skulptr

washed it

need of repetition of previous posts?

try cleaning your maf elements, there is a write up for it

waiting to hear back from the owner right now on the switches and differential, i forgot to look when i was out there wether it was lsd or not tailights and stereo havent been there since i've known about the truck, the exhaust is missing up to the flange into the mufflers

if you can place a pop can next to the tire and its taller than the tire, you have low pro's.

i'd take those rims offroad, but there'd be no need to sell them afterward

there are 4 switches in the drivers door, just the master switch?

think i found the light not always functioning issue

that should be someting you should check on your rig. I won't break something for a little piece of it. So if it does detach then i will. But if not i won't.

interested in where, and how much you spent, on the hid conversion kits

but i do have the cap from my old tank. all in all, my 2 tanks came out in 9 pieces, so i dun wanna hear it.

i say again, totalled in the core support, and no engine or trans. So no ac. And no it doesn't have a sunroof

unfortunately he put it in his 97 converting it to a 5speed meaning everything manual related is missing. I would have loved to convert mine to a 5 speed with only 8k miles on it ever.

i waas going to post in the parts for sale, but figured its going to get more attention here first, even if it gets moved by a mod. i came across a gold r50 sitting at a shop in the middle of no where, left a note at the shop for teh owner to call me. he finally did, and i got the scoop on it. this truck, a 1999, was totalled in early 2000, with only 8k miles on it!!! hit a tree and slid sideways into another. i asked if he's selling parts, and he gave me the thumbs up to take what ever i want, and write a check for everything totalled up from a junkyard, and then half of that quoted price. so that means i walked away with the spoiler, coolant tank, washer fluid tank, drivers headlight, both marker lights, passenger heated mirror, fuel pump and all sensors, and the drivers lower control arm for a grand total of 32$, and i will be returning next week for the suspension. as for whats not available, what i have already listed, plus no engine, tranny, hood, front seats, front bumper, drivers door. other than that, everything else is still there. if you need something PM me, and i'll be the middle man in getting everything, and finding out what is and isnt available and for what price plus shipping. just remember, everything only has 8k miles on it, when i pulled that control arm on my rig, i had to torch the old bolts out, with this one i didnt even need a breaker bar!! everything is absolutely pristine, it has tan cloth interior, exterior is gold with damage to the core support and fender above the rear drivers tire, and sat in a shop uptil this summer when they pulled the engine and tranny. i would have bought that in a hurry.

at least a 3.75" bs, possible spacers if your a little cheaper like some of us

i was about 3 rigs ahead of silverpath, and took this damage in the same spot as those pics. i'm definetly looking into sliders, since we'r eboth running stock height on 31s, and can't afford a lift for a while.

holy balls fatman! when your done, you'll have to post up, in one posting, what you have done with which parts in which order, so someone (like me) doesnt have to scrounge around for weeks on end through tons of msc information to get what i need to catch up to you!

depends on your rims.

ive got a bunch of tools in that bag, i wonder which one it is...

i can't even feel the plug to put the wire back on, i highly doubt i'd be able to get a new one back there, let alone not cross thread it. i need new ones bad, i've had the truck for 2 years, and the havent been changed yet, and idk how long before i got it.

jsut curious, how did you do your plugs. i had a hard time just pulling the wires off to pull the valve covers last year. i dont even knwo how to begin to do that rear plug...

well here's mine! i saw it a few times getting off i90 in spokane valley, then ran into it at the walmart on highway 2 in airway heights, waited around for them and talked to them. they didnt lift it, had no clue about anything on it or what it was capable of, or even that they had torn and clicking cv's in the front. passed on about getting manual hubs and replacing the cv's for cheap and saving alot of headache. looked like the ome lift to me. mind you, it was driven by a skinny little blonde chick and her cowboy daddy.

i actually figured out that the spring was catching when i tightened it down. mine would turn half way and become almost impossible to finish. what i did was finger tighten 3 screws (star pattern) and try turning it, if it didnt turn, i pushed IN on the dial, which seemed to pushed it into its little track. tightened the other 3, and then finished tightening them all. it just seemed like the dial was binding inside its cap housing, and pushing on it straightened it back out, which is probably what installing it while in lock did, forced it outward so it had no chance to bind up.

direct bolt on. Axle wasn't changed until the latest model

for one the battery needs to be disconnected for 12 hours minimum to make a difference. 2, the IAC isn't going to hurt anything. but check its connections. its the sensor in the front of the box in the fender. mine dangled for a few months before i found out about it. never once got a code for it, so it must be disconnected or something got messed up in the wiring.