adamzan

Yeah mine has about 219,000 miles. I have the run in procedure garret posted saved on my pc somewhere. My friend has some royal purple break in oil I think that would be good right? I will inspect all the parts in there and replace whatever I find worn. So I guess the best bet is either clevite or the nissan ones. I don't expect whisper quiet at this age but at least not the tick tick tick tick that is coming from my drivers side wheel well.

The AC coils don't settle much at all. Well they haven't for me lol.

Would it still hit the truck if it had a 3" body lift like I do?

Mobil1 for 25 dollars? It is 56.99 for a 4.4 liter jug here!!

Since you have 4 wheel drive there is no dust cap or cotter pin. You have to remove the 4wd locking hub which is held on by 6 6mm allen bolts. Then there is a snap ring and some parts that slide on, make sure to install them in the right order. You have to remove the bearing lock nut plate (should be 2 philips screws) and then the locknut itself (if you don't have the proper tool you can use a hammer and a screwdriver to tap it loose {it shouldn't be that tight} and then the whole hub assembly will slide off. The inner bearing seal is on the side that sits against the CV axle (obviously) I use a screwdriver to pry mine out. Don't reuse them. I would recommend breaking the rotor bolts free before taking it off because it is much easier that way. The outer grease seal is the locknut and the 4wd hub. There is an O-ring on the hub, don't lose it! The tools you should need are: 12 14 17 and 19mm sockets 6mm Allen socket or Allen key Hammer and screwdriver or bearing locknut tool

Where do you find dexron II anymore? I've been using the motomaster ATF which says it is compatible with the nissan matic fluid so that is good enough for me.

What brand? I believe KYB has a lifetime warranty. As does monroe and rancho.

So I am going to change the lifters on the pathy soon because it is sounding like a sewing machine and even other people have commented on it lol. What else should I change in there while I have it open. I know I will need an intake gasket set and a valve cover gasket set. Anything else? I saw parts dinosaur has lifters for 10 dollars but alkorahils nissan parts site has them for 16.21. I was going to use the lifters out of my parts truck but I don't think that would be a good idea.

Holy @!*%, glad you are ok, the pathy can be replaced! It's too bad that thing was in such nice shape.

I just laugh at people who have those stickers. I don't think that repels theft at all If they want it they will take it. The guy across the street from me has that on his colorado.

Maybe you should sand it all down and start over.

Oh right, you have the 3.5L. I have only seen a VG30/33 without the trans on and I know you don't need to take the pan off on it. 400 sounds like a pretty good price. Maybe I should drive down there and have him swap my new transmission in haha!

Well either way you are just masking problems. You could always change the seal yourself. I know pulling the transmission sounds like a big job but on an r50 it isn't that bad.

If that is an actual picture on the left then yes they should fit. They look like the same ones I have.

I use 5w50 in the summer because I was under the impression that a little thicker oil would be better for such an old truck. I'm probably wrong but I have been doing it since I have owned it and it runs very well and loses no oil between changes. For the RMS leak try some Lucas stop leak. I think Simon on here used to use it on his old pathfinder with good results. http://www.lucasoil.ca/products/product.asp?id=35&cat=HeavyDuty

Since for some reason that part number is not available to the Canadian dealers (I even had the guy look through all the parts lists and we couldn't find it) for some stupid reason, I fixed it myself. I took the connector and wire off of my parts truck and spliced it onto mine (the wires had come out of the connector) while doing this I soldered an extra ground wire into the harness and attached it to that ground that is on the rad support, it goes directly to the alternator. I have not had this waving idle/stalling/running rich MAF BS ever since.

Shoot the escort to release your anger lol. The maf repair harness can be found at nissan, there is a thread here somewhere in this section with the part number also.

Jeez you are bored at 3:00 am aren't you? Here is mine Fluids Engine Oil - Castrol Syntec 5w50 in summer and 5w30 in the winter Coolant - Motomaster "longlife" (it is a yellow colored coolant) ATF - Valvoline Maxlife MTF - N/A Brake Fluid - Napa DOT 3 Power Steering Fluid - Has probably never been changed (yikes!) Front Diff - Has also never been changed yet (yikes again) Rear Diff - Castrol Hypoy C 80w90 (for LSD) Transfer Case - Motomaster ATF [*]Filters Oil Filter - Quaker State (purolator) or Mobil1 or Motomaster (Whatever is in stock) Air Filter - Motomaster In-Cabin Air Filter - N/A Fuel Filter - Napa Gold ATF Filter - OEM Nissan filter and gasket [*]Change intervals Fluids Engine Oil - Every 5000 km's on the nose Coolant - Every 2 years ATF - Every year or 30k whatever comes first (usually a year) MTF - N/A Brake Fluid - Every time I change the brake pads Power Steering Fluid - Has probably never been changed (I should probably get on that) Front Diff - Same as P/S fluid Rear Diff - End of every wheeling season Transfer Case - End of every wheeling season [*]Filters Oil Filter - Every oil change, sometimes even at 2500kms if they have filters on sale! Air Filter - Every 20k regardless of condition In-Cabin Air Filter - N/A Fuel Filter - Every 2 years ATF Filter - Every 60k, towncivllian is correct it is more like a screen (but you should still replace it not clean it). So I have added an external filter. I use the Valvoline grease in mine because that is what we have here (apparently someone bought a case a while ago). I lube the drive shafts every other oil change and the front end including the uca's and idler arm every oil change. My pathfinder has 365,857kms on it and runs smooth as silk. I do need to change the front diff and P/S fluid though. But I am having a hard time getting the front diff fill plug off.

I got my code scanner at princess auto for like 40 bucks. Its just a basic one but it works. I think part source loans them out too. (you have to give them a credit card but you can do it in the parking lot so its not a big deal)

If there is a whining noise it sounds like it could be low on fluid. Check that asap!

The stock air intake is surprisingly decent at preventing water from getting in. I've been in water over the hood a couple times and it didn't get wet at all. I think entering the water properly is what helps.

Why is he swapping engines? is something wrong with it

The easiest way to find out which line is which is to put the hoses in a bucket and turn the truck on for a split second.

Took my dads car50 to montreal a couple weeks ago and it averaged 21mpg that is with crazy Quebec traffic. No a/c on at all though. Try to use cruise on the highway its a big help.

They have 3 wires.