skulptr

every one of you is lucky to even get a quote. not one single shop here will fix rust. 75% of the shops actually laughed at me when i asked for a quote to fix it. and my cancer is minimal, 2 small spots 3 inches long on the passenger rear. but i know its going to spread like a disease since its bubbling up.

#2 sensor is behind the cat, bank 2 is drivers side. knock sensor is just a wipe your computer after you replace the o2 sensor kinda thing. issa pain to replace anyway.

remove it huh? how do i do that without screwing with my emissions? and what do i have to do with the vacuum lines?

guess thats what i get for not payin attention

i had to take the braket off completely, it rusted clean loose. as far as the rattling goes, take it to an exhaust shop and have em zip through all the heat shield covers and take em out. no point in having them except up by the engine bay. took mine off a few months ago.

ok so now i'm having intermittent idle problems. idle will drop randomly to about 400 rmps, barely stay running. its been doing this very randomly without a pattern that i can see ever since i removed the intake plenum to replace the vavle cover gaskets. then yesterday, my CEL came on. code, exhaust gas recirculation flow. obviously something to do with the egr valve. the haynes manual says you should be able to see the needle and diaphram move when the engine is revved at full temperature. but i can stick my finger in there and rev it, nothings moving. and if anyone has tried looking in theirs lately, its impossible from every angle. but i can push up on that diaphram, and she dies out, depending how far i push it. i pulled all the vaccuum lines, everything is flowing like it should, or so it seems. any help would be great, i'm getting frustrated.

they salt there instead of chemicals?? that would be your problem. move to anthoer state! lol and i put flares ON just to hide my little rust patches over the rear passenger.

check the r50 forum down the page. information about anything suspension you will ever need to know! check the pinned topics as well. utilize your search feature alot, you'd be surprised whats already been discussed http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showforum=7

i'm not sure if its an oem hitch or not, but is the same as on my pathy, mine came with a hitch cover stamped with the nissan emblem. i dont think all 6 bolt holes are used, but i will look tomorrow when its daylight again the step comes in handy sometimes.

fourth hole is visible in the pics posted by dududuckling. should be pretty easy to do once you get the right tooling

having a tire underneath is no different simply bolt and go. recommend checking and/or replaceing the bolts you use first. and definetly make sure they are torqued within rating.

sounds like you have more going on than just a faulty code trip. whens the last time you did a full tune up?

ok so i replaced both valve cover gaskets, and to my demise i realized i put them both in upside down. its been over a week now since i did them, an dit looks like i'm going to be doing them again this coming weekend. i put the flat side inside teh flange on the covers. supposed to be flat side to the block. oh well. at least the leakage issue is at bay for now. so heres a few pictures from the work. i'm not sure if the internals are supposed to be this color, but the pitch black you see is oil... this is how one gasket came out, the other side was about 15x worse and dried up. about 2 hours of just picking out old dried gasket. and finally clean valve covers replaced. startin to finally get somewhere. when i removed the intake plenum, i noticed a plug that was not connected to anything. i followed the wire to whats called the AAC valve on the bottom side of the plenum, any idea what this was for? its connected now, and the check engine light hasnt returned saying o2 or knock sensor since then. and is it normal to have a REALLY hard time starting back up after doing this job? when i first started back up, it spit and spattered ran rough like it was missing then died. wouldnt start right bacck up, had to keep cranking til it started, and ran like it was missing bad again. opened the throttle a little, it smoothed out and now its running fine. anyone had this happen?

fairchild is gettin slow. theyre sittin on standby for haiti. plus we got nothin for snow. couldnt even get a half foot if you put everything together we got this season. i was looking forward to it, hence, the pathy i bought lol

yeah spokanes roads SUCK!! had a set of 17s on a prelude, hit one pot hole and it took out 2 rims.

r50s have em too

agreed, but you obviously havent driven up here, where standards are, umm, lower. lol

this is the only one i've seen, not too comforting since i spend 95% of my time on the freeway

are you sure its 21 gal? i've never been able to put more than 19 in, and thats even with literally pushing it to the pump cause i ran dry.

if someone has the file still can it be reposted? i have no idea what harness and where is being talked about, but i'm constantly getting the knock sensor and o2 codes.

does your fuel low light still work? mine quit on me 2 months ago when it started getting cold.

yes that cv joint is shot. do NOT run in 4wd until you replace that axle. it can seize on you and then your in a whole world of crap after that.

standing on the stairs waiting, life long fear of clowns in 3... 2... 1...

hopefully i'm not double posting this, i searched on here didnt find anything. i came across this today, and i'm 'not sure how. http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/Transmission%20Conversion%20Manual_final.pdf

thats kinda what i figured. just want to have something to show my machine guy. he's hard to describe something too lol and he doesnt like my drawings