adamzan

You need to space out the striker plate with a couple washers under it.

If you don't do it everyday they will be fine.

the truck I test drove for a member here was sitting for 3 months when I went to test drive it. It was in mint condition but the brakes made noise for like 3/4 of the test drive until I was able to get it on the highway and smooth them out.

maf wiring

I only had a problem with mine once and it was because the "brakes" as nissan calls them in the hub was not installed properly so it would come of and the hub wouldn't work anymore. After finally figuring it out I have been using them without issue for a while now. If you wheel a lot, get manuals, if you drive it on the road most of the time and wheel once and a while you can probably stick with the autos.

I'm not sure I think I would change it if I were you. Though if money is an issue....

The front swaybar makes like no difference in articulation, I've tried with it off before and didn't really notice but with the rear off it really hugs the trail better. I hope to get some quick disconnects soon as I still drive a lot of highway and the body roll bothers me sometimes.

Because he has a wd21, and wants to know how wide an r50 console is for a potential swap, stupid.

Nice job mike. I miss my stabilizer but the bolts backed out and the threads are now farked.

These links may help people with the code 45 problem (I had the same thing a while back) http://www.justanswer.com/questions/3akke-i-have-a-1991-nissan-pathfinder-with-a-code-45-leaking-injector Nissan TSB about it: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/2paulm/2010-03-23_170349_TSB.pdf Another TSB: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/2paulm/2010-03-23_170148_poor_ground.pdf

It could be the a/c idler pulley. They are known to fail.

X2 I want one. I also find that when the maf wiring is "acting up" that the truck will hesitate accelerating in 1st causing the tranny to slam into second. When it starts doing that its not long after that it starts to stall out when braking around corners. Wiggling the wiring makes everything go back to normal again.

Can't you just put another vehicle on the sniffer and then put your truck into the computer.

Man I know quite a few people who never changed their timing belts. They just got lucky. I changed mine at 240,000kms. It's not like its going to snap exactly at the interval.

Yes they do have window locks but it will still let the drivers window go up and down.

My a/c compressor is original too. Don't see to many compressor failures on these rigs.

I think its the ice and water shield stuff right? It's a peel and stick kinda thing.

They are dirt cheap at the dealer. I paid 10 bucks for the one that goes to the drivers side rear wheel. Comes perfectly pre bent.

I don't remember my stock exhaust having any couplers on it...And it looks like that was cut or something. Maybe someone tried to steal your cat?

I got a message on facebook with the details for the services, and though I would post them for anyone local.

RIP Buddy, you were a great friend to me on here and on facebook, I will miss talking to you...

There should be a siren under the hood as well....

Could be partially plugged cat as my fathers r50 is doing the same. Stumbles when you take off but runs fine above a certain rpm. Also I had a really hard time getting it to pass emissions the second time as well.

Check your tie rods, ball joints, steering rack bushings, and the tire balancing. That is all I can think of on an r50 right now.

He has power locks, so he should be ok.