adamzan

Don't get excited it's not installed yet lol. He says he is doing it tomorrow. I like it better without the faring as it doens't even match the contour of the pathy roof.

I would use 5w50 mobil1 synthetic, that is what I use in the summer on mine with 185k miles roughly converted from kms. Doesn't burn or leak a drop and I want to keep it that way.

So apparently they are allowed to lie to people? I also emailed them to ask and they said it does change the angle. With my past experience with those morons I am more inclined to believe what is posted on this forum. Here is a screenshot of their description: The hell with AC.

I don't know about the ticking but when you reved it, it sounds like the bearings in your idler pulley are gone.

I've never had that problem with partsource in canada. Though the computer has been wrong but the guy will usually let me keep he wrong part and give me the right one for free! They admit the computer system sucks and is never right for older/import vehicles. For example it says both inner tie rods are the same, which is BS. The threads are different on either side.

Wow I've never noticed that hose before, I should really check to see whether it is intact or not!

Mine just started doing this last week, funny it did'nt start until 300,000kms I just loosened the bolts and moved it a bit, problem solved.

I'm pretty sure the blocks are identical. Mr.Jim has his bored over, by how much I don't remember.

Well the exhaust I have now is 2" instead of the stock 1.5 or w/e it is. I have no leaks right now so maybe I will wait a bit and do some other stuff first.

Simon, grimgreg, and koveman, did you guys notice any power/gas mileage increases at all? I would like to get a set but it will take more than the sound to sell me on them.

Yes you can take the body off of the frame. Magregor did it to repair rebuild his frame. Pm him and maybe he can help you.

Torque converter?

You will need snap ring pliers, a philips screw driver for the bearing lock nut plate, socket set. 6mm allen key to remove the auto hub as well.

For those who have these headers, are you happy with them? I was looking into getting a set. I have a perfect exhaust right now but would love to give my pathy a little more pep and nice sound.

You gotta take the wheel hub off of the knuckle and take the rotor off of the hub so you can pound out the studs. Basically like doing a front brake job but one step further.

The striker plate thing on the floor of the truck that holds the hatch shut.

Funny I have the same tires and have the shake at the exact speeds you do. And it comes and goes. Maybe try a set of street oriented tires or something. I'm sure you could snag some off some truck at the dealership lol.

X2 the vent runs up into the engine bay.

Are you planning on upsizing yours?

For the o2 sensor if you let the truck run for a bit before you want to remove it, it will make taking it out much easier.

They were supposed to have 5x7 speakers all the way around.

I got the filter and mount for free from my dad, who got it from an engineer at work. The filter is a fleetguard HF6500. Maybe you could find the mount at a hydraulics shop?

Here is my setup. No harsh comments on the mount I am not happy with it either it's only temporary. Its better than zipties though. Filter: Cooler: Lines; they look close to the fan/belt but really they aren't. It's just the camera angle.. It has been about 200km and I can already feel a difference. You can't feel it shift from 3-4 at all even when cold. Also the torque lockup is like a hot knife threw butter. I have a happy transmission now!

If the o2 sensor is original it could definitely be causing the crappy mileage. I was getting about 15 highway with mine when it was bad.

Wow mine only idles up when the ac comes on.