adamzan

You absolutely need to set the timing to the proper spec when warm. If the idle is high and you set it to 15 it will be way retarded. In the manual it states this. As for the ticking could it just be lifter noise the truck had before? Possibly from sitting a while the oil has drained down and they need to be pumped back up (this happens automatically). If the spark plug wire is not sitting properly, its best to get new ones. Maybe take one from that other pathfinder in your pics?

I like that. I want to do something similar.

The only reason the timing belt would jump is if the belt is old, and teeth are breaking off. Or the tension was not set properly.

Lol I have never done that.

Good to know. Probably better off with nissan parts than aftermarket crap anyway.

Some engines have 5 mark pulleys, some have 7. Mine has 7 with some of the marks having factory paint on them. As long as you get it within a few degrees it should be fine. It's probably too cold for it to pre detonate where he is anyway, lol.

Hopefully it resolves the problem. Aftermarket parts these days are junk I've found. Even moog. I was in Nanaimo and tofino in September, great spot you guys have out there! I even brought my pathy with me!

Sounds like the dizzy is off a tooth. I had an issue where the top part of the shaft of the dizzy could rotate while installed in the truck, basically you could force the rotor to turn (with the screw in) and it would change the timing. Took me a while to figure that out. If you put the distributor such that the bolt holding it down is in the middle of the slotted hole, that should put you almost at 15 degrees. A couple degrees in either direction and it will run fine. When you install it, if you put it in while the engine is at TDC, the rotor should be pointing at the # 1 cylinder plug wire port on the cap.

My 94SE has 439,000kms on it...

You don't need to take the oil pump off. Just replace the crank seal and be on your way. It is a lot of labour to remove the oil pump. Like, you may as well pull the motor out of the truck a lot of labour...

X2 You should get greaseable aftermarket ones or get them from Nissan.

It is 15 ft-lbs. The waterpump is aluminum but there are no threads in it. The bolts go straight through into the cast iron block.

Try unplugging the maf sensor and then starting it. You won't be able to rev it past 2 or 3k rpm but it should still run.

T would be turbo but there is no factory VG33ET. If you turbo it yourself I guess it would become that. Just like a VG34 is a bored over 33... I have had a wd21 since 2005. I have played around with various intakes, honestly it makes no difference it was very well designed. The only exception is maybe the exhaust, headers make a little difference. If you are going to wheel it at all leave the stock intake on, and add a snorkel if you plan on using it as a boat.

There is no vg33et. ER yes, that is the supercharged Xterra/frontier variant. I put a "cold air intake" on mine. All it did was make noise, and reduce filtering efficiency. I put the stock air filter housing back in and sold the thing on ebay.

My 94 has almost half a million km on the original motor and I have no fuel smells from anywhere. I'm betting the hoses at the fuel rail just need the host clamps tightened. If in doubt, replaced the lines, they are cheap.

Almost sounds like a failing alternator or power steering pump.

I usually lift mine right behind the tension rod mounts and right in front of the lower link mounts.

I'm curious as to how it "blew up". Lots of blow by? Broken connecting rod? These engines have forged internals from the factory as they were designed to be boosted. (originally in the 300zx) It would be worth building a vg33 for it.

Most body shop supply places will mix paint and put it in a spray bomb for you. I even got them to mix the clear in for the rockers on mine. Mine is white though and fairly hard to match as well.

Get that side post battery out of there, and put the proper sized one with top posts in. It came with a top post battery originally. May want to replace the cables as well, it is likely causing the starting issue. The oil sensor wire is literally a 3 dollar fix with some wire and a spade connector as mentioned above. Replace the cam seals I bet that is the leak, usually the valve covers drip onto the exhaust. As for the ticking, if it is losing oil it is either burning or leaking. Leaking you can fix with parts. Burning is from age/wear and is much more costly to repair. I would run a thicker oil like a 10w40 or 15w40 and see if it slows down.

You could just sell them to help pay for the 33s.

I did notice an increase in power. But before that I had the stock exhaust which was repaired in sections with various spare pieces of pipe I was able to scrounge up. I have 33" tires and it does seem to hold speed easier on the highway. It's amazing what graduating college and getting a real job can do for the budget, lol.

Probably get 4k for it. Clean it up nice. Maybe fix that rust spot as well. I'd probably buy it if I didn't live on the opposite side of the continent. The issue you will have is many people who buy these now are just looking for something cheap to beat around in. You'll eventually find someone who is an enthusiast, or has some nostalgia associated with the pathfinder.

According to my amazon history, I ordered: PaceSetter 70-1197 Black Exhaust Header Don't do this. It is there to help emissions. I'm no hippy but if it is working fine, leave it alone. Besides you will have a code if it doesn't work.