the rubber tubes at the plenum. Plus try fitting 3 inch in there...

i just pushed it in by hand until a quarter inch of threads were showing. you'll know its threaded if it runs in and out on the threads freely, with very very very little effort to turn it, being sure to push and pull on the hub to see where it was sitting before tightening it down, if it moves, the bearings aren't set yet