skulptr

so i got bored, and sick of my intake dead ending above my tire, so i started piecing 2" abs pipe and fittings together until it came to what it is now. my biggest challenges are how to strap it down near the windshield (it kinda flops in the breeze), and what to do about the gaping hole around where it passes through the fender. i know fukinitupagain did one, and i'm curious to hear from others some other ideas for finishing it, and what to do about the fender, i didnt really care about it since its already mashed up from the wreck, just a test fender anymore. on a side note, the way i did it, fits under the splash guard inside the fender, and its clear of the strut tower. if anyone wants pictures inside the fender, i can post some tomorrow after work

you don't have to pull the hub off to check the snap ring. its on the very outer of the spline. if you had auto hubs, it would have been that ring just under the little black dust cap. i'm not sure how the manual hubs are set up, but i will know in a few weeks

ok so i forgot to take pictures of putting everything back together, but i do have some pictures. don't know what good it will do. i'll just do a run up putting it back together i guess.. clean the hub, thread, and retainer groove with brake cleaner. check and clean your races, feel them for any grooves. if its still smooth, you're good to go. to remove the races, use a socket and dead blow hammer to drive them out their respective sides, and reverse to install new ones. clean the groove between the races, and repack with grease until its flush between the 2 races. recommend cleaning the abs sensor and grooves while you have it out. lug side brake side before greasing the bearings, place pressure in random places and roll the bearings, feeling for grooves, flat spots, and other wear. when packing with grease, place grease in your palm, and work it into the gap in each side of each bearing, turning the bearing as you go to work it into the spaces between the rollers. once they are packed, place the rear (larger) bearing inside the hub, packing some extra grease in behind it. rear, left. front, right. always get new grease/oil seals for the rear. cost $11 at napa. i drove it in using a rubber mallet. do not use metal, it will just chew it up. once the seal is placed, bolt the brake disc back to the hub, and put the hub back over the spindle until it stops. new grease seal clean up the retainer nut and ring, remove any burrs (mine had a few). place the outer bearing inside, pack some grease around it, and thread the nut on until it stops. there is a tool for tightening these down and checking their torque, but i cant seem to find a picture of one. i just used a 4 lug axle socket and snapped off 2 of the notches. i do not have the torque specs with me, but i will have them tomorrow when i get my write out from all-data. replace at least the inner o-ring on the drive flange (or manual hub), i found them at napa and paid $3 for a pair of them. the ring should snap over, and fit in the groove. i will also have the exact size and thickness tomorrow as well. pack the inner of the flange, where its smooth and shiny with grease, and place some (not much) on the rough section, and a light coat on the inner o-ring. place for flange nuts back on, torque them down, and put the rest back together.

i'm referring to the snap ring on the spline inside the hub...

i'm hoping my blowing arent from the alarm. i had one installed, and it flashes the parking lights every time i get in and out, and of course when it goes off

do what i did, rip it ALL OFF!!! and start over. once the muffler starts to droop, the rest is on its way... my resonator fell off (when it was towed off the freeway), the pipe between it and the muffler a few days later, and the muffler about 2 weeks after the resonator came off. i just ordered a flowmaster dual in/dual out muffler from exhaustexhaust.com for $84usd with free shipping to the 48 states

i had this issue, can you move your cv in and out at ALL from the hub? reach behind the brake and just move it in and out of the transaxle. mine had some play, had to get a thicker snap ring, fixed my click. also make sure the screws in the bearing retainer are snug. one of mine fell out and was free floating inside my hub

800/366-2070 ask for rick..

yeah i hope you get that beast runnin for the meet!! that is some real (ouch). did that to my concorde... and my celica.... and my accord..... hope it works out for you

anyone having issues with blowing bulbs constantly? my passenger side bulb blows about every 3 weeks..

motion auto, napa auto, about 96 for the drivers, 75 for the passengers. i've replaced my drivers side manifold twice in the last year make sure all of your supports points for the exhaust pipe are in one piece. i.e, cut off all the heat shielding, reweld the supports between the 2 pipes, and where the pipes come down from the headers, and back by the muffler. mine were all rusted off, leaving the manifolds to hold all the weight. now that i've fixed everything, they're holding up alot better. just my

well i have my bearings out right now, my bearings and races are fine, just need new seals. i'm going to pick those up (and some pancakes), i'll snap some pics and post em up, if you want.

looks like this is getting challenged here pretty soon!

woot another washington man, you should take a look into the trail rides/events section for the mr jim run! less than 2 months away now!

is it just a shimmy in the steering wheel?

just sounds like you have water in a plug. let it dry out (or by electric parts drier) and try again.

i would check down the spark plug boots. any loose connections??

anybody have this issue. bending the whole bracket the lower arm bolts to?? the bolt seemingly decided it was going to be "one" with the bushing, when i went to hit it out, guess what got all bent up. now what.... i also snapped a vice handle in 2 only half way through the 2nd bushing. only 2.5 more bushings to go, now i'm without a vehicle

no 65 on the freeway should only be about 3k rpms. the over drive button has 2 settings, in and out. if its in, its on. if its out its off. push on it a few times to see where it is, then make the decision for yourself, which is in, and which is out. you will notice a BIG BIG BIG difference between overdrive on and over drive off.

since everything is built into itself on these, from the cats youll be needing the down pipes, they bolt to the pre muffler, then the post muffler bolts to the premuffler's output. together to replace it all (from schmucks budget garbage), lookin around 500 plus tax, all bolt on. you can get a custom system bent and welded together that'll last longer and sound better for about 250, depending where you go. the system i'm quoted for (just havent had the money) is a flowmaster 2.5" system from the cats back with dual out for 225 plus tax

put iti in neutral when going downhill then. i have a 3 mile down grade every day on the freeway. i just put it in neutral, and usually start gaining speed about half way down. 75+

what??? none of that made sense.... sorry..

they're studs, like lug nut studs. i dont recommend pounding them out, you can (in my case) shock the manifolds to the point of breaking. i just heated mine up and pressed them out. once theyre red hot, they move like nothings holding them in.

get an aftermarket head unit?

now only if all of us were lucky enough to have all those tools. not sayin i'm not, but i highly doubt everyone else here has a shop readily accessible when ever they want.