skulptr

in my experience a boot is about 10x more a PITA to replace than just popping a new axle in place. jus my 2cents

im down

any tips on what it takes to get to it. obviously i have to remove the intake plenum. what else?

definetly the wiser choice

eh my comp is crap lol. i thought i pm'd u askin if you could take pics of your guard mounts. i put one on my rig, but its pretty much useless. i can hit a speed bump hard enough and it'll move. i'm just gonna make my own brackets, but i need to know where what else i'm connecting to besides the tow hook bolts

so i took the filler cap off and didnt get any smoke coming out. but i did notice looking around the engine, i replaced the drivers side exhaust header, and the new heat shield has a pretty well covered oil burn on it, so it makes me think my leak is around my valve cover on the back side of the motor. go figure. looks like the intake is gettin pulled this weekend so i can reach that impossible to reach area

just pack that new boot with grease, since theres no tellin how long thats been torn, clean the whole assembly and check for damage before putting the new boot on.

dude, check ur pm's! please!

should just be bolt on bolt off. take the time while your diggin though and clean and regrease your bearings. not a whole lot more to it, but its a definite keep up on. manual form the factory says to regrease them any time you go off road, into a dusty area, or every few thousand miles, i highly doubt any of us actually kept up on that. post pics when ur done

ok i'll do that tomorrow. and i had it flushed just to have it done, after 173k miles i figured its time for some extra tlc to keep her runnin. also my air filters arent lasting very long. this last one i bought lasted about a month, it has a big black spot concentrated in one spot.

considering i'm 20 minutes from the idaho border, pretty much nothing is central for me. middle of the state is about as central as it gets

under the intake plenum. i've had that code for months now. erase the computer, should stay off for a while unless its in really bad shape. i can erase the code, and it will stay off for either an hour, or weeks.

rolled over 173k miles last week. and there is no engines available up here, there all disabled by our lovely president and his stupid idea to screw everyone that cant afford CARS. and if i was burning it, that fast, wouldnt it smoke?

ok, so i'm going through a quart every week to 2 weeks now. i'm not smokin, i had a small leak a fwe months ago, oil sending unit went bad, fixed that. i had the oil flushed and changed, 2 weeks ago. i'm now off the stick, and what does show is black as night. but the stick isnt very helpful cause its always changing. i leave it over night, and the oil level will be over an inch past the bob at the end of the stick, after i get home from work same day, let it sit for HOURS check the stick, dry. advice? this has been a never ending road of problems since i bought it in july, my exhaust started falling off last week, literally falling off onto the road, the drivers side exhaust header broke into 3 pieces a week after i bought it

so what happened to this idea? and man most of you are on the other side of the weather barrier, thats a long drive for those few of us in the desert over here but i'd be down, drunk, passes, wheelin, sounds like a weekend blast. why make it one night? why not a weekend campout or something?

i'm havin a similar problem. out of gear it idles just fine, cruises fine, but sitting in gear at idle it runs rough. i havent pulled my codes yet, but i know my knock sensor is shot, might check on that as well

i just relaced my crank pulley, its under the r50 forum. i just used a strap wrench set against the alternator pulley or frame rail, which ever reaches, then used a breaker bar. came out pretty easy if you have a good enough strap wrench. i broke the first one, it was a cheapy though

because mines from another rig. it hooks on to more than just the tow hooks unlike most guards...

so has anyone else put an aftermarket brush guard on thier r50? i have one on mine, but i was hoping someone has one installed a little more resiliant and would be willin to share some pics and/or measurements of the brackets its attached with.

welcome!! we're gonna have to get all the washington people together!

i would have tapped them, but i did all this with the radiator in, and i dont have a tap and die kit, i had to buy and return the puller kit i used. money is too tight right now since the wife got laid off

well the final verdict, i got the whole thing changed and put back together in an hour. the balancer puller works, but you have to go buy your own bolts, the ones in a 46 piece kit didnt work. bolt threading is m6x100, and you want them at least 60mm in length, plus a decent washer or 2 per bolt. you can pull on it with the pulley bolt still threaded since it has a divet for a center on a puller, but i had a big enough center. it only took about 10 seconds and very little effort once i got the 2 bolts finally threaded, its a pain considering you have to do it fully by feel from above or below. putting it back on equally as easy, i only took the fan blade off, might be easier to take the whole clutch off, only problem i have is who ever had this before me bent the bolts the clutch attaches to. the new one hit the fan clutch, but only for abotu 1/4", and i was able to wiggle around it without breaking any fins off. used the bolt to drive the pulley the rest of the way back in, then a urethan belt wrench to hold it and tighten the bolt the rest of the way. the bolts dont thread all the way through, i dont know why, i got them that far and got complete resistance, but its plenty far enough.

anybody else notice the bolt hole beside the shaft? theres one adjacent to that on the other side of the shaft, i just noticed looking at the picture again. not sure if its threaded yet, but if it is, think a harmonic balancer puller would be strong enough to pull it out?

alright, heres the pics i promised, but i have ha problem, i got the bolt out (took a $35 strap wrench and $10 socket to do so), now i cant figure out how to get the dern thang off the shaft. i cant pry against behind the pulley, cause thats the timing belt cover, couldnt imagine bending then having to replace that too. so this is where i'm at, now i need some advice, how the F%$# do i get this off!

i was referring to mt profile picture, like what you guys have on the left side. here's the day i bought it, behind what i traded for it. and now, sitting on the side of the road suffering from a busted crank pulley.