skulptr

dead link?

i have tried that stuff once, and my experience was opposite. i used it in my old honda that had an oil leak, and it doubled the leak overnight. i saw your post about the trans restore. i just don't have the room to chance it without a backup option. i don't doubt you one bit, you haven't done me wrong (my stickies lol). i'm just, well a worry wort, since my son is about 42 hours old right now. i'm kinda hitting bumps i never knew existed. so which would be my better bet? the engine in my truck with vavle stem seals, or the engine thats been sitting on the stand for 6 months waiting and needs rings at least. the rings and seals cost the same. i would have to change the knock sensor out if i fix whats already in the truck, but i have no reason to doubt the one on the stand has a good sensor, the engine is from a 2000 model, final r50 before the facelift

thats what i was going to recommend. the starter bolts, i believe, threads into the trans case. if you can get the other bolt out, it should slide right off. course i don't know how much space you have to work with under there. if you can get it slid back even a half inch or better, you can grasp that sheared bolt with some vise grips and go at it backing it out. then slide the starter back up and pull that bolt out. none the less, its gonna be a pita which ever way you take.

was there any meat left on the bolt at all? or just sheared off clean at the block?

i guess the point in this isnt to do a full rebuild, but to get it running and not burning oil. i'm also up for emissions on december 29th, and my CEL has been on for a year now, knock sensor and o2 codes last time i checked.

i would check the fuel pump relay honestly. have you tried turning the key on and off, instead of disconnecting the battery, actuating the relays?

it smokes a little at start, and under heavy throttle. its also been having alot of issues starting the past few months. would start really hard in the morning, idling up to 1200 right away then dropping to 2xx and bouncing around for a couple seconds, feeling like its running on 3-4 cylinders, then it would be fine. when i get to work, it would sit for 2 hours til break, it would start just fine while i move it to a closer spot. by lunch, try to start it and it dies instantly and will continue to unless i hold the throttle open and rev it up. and it does seem to have a constant tick. volume comes and goes, but never leaves.

well i'm sick of my pathy burning oil. my son was born yesterday, and on our way home from the hospital the pathy gave out, got stranded on the side of the freeway in pitch black. found out she was 2.5 quarts of oil short. she's burning more than i can afford to put in it. so i have none close enough pateince for the search button right now. i have a vg33 sitting on a stand with 86xxx miles and low compression in cylinder 1, as far as i know. the lady never changed the oil in it, which is why i have it now. $20 engine is a $20 engine. i need to get this engine running and in the pathy asap on as little money as possible, since i have none. can anyone rattle off what i need to get this taken care of. its supposed to be snowing by the end of the week.

pretty easy depending whcih onw. jack the engine , loosen the bolts, put the new one in its place, lower the engine.

sounds like a bad motor or tranny mount.

is the rear supposed to be 2 inches shorter? both of your guys rigs are doing that now

did you check both fuse boxes? one under the hood controls that stuff, as well as one under the dash.

o so exactly the same way it would hold a hitch stinger in, just upright. brilliant!, and cheaper! thanks, now i can finally finish my carrier!!

i can give you a basic how to ~remove throttle cables, set aside ~remove any other wires hindering the plenum, i believe there's a few spark plug wires that need to go. ~unplug all sensors on upper intake plenum ~unbolt upper plenum, will probably require ALOT of torque, so have a breaker bar handy, i broke my finger on mine. ~remove any plugs/vaccuum lines on either cover, i believe passenger is the worst. ~remove/loosen anything that might be in the way. ~remove bolts from valve cover. do one cover at a time, but always do both in one job, just like brakes. ~remove old gasket, probably going to need a small flat head screwdriver, and lots of elbow grease. mine came out in about 100 pieces. ~put some gasket rtv in the groove BEFORE putting the new gasket into the cover, helps to adhere the gasket, and it keeps it from moving while you put the cover back on. ~reverse steps 1-6, and your done. its been almost a year since i did this, and i wrote this up on pure memory, so if its a little off, i apologize. the biggest problem i had, is being 5'6, i had to be on my knees on the core support, and my knees HURT afterwards. so you may try to find some padding or something that helps.

curious about that latch! how does it work

right below the stereo. would look better if mine was a full size cb. i just screwed the top plate of the cb to the bottom of the stereo mount kit, then screwed the cb plate back to the cb.

love the "premium gas" bit, if i put premium gas in mine, my mileage DROPS drastically!

I need to convert my rear bumper to attach to the hitch mounting brackets so i can relocate the hitch to the bumper, but i don't trust my welding skills enough to hold trailer weight.

hid leveler?? wat hid's??

open the hood, look to the top of the strut towers, there is a bolt coming through in the center of the mount, rock the truck, if you see excessive play in it, the mounts are bad, they are completely seperate from the strut towers, and easily replacable, but can cause extreme damage if you don't fix em. utilize your search function, and you'll find lots of information. there's my clunk thread from a few months back. My link

from a crapstain to an r50!

ball joints, sway bar end links and bushings front and rear, strut tower mounts, wheel bearings, trailing arm (rear) bushings, tie rod ends thats your basic "find the clunk" list. check those things first.

same here, wierd aint it? i dont think this is an r50, not even an r51 has that

and that trunk release switch?

i would!