87pathy

its mourningwould and its a 2 door, if i'm not mistaken

sorry it took so long, i'm out of town on business. for the OBA, I put the switch and guage just forward of the stick shift and under the console. I only had to run the control power and a guage line to the back. I have power (50amp) in the back of my rig, so i didn't have to run a power cable to the back. eventually, i'll run a line to the front bumper and to the back, but this will do for now.

383 in the pathy will warrant 1 tons. D60 front. as for ford dodge.. etc.. depends, are you going to runt eh stock nissan T case? if so, then it MUST be a ford. however, 1 tons are going to be very wide. so narrowing htem is going to be expensive. to get a Ford D60 for the front, expect to pay about 1200 bucks. this does not include gears lockers.. etc. for the rear get a 14BFF duelly, and put single wheel hubs on it, should be about the right width, i'd have to check the numbers to get an exact measurement. there is nothing cheap about doing a SAS on a nissan.

i was originally going to put the compressorin the engine bay, and the tank under. but i thought better of it becuase 1) compressor gets really hot, and the heat in the engine bay will add to this, plus.. just don't have the room with everything else. 2) i have crammed everythign imaginable into places under my rig. sticks, logs, rocks.. you name it. so i just put it all int eh back, it actually looks good but was PITA.. again, i'll get some pics.

FYI on the viair system. its nice, works good.. but a PITA to install. I'll take some pics of mine and send them to you.

you tow 4300 lbs with that pathfinder? for the safety of eveybody on the road, i hope you at least have a good set of trailer brakes. if you really want disk brakes, just get a new rear axle housing, going to be the easiest way. I think you can get them from frontiers, and x terras, but don't quote m on that.

its normal to have to re-adjust them after initial installation. if properly installed and adjusted, i doubt you'ld even know the difference between drum and disk in the rear. Unless, its an offroad only rig, where you would get @!*% in the brakes all the time.

the ONLY time ive ever seen this happen 3 occations total was in my old plymoth champ.. carb problems, and hot. 1 kia sephia,cam timing way off. toyota pickup, Cam timing way off. are you sure your timging belt didn't jump? never does a pathfinder start that hard.

just grind away.. eat the money..

should be under 800 for emissions test.

the part is 100 bucks US, easy to change, they are related.. as they are part of your exhaust and emissions system.

got the blinging 38 x 12.5 x 15 TSL/SX on custom beadlocks.

aluminium will strip before the steel, if you stripped steel, i feel the worst. hope that i'm worng.. but.............

do you have a shrowd on your fan / rad?

I have 2 of them.. oh yeah..

well, when you pick one.. sent the other to me.. i need a new grill

didi say you couldn;t do it in 7.8? no i didn't i said you couldn't do itin 4.. so unwad your panties.

ya, on a scok wd21, you have to pull the torsion bars, cross member and posibly exhaust. the last one i did we coldn't pull the tranny back cause the top hit on the firewall, and the bottom caught on the cross pipe. we ended up removing it from teh manifold on 1 side, and cutting it ont he other side. then i welded it back together when we were done.

4 hours on a wd 21. complete BS. i can do it on mine in about 4 but i don't have to remove all the ifs stuff. if you ONLY do the pressure plate.. your a dumb ass

you need to find out what he did to the clutch. did he replace the friction disk did he replace the pressure plate did he resurface the flywheel did he replace the pilot bushing did he replace the throwout bearing? I know a stock kit for a 3.0 is 200 bucks (approx) and another 30-40 for getting the flywheel resurfaced. if he did all this, the clutch should be good for a long time. and if he needed to change the clutch at only 95k.. he needs to learn how to drive a clutch. the centerforce is not necessary

just change the switch..

i had a nissan tech tell me, and i quote "i've seen them worn out after over 250k miles.. but i've never seen a nissan cluth FAIL." I havn't either

i've done several of them and it takes all weekend in a wd 21. i'm betting these are a little bit easier. don't waste your money on a centerforce clutch. I'm on #2 clutch at 365K. i put the second one in 3.5 years ago, i've smoked it several times and still no problems. I'll guarantee i put my clutch through more abuse than most.

fram.. GARBAGE

you can see 20 mpg. its not unheard of, but you can't drive like a jackass