adamzan

Maybe your right torsion bar is sagged. 4x4pathy94 had the same problem. He had the jgc springs too and the front being a hair lower really affected the rear too.

Paint it pink as a joke

I think they are actually 12mm and 14 mm bolts. Other than that it's exactly as jj says.

I got slotted rotors and the Akebono ceramics as well. I just did a 15,000km road trip and am glad I put those on before I left. I didn't have any brake fade in the mountains and it actually brakes better (well to me anyway) than a wd21 with the 4 wheel disc. (I have drum rear)

I've been using mobil1 and valvoline oils without issue. You can go 5-7k just change the filter halfway through

Just to add, his AC will not engage as well. I don't mean by lack of charge but the button doesn't seem to light up even. The lights don't work on the module and the JY did the same. It must be something else.

Definitely replace the wires, they can develop resistance over time, and also as they age any bit of moisture can hinder their performance.

I ran 31x10.5 on the steelies they are 15x6 inch rims. I didn't have any problems and they wore evenly but they did look ballooned.

My '95 Is about to hit 330,000kms. It had 316,000 when I left for a cross country trip that I just returned from today. Not one issue except for a cracked windshield.

X4 Happened to me a few times this past winter.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1316833&parttype=6557 Compare that with your local dealer prices.

XE r50s were not badged. If it is in fact an XE it is a rare one like my dads because the 5 speed was only supposed to be available on the SE. Then again Nissan is on crack with their trim levels.

I have the same cb and it's mounted to the bottom of the glove box

I agree, as much as I liked my stabilizer when I had it, I had an outer tie rod that got extremely worn and went unnoticed until I heard it clunking. I would said if you want one check your components for play often.

Check your flex lines as well, one could be bulging out when you press on the brakes. Also you gotta bleed the abs thing like 5 times its a pain to get the air out.

You are supposed to bleed furthest from the MC. Like this. RR, RL, ABS, FR, FL. That is what it says in the FSM

Also the switch itself under the dash could have failed. Mine did, I tried all of the "common" things people posted here, to no avail, and turns out the switch was in pieces internally. Also the vacuum line doesn't have anything to do with the rest of the vacuum system there is one line from a little pump to the actuator, nothing else.

Sounds like torque converter. This has happened to 2 members that I know of on here. TerranoNZ and 4x4pathy94.

You live close to englewood? There is a member there who knows pathys well and could probably help you out. PM Tungsten.

The control arm should just separate. You may have to give it a few taps to break it free but it should come loose! You'll know when it does too, make sure to support the LCA so it doesn't fall down fast and scare you like it did to me the first time I did it. You see the part of the knuckle where the threaded part goes through? Hit that a few times pretty hard with a sledge hammer, that got mine loose. If not you'll have to get a puller A pickle for is used to separate tie rods/ball joints. It's the quick and dirty way of doing it. I use that method because its faster but only when I am replacing parts because it ruins the rubber grease boots. Here is a pickle fork: Here is a tie rod separator: This is similar to mine but they all do the same job.

When you remove the tie rod you can do it 3 ways (that I know of at least). 1 is use a pickle fork but that will damage the boot on the tie rod and then you will need a new one. 2 you can get a tie rod removal tool for about 10 dollars or if your part store has a loan a tool program that works too. 3 and the way I used to do till I bought the tool, was to smack the knuckle where the tie rod is seated, this will usually pop it up. A mini sledge is good for this. Yes you can remove the 4 bolts and separate the ball joint that way, be careful as they like to break and if they do it's new ball joint time, though it probably wouldn't hurt. Also you will want to remove the shock absorber and the brake caliper as well. Wire it up out of the way to not damage the flex line. I'm sure you know this but you must also remove the locking hub, and the snap ring that is exposed when you remove the hub. I would break the 6mm bolts on the hub free before jacking up the truck because it is easier. Also make SURE the allen key is seated all the way into the bolt as I have almost ruined a couple. I usually lightly tap the allen key in with a hammer. HTH

Why does it even matter the frame rusts from the inside out anyways. I just wash mine out frequently and give it a dusting of fluid film (thanks simon for telling me about that one) and the rot has been kept to a minimum in the past 3 years. I gave it a coat of rust paint 2 years ago and its still on there and the only rust spots are around the holes you stick the hose in.

Check MAF and o2

Do you have auto climate control? I think its the ambient air temp sensor.

Call them and tell them you are going to call the BBB if they don't fix your issue. I did the same with a guy who wouldn't give a deposit back. They suddenly seem very cooperative afterwords...