adamzan

Wow I've never noticed that hose before, I should really check to see whether it is intact or not!

Mine just started doing this last week, funny it did'nt start until 300,000kms I just loosened the bolts and moved it a bit, problem solved.

I'm pretty sure the blocks are identical. Mr.Jim has his bored over, by how much I don't remember.

Well the exhaust I have now is 2" instead of the stock 1.5 or w/e it is. I have no leaks right now so maybe I will wait a bit and do some other stuff first.

Simon, grimgreg, and koveman, did you guys notice any power/gas mileage increases at all? I would like to get a set but it will take more than the sound to sell me on them.

Yes you can take the body off of the frame. Magregor did it to repair rebuild his frame. Pm him and maybe he can help you.

Torque converter?

You will need snap ring pliers, a philips screw driver for the bearing lock nut plate, socket set. 6mm allen key to remove the auto hub as well.

For those who have these headers, are you happy with them? I was looking into getting a set. I have a perfect exhaust right now but would love to give my pathy a little more pep and nice sound.

You gotta take the wheel hub off of the knuckle and take the rotor off of the hub so you can pound out the studs. Basically like doing a front brake job but one step further.

The striker plate thing on the floor of the truck that holds the hatch shut.

Funny I have the same tires and have the shake at the exact speeds you do. And it comes and goes. Maybe try a set of street oriented tires or something. I'm sure you could snag some off some truck at the dealership lol.

X2 the vent runs up into the engine bay.

Are you planning on upsizing yours?

For the o2 sensor if you let the truck run for a bit before you want to remove it, it will make taking it out much easier.

They were supposed to have 5x7 speakers all the way around.

I got the filter and mount for free from my dad, who got it from an engineer at work. The filter is a fleetguard HF6500. Maybe you could find the mount at a hydraulics shop?

Here is my setup. No harsh comments on the mount I am not happy with it either it's only temporary. Its better than zipties though. Filter: Cooler: Lines; they look close to the fan/belt but really they aren't. It's just the camera angle.. It has been about 200km and I can already feel a difference. You can't feel it shift from 3-4 at all even when cold. Also the torque lockup is like a hot knife threw butter. I have a happy transmission now!

If the o2 sensor is original it could definitely be causing the crappy mileage. I was getting about 15 highway with mine when it was bad.

Wow mine only idles up when the ac comes on.

The guy who did mine had a bottle with a piece of tubing hose clamped to the end of it. Worked great.

They are on opposite sides in the r50. Alternator is on passenger side and the ps pump is on the drivers side.

Have you checked your MAF sensor? You know how the wiring can be wiggled and it will work right again. Mine would go up and down then stall sometimes. I don't think it is only for cali vehicles as I have gotten it on my 95 XE here in canada. I think I remember you telling me the procedures for testing it. I had the catalytic converter replaced and it hasn't come back since. It used to come on every few months but it hasn't in a long time now since the replacement.

I know the 94-95 wd21s with the 31" package came with general tires. The parts truck judge had with the original tires (only 60,000kms on the truck) had general grabbers on it with an ancient date code. Mine has a 235/75/15 general ameritrac spare and I've seen several of these tires in the JY in the back of XE pathys. Also my 93 SE and 95 SE have bridgestone dessert dueler or something spares. Going on that, my assumption is bridgestone/firestone and general tire...

Plus the filter is smaller but I don't hear about people having many problems with the VG33