adamzan

I agree that they are expensive and I have access to a plasma cutter but what if your frame is so far gone (like my 93) that you would have to build your own frame? I would much rather spend 300 for something in the right dimensions and have the cross members in the right spots than attempt it myself. Knowing me the rear axle would sit side ways.

You need longer bolts. The shop that did my alignment put them in for me so I didn't have to do it myself. With the amount of shims it needs with the lift there is nowhere near enough thread engagement. That's why they back out. Stock are M14x1.5 pitch 50mm long and the ones they installed are M14x1.5 pitch 60mm long. Grade 10.9, of course.

You don't have to replace the snap rings. I've removed/installed mine many times and they are still fine.

I have a really hard time believing that all 4 rims are bent. The tires could just be @!*%, though. I have 4 WD21 Lego wheels with good Bridgestone dueler AT's on them sitting at home, if you wanna try them out sometime, and see if it cures the problem...

I would say that he means it probably holds shifts longer and feels slower because of the bigger/heavier tires.

Your headgasket is gone. At least that's what I was always told that's what that means.

I need one of those so badly. Doesn't loot too hard to make.

Yep. Passenger foot heat duct. The plug is for the heated seat harness.

You can use the blue nissan relays. They are weather proof. The numbers aren't the same but it is easy to figure out and is better than the ****** black ones that you have to wrap half a roll of tape around to prevent corroding from water.

Yep, both my SE's have leather. One is a 93 the other is a 95.

You can tighten the box a bit. Loosen the locknut at the top and turn the set screw 1/8-1/2 turn max and then tighten the lock nut again. Take it for a drive and make sure it doesn't bind. I would go with 1/8 turns and then test each time. 1/8 of a turn was enough to make my box with 200k on it good again.

Awesome. Gonna order a full set in the spring!

Sounds like it could be the tensioner going out. It is on the left side. That is something I would make top priority.

I have seen a 4 (my 95) and 5 (2000) notch version. With the 4 it should be in the middle of the 2 inner notches and with the 5 it should be right on the middle one.

Steering stops? Have you greased them?

I would make sure your battery connections are clean and tight. Then measure the voltage at the battery with the truck running. you should have at least 13 volts.

It happens to mine from time to time. Sometimes it even stalls. I need to re do the wiring with a better ground (it is the problem). I'll post up a how-to when I do it.

actually i bought the good ones at wal mart and the cheap ass ones at Canadian tire.

I didn't mean to come off as being an ass its just I hear this from people everywhere. As much as I try not to say stuff like this; I do find that it is mostly domestics that have this flushing then death issue. I have 3 wd21s, 2 of them have had annual tranny flushes since my ownership. One since 2005, the other since 2007. The same thing happened to my friend with his dodge stratus. But hey its a dodge stratus so it was probably doomed from the start. I apologize if I offended you though. I'm pretty sure it is just a coincidence.

That don't flush an auto tranny thing is BS. My fluid was as black as toby's ass and I had it flushed the week I bought the truck. Over 3 years, 100,000kms, and a cross America road trip later and it is still running fine. And that is not the first time I've heard of a Chrysler tranny failing at only 3 years old. They are junk. The ford is surprising.

Yes those are the correct hubs and it is a set of two. I don't know where to get them cheaper but that seems like an ok price to me. You might try www.4x4parts.com. Yes when you lock them you just use the lever inside the truck. Its really a personal preference and most people who off road the truck usually prefer manuals. If the auto hubs are working properly and you just use it in the snow you should be ok.

So did you take it back to CT yet?

Wiggle your maf sensor wiring near the maf when it does it. Common for higher mileage paths.

Sometimes, especially if your truck is higher mileage the brakes can be worn and the hubs will not lock. Though it won't grind as they just slip. If you jack up your truck up so all 4 wheels are off the ground you can start the truck, put it in 4wd and then see if your hubs are engaging. What I do to make sure the hubs lock in is, put it in 4hi, then roll forward a few feet, then go and do what I'm gonna do. The grinding sound is usually the cv's spinning faster than the wheel while the hub is trying to lock.

What I did was put the front end on jack stands then use the floor jack to move the LCA into position.