87pathy

Ok, if you REALLY want to get into detail ALL torque values are supposed to be wiht new bolts and light oil on the threads. You are NEVER supposed to torque a bolt more than once. Lock washers are garbage, cause they dialate over use, and the bolt becomes loose, leading to fatigue failure. You have to remember, if its yours, do what you want, but if you are making a recomondation to somebody, you better make sure your right. will it fail.. can't say but for 5 bucks? come on.. change them.

really, for the whole 5 dollars it will cost you.

you ever had a drive shaft come apart at 65mph? google it.

I'd almost put money on it. my buddy had the same problem.

plus or minus 5% actually, so, its still too much.. just saying you may be fine for years to come... but you might not.. I only tighten my u joinst with a wrench.. if i can't push on it with a WRENCH,, its tight.

For that high of a torque its either a grade 10.9, or its an M14, odd ball thing. i have access to engineering charts for bolt torque that i use every day.

ok, lets look at it this way. 56 ft/lbs is 80% of proof load. (standard engineering value) so, proof load (safe operating range) is 67.2 ft/lbs. You over toruqed them by 11%. will it fail.. maybe not.. but do you really want to take that chance?

that alty won't put out more that 18V. I ran mine for 1.5 years at 18 volts. I'd ve investigating a short.

changing a Nissan H233 for a Dana 44 is going backwards.

200K, There is nothing wrong with it. IF you put in a 350, DON'T PUT A CARBED ENGINE IN IT!!! that is so, 80 yo technology.

if in fact they are 12mm grade 8.8, (which i think they are) and you torqued them to 75, they now need to be thrown away because you are just about at yeild of the bolt. and have over torqued them. (which means you have stretched them beyond safe use)

yup, rear hatch..

German specs. Gudentite. i think they are M12 bolts. so it would be about 55 ft pounds.

got randies Ring and pinion to upgrade my D44 alloy shafts to the new hardcore shafts. FREEEEEEE of charge.. those guys rock.

baffle pack is alot like a glas pack, but has baffles in it. glass packs are not spark arrestors, and cuold get you in trouble.

get a high flow cat and a baffle pack. works great and will pass emisions.

mine quit workign years ago, then it started working again.. then stopped again, hasn't worked for several years.

80's chevy half tons

think of it this way.. you got a free D30.. does it have CV's or u joints? the person you got it from probably upgraded to a D44. even jeeps don't keep the D30's. I would sell it to a jeep guy and save the money for a D44 sombody else asked about a Chevy front end for a nissan..Answer is NO. the pumpkin is on the wrong side.

by the time you make a D30 capable of running a 35" tire reliably, you can buy a 44, or have a good down payment for a D60. Just not worth it. if your dead set on it, make sure you its at least a HP model.

FWIW, I put my ECU in the glove box. had to extend 1 ground wire. the other coils up or loops back up in the passengers kick panel. as far as behind the glove box, I have seen it done.. Mr. Packie88 did it. (RIP) i asked him about it getting hot and he said it didn't.

I drilled mine out to 3/4, with a hand drill while under the vehicle. 5 years later, its fine.

a few years ago when i was at the nissan dealer, i asked this very same question. the reason is.. "nissan" cannot gurantee that some idiot knows how to drive a clutch. that being said, he said its fine, they just can't guarantee it therefore, the lower tow rating.

here is what i found on the in cab control for the 9000's -- STOP! -- DO NOT PUT THIS PRODUCT IN YOUR SHOPPING CART! IT HAS BEEN DISCONTINUED.