adamzan

How about one of these: http://www.12oclocklabs.com/ I think I'm gonna get one.

This is the second time I have heard of this. When I bought my parts 95 the guy told me that sometimes it chugs in reverse. I drove it a bit before buying and never got it to do it so I'm not sure if it was engine or tranny related.

For the door ajar it is common for the rear hatch latch to not be pushing hard enough to turn the light off. The speedo and CEL coming on sounds like the speed sensor connection could be loose. It is on the side of the transfercase underneath the truck. Passenger side IIRC.

There actually isn't a thread on trans swaps here so I'll give you some tips from my experience helping brandon, robb. -Access the Torque converter bolts through the starter hole. It's tricky but it works. -Jack up the truck nice and high (or use your mechanics hoist). -Remove your exhaust, since you have headers remove the headers and Y pipe. -When you take the torsion bars out be careful and MARK THE SPLINES. -You don't need to remove the front diff just loosen it. -Have a friend watch the top few tranny bolts it makes it a lot easier. -Watch out that tranny is a heavy biatch. -remove driveshafts and mark the way they go. -drain the tranny before you start. and unhook all the lines/electrical @!*% and cable.

How long have the boots been torn. Since on the r50 the cv's spin all the time I would just get new shafts as the grease has more than likely been thrown out by centrifugal force. Parts store shafts should be ok.

I don't see any hate? I was just messing with you bro. You know I love your rig.

I may go that route as I have access to them and I've used them at work numerous times. Feel better now?

Calm down kids. Why don't you look in the FSM they have a diagram explaining what every plug is for.

Reserved

My dad has a 2000 pathfinder 5 speed and it has 270k on the original clutch and it still shifts perfect.

I have slotted rotors and ceramic pads and I noticed a big difference in how the truck brakes, especially when towing. I put them on just before my 17k road trip across North america this summer. There was very little brake dust and no brake fade in the mountains. I have drums in the rear so I can't comment on rear discs though.

One piece of advice, if your exhaust is original/rusty I would just cut it off instead of pissing around trying to grind out the Y pipe bolts as it is a pita and is just easier to spend the 150 on a new Y pipe. This was my experience when helping another member here with his. Also the haynes manual is a piece of crap for this procedure. I would use the FSM.

For your door ajar problem the issue is in the rear hatch. you need to space out the catch at the bottom with some washers. common problem but easily fixed. I would think that if your CEL comes on it will store a code in the ecu. In the garage section there is a how to on how to check them. Even if the light is off it will remember the codes. I'm sure it'll help you diagnose the issue.

Looks great. I love how you have a lot of weights on one tire and none on the other haha.

Get a new o-ring, and unplug the 02 sensor and see if it runs better.

I have the same seal that appears to be leaking. Also a good time to change out my faulty abs sensor.

Well its been over 6 months since I've installed my filter and I am going to change it in the next couple of days. When I do I will cut it apart and post pictures of what it has collected. I also got a temp gauge today and will install it tomorrow if I can find a T fitting.

Yeah it is really hard on the older ones. On the mpfi pathys is right in front of you and takes 5 min to change. I have 200k miles and mine is original. Maybe I should change it.

Could be o2 sensors starting to give out. They don't always set codes. You could try scanning for "pending" codes. They don't throw a SES.

87-92 pathys take a 5 IIRC inch in the front and 6x9 in the rear 93-95s have 5x7 and tweeters all around.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23822&view=&hl=manuel%20trans&fromsearch=1 And I know this is for an r50 but it should be more or less the same. http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/Transmission%20Conversion%20Manual_final.pdf

What I have done is gotten some of that rust converter from CT and it seems to have worked as my rear frame near the bumper is bad but it has not gotten worse over the winter. All you can do is just keep plating it eventually you'll have the old frame encased in new metal and you'll be good. I know its a bitch but they are too good of a truck to let die like that. X2

That's awesome. Sounds sick dude!

If you've got that much work into it I would keep it as they last forever and if you can keep ahead of the frame rust (keep the frame clean inside and spray with fluid film) you have a very very cheap vehicle to operate other than fuel. If you can keep the inside of the frame clean for the oil to reach you should be ok. I have considered filling mine with some moisture resistant foam but I am not sure yet.

So sometimes the truck takes like 8 turns of the engine to start. Usually when it does this is when it sits over night or when its warm. Also when it starts the idle kinda wavers back and forth a couple times then stabilizes. When you shut it off and leave it for like an hour and come back it will start up with less than one roll... It has all the tuneup stuff done, including fuel filter. It's been doing this for a while but its starting to get annoying. The ecu has no codes and the gas mileage is still good. I'm clueless.