Simon

This has been covered....a bazillion times.

IN the front end, next to nothing. In the rear something like this....

You forget that driver skill has as much to do with off road capability as any modifications done to any vehicle. Tough to say an R50 can't do this, or can't do that. I've seen Jeeps on 33" tires + that can't do what Pezzy does in her R50. Again, driver skill. Picking the right line through a trail is key. If you point your tires over the rocks, you don't hang up diffs.

There is no "lockup". It's just a bunch of clutch plates that kinda grab to make both wheels turn. The WD21 LSD is simply tighter, with about 230lbs of break force on the LSD. The R50 is only about 130lbs. It was probably loosened up to make it a little more driveable in 2wd in the winter, as it's really easy to break the rear end loose on the WD21 in winter when turning.

Weird. Could be the mounts are tweaked, causing the rail's alignment to be off. My old truck would do that periodically, but usually only until I hit the first bump, then I'd hear the seat lock into place.

Are you looking for a bullbar, or a brushguard. A bullbar is typically referring to a winch mount bumper, similar to the one in my sig pic. A brush guard is typically a series of tubes, and metal anchors that attach OVER the stock bumper. Brush guards are given away, or sold cheap all the time. Bullbars are not cheap, though, there was recently a thread on this board about a deal on the ARB brand new for less than you quoted above. (ARB is the one on my truck)

I think you may have been looking in the wrong spot. The wire between the two rails is there to allow the 1 adjustment handle to move both rails. I'd look at the springs on the bad side, to ensure they have enough tension to interlock the rail on that side securely with the teeth.

Not necessarily. Pezzy's 99.5 XE has the 4.6 gears.

That's the link...I just double checked it. It's my website, and it seems to be working fine.

The ARB mounts in the stock bumper locations, through the body, and also down low, where the stock tow hook attaches. Mine is relocated, due to the body lift, so mine isn't exactly as stock, and I have to re-attach the top two mounts. But if you're interested, there are a pile of pics here: http://www.canadianpathy.com/photos/may12thmods/index.htm You'll have to weed through, as many of the pics are from my body lift installation....the bumper relocation pics are at the end.

There are some folks that have them. I hope to be mounting one shortly, in my modified ARB front bumper. The modifications done to it were for the 3" body lift.

R50 Pathfinders all have front disc, and rear drums. The rear drums could be in need of adjustment. ANother way to adjust them...... find an open parking lot. Reverse at a decent speed, slam the brakes. Repeat. After a few times, the rear brakes should be adjusted properly, and your pedal feel should have tightened up.

12 to 12 is a full turn, or the wrench going all the way around.

LOL..... I kinda thought that, but my buddy who helped me build mine (he's the talent, I was the labour) would have none of it. He had to have it looking good as well.

You can crank them a little higher. Leave at least a half inch between the bumpstops. Don't actually do anything with the bumpstops, as without them, when you flex off road, you will kill your CV's. That extra little bit is enough to do it. Keep in mind as well that the rear springs will sag a bit over time, and will settle in a bit initially.....so if you've just installed the kit, you may want to wait a week or two until things settle before making adjustments.

Weird. Is it possible you just got a bad cap? If the dizzy is turning, it's pretty simple.....spark in, distributed to plug wires. THe electronics within the distributor aren't even in the loop at that point.

Nope.....

If you have a V6 WD21, a front diff should be easy enough to source at a local junkyard. They don't go that often, so chances are, if you pull one, it'll be good. The one thing you'll have to pay attention to, is the gear ratio of your truck. On a little plaque under the hood, you'll either see HG43 (4.3xxx gears) or HG46 (4.6xx gears). Make sure you get a differential that matches your gear ratio.

It all depends. If the hubs are screwed, they'll keep the front end engaged. I'd have him remove the CV joints from the front end as well.

If you want to be SURE that it's out of 4WD.....have the mechanic remove the front driveshaft, and the CV's. The diff WON'T spin if that's the case.

You may get a little bit, but shouldn't get much. If you're worried about it, take the fuel pump fuse out, and start the truck and let it run until it dies.....that will ensure most of the fuel in the lines is burned off.

Yep, as easy as it looks. Just a pain to get your hand in there to get the hoses on/off. I'm not sure on the size, but you can (if you have other transportation for a short while) take the hose with you to the parts store, and match up the sizing.

It's the intermediate cable between the brake handle, and the "T" that separates to the two rear wheels. Mine did the same thing. In the interim, I snapped the cable by pulling up as hard as I could, then replaced that intermediate cable. It's pretty easy to do, though, you have to remove the center console to do it.

The only thing that helps with that ticking is using some Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I use about 500ml every second oil change. On the changes where I don't use it, I get the tick.

SWEET MAN!!! That's how mine got it's name!