adamzan

I had a similar issue with the sensor. The truck wouldn't go into OD and the reverse lights didn't work. Replacing the switch solved the issue.

I had a broken hose going to the bpt valve and the CEL did come on and I had an "egr function" code. Just letting you know. IMO pulling the bulb is dumb b/c what if something else breaks and you wont' know.

If it still passes emissions and they don't glow red and the truck isn't down on power, they're fine.

No offense or anything, but you really need to research more before you barge into a thread like that. Yes you are supposed to remove the drive shaft. No the interval is not 15k it is 30k like stated by the lubeman. The suggestion to loop the lines is to see if a clogged cooler is starving the transmission of fluid. Honestly I don't think that is the issue but that is my opinion.

Could be a blown torque converter. I have seen this a couple times on wd21s. You're going along fine and then boom you've got nothing except park.

Could you just rob the r50s auto shifter and hook it up to your cable?

As someone who lives where it gets pretty damn cold (-30C), this is the second winter I've had my rad cooler bypassed, and the tranny still warms up just fine. My transmission was not exactly in the best shape when I bought the truck (didn't find out until later), but changing the fluid regularly like jamesrich does, has helped string it along. The only thing I notice in the winter is that if I don't let the truck run for at least 5 minute when it's this cold, that the tranny will slam hard when putting it into drive or reverse. Like dennis, when I went to clean my stock cooler, it flowed fine as well...

All that and he uses fram oil filters.

screw jeeps

My new to me pathy at one time had a power antenna (SE model) but the fenders were replaced years ago and they put a standard fender on, so it has some aftermarket "for nissan fenders" adapter on it so you can put any old black screw on mast on. I honestly think it looks retarded and would rather have an oem one. Either that, or find a power antenna that fits the standard antenna fender, since I'm kinda OCD that way lol.

For the automatic, it wasn't just a switch, it is a sensor thing that is bolted to the side of the tranny, and has a little lever that gets moved when you shift gears. I guess it is technically a switch, but it does it all in one part. I just changed it on my new pathy.

Maybe they put lucas oil treatment in it

That's great, thanks a lot!

Well the automatic used the neutral safety switch (called the range sensor) for the reverse lights, neutral saftey lockout and to let it know it was in drive. You'll need to find the right wires at the connector and attach them to the right switches I'm guessing. The 4x4 light should be a switch on the side of the transfer case somewhere.

Just a quick question do you know what size/thread pitch the bolts for the pin are? I lost mine a while back and need new hardware. thanks.

The power antenna and standard mast fenders are different unfortunately.

Dude there is going to be bump steer no matter what you do if it is lifted. You have never actually wheeled the truck on a TRAIL. Rough roads don't count. I didn't believe someone when they told me that you could blow up the stock CL on one trail ride until it happened to me. And my tires would toe in and out over 1/4 inch when it was up on the hoist. That was two guys one at each tire, so much play in the CL and IA it was scary as hell to drive home. Come up here and I'll take you wheeling. Then you'll see. My truck had a perfect front end even after I railed it through every pot hole, rutted country road and construction zone around. It didn't mess up until I went on actual trails and bounced it off of rocks. Now I've never bent a TRE, but I have been through 3 sets of lower ball joints and 2 sets of uppers. I've also changed the center link twice, new idler once, then rebuilt my stock one and put it back in with the bronze bushings, which already have play. Also rust isn't an issue if you lube things regularly like you're supposed to. But of course you're right, the rest of us don't know what we're talking about.

If the mechanic can't get the bolt out he shouldn't be workin' on cars! It really isn't that hard if you have the right tools. I see you're in brockville, to bad you're not close to kemptville I know a good mechanic who doesn't rape on labor rates.

I don't know about BC, but in Onterrible it is illegal not to have working license plate lights. I got a warning ticket for it last year. Though I still haven't fixed them LOL.

31x10.5x15

There is a proper tool for this job, you can get it online for 12 dollars, or go to a local parts store and get a 4 prong one and cut off 2 of the prongs for even cheaper. Makes it 1000x easier to do the job and you can set the bearing preload properly. Like pathfounder, when I repacked the bearings for the first time I had to keep tightening it after a few hundred km because I didn't have the tool.

So how does it drive on the street? Do you ever take it on the highway? Just wondering how well it's road manners are.

Today I changed the rear brake pads. These were still good right?

The fsm has a spec of how much play should be in the wheel, it could be the guy at the shop is a youngin' who's only used to dealing with rack and pinion based cars lol.

Looks perfect to me.