adamzan

Can you record a video of it.

Is the brake rotor dust shield bent or deformed at all. Mine made weird noises.

If the light on the dash doesn't come on, its not the vacuum hose. It's either the contacts in the steering wheel, or the brake pedal switch. Try disconnecting the switch and jumpering the connector. That is what I did and mine started working again. Test it out in an area where the road is empty.

91 and prior pathy's seem to rust less. Body wise they all rust the same but frame wise the 92-95 is the worst. Tungsten has a 4door 91 in new jersey and the frame is mint. And it's been in that state for over 10 years.

I still haven't been able to get mine perfectly level! It's a pain because after it settles its different again lol.

Maybe your right torsion bar is sagged. 4x4pathy94 had the same problem. He had the jgc springs too and the front being a hair lower really affected the rear too.

Paint it pink as a joke

I think they are actually 12mm and 14 mm bolts. Other than that it's exactly as jj says.

I got slotted rotors and the Akebono ceramics as well. I just did a 15,000km road trip and am glad I put those on before I left. I didn't have any brake fade in the mountains and it actually brakes better (well to me anyway) than a wd21 with the 4 wheel disc. (I have drum rear)

I've been using mobil1 and valvoline oils without issue. You can go 5-7k just change the filter halfway through

Just to add, his AC will not engage as well. I don't mean by lack of charge but the button doesn't seem to light up even. The lights don't work on the module and the JY did the same. It must be something else.

Definitely replace the wires, they can develop resistance over time, and also as they age any bit of moisture can hinder their performance.

I ran 31x10.5 on the steelies they are 15x6 inch rims. I didn't have any problems and they wore evenly but they did look ballooned.

My '95 Is about to hit 330,000kms. It had 316,000 when I left for a cross country trip that I just returned from today. Not one issue except for a cracked windshield.

X4 Happened to me a few times this past winter.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1316833&parttype=6557 Compare that with your local dealer prices.

XE r50s were not badged. If it is in fact an XE it is a rare one like my dads because the 5 speed was only supposed to be available on the SE. Then again Nissan is on crack with their trim levels.

I have the same cb and it's mounted to the bottom of the glove box

I agree, as much as I liked my stabilizer when I had it, I had an outer tie rod that got extremely worn and went unnoticed until I heard it clunking. I would said if you want one check your components for play often.

Check your flex lines as well, one could be bulging out when you press on the brakes. Also you gotta bleed the abs thing like 5 times its a pain to get the air out.

You are supposed to bleed furthest from the MC. Like this. RR, RL, ABS, FR, FL. That is what it says in the FSM

Also the switch itself under the dash could have failed. Mine did, I tried all of the "common" things people posted here, to no avail, and turns out the switch was in pieces internally. Also the vacuum line doesn't have anything to do with the rest of the vacuum system there is one line from a little pump to the actuator, nothing else.

Sounds like torque converter. This has happened to 2 members that I know of on here. TerranoNZ and 4x4pathy94.

You live close to englewood? There is a member there who knows pathys well and could probably help you out. PM Tungsten.

The control arm should just separate. You may have to give it a few taps to break it free but it should come loose! You'll know when it does too, make sure to support the LCA so it doesn't fall down fast and scare you like it did to me the first time I did it. You see the part of the knuckle where the threaded part goes through? Hit that a few times pretty hard with a sledge hammer, that got mine loose. If not you'll have to get a puller A pickle for is used to separate tie rods/ball joints. It's the quick and dirty way of doing it. I use that method because its faster but only when I am replacing parts because it ruins the rubber grease boots. Here is a pickle fork: Here is a tie rod separator: This is similar to mine but they all do the same job.