adamzan

We've had those standards here for a while, and the dyno test as well. Mine had a full tune up and what not, and still wouldn't pass hydro carbons. A new cat was the answer unfortunately.

Maybe try a body shop supply place? There is a place I go to here, kind of pricey but their @!*% is good.

Same here, friggin whiney americans!

That sounds like an exhaust leak.

The mint ones have been scarce here for years. Nice ride.

I'm gonna let the pictures do the talking, does this help?

There should be 40 teeth between the two cam marks, and 43 between the LH (drivers side) and the crank marks. The ignition timing should be 15 degrees BTDC give or take 2 degrees. DO NOT screw with the distributor until you confirm the belt is on right. You can reuse the coolant as long as you drain it into a clean container. I reused some of mine and I put it through a coffee filter. My father had a 2000 pathfinder and the belt was changed at a shop, and when he got it back (actually I picked it up), it ran like @!*% and had no power. I took it back twice and they swore up and down it was fine. I eventually took it apart myself and the crank/cam count was off by one tooth. It had a flashing CEL (misfire) at idle only but once you drove it went solid.

Was just on rock auto. Timken part # 228410 When you look in the description under Engine>Crankshaft Seal you will see it says rear or front. For what it's worth, I bought mine at the Nissan dealer for a whopping 45 dollars. I didn't want to but I've heard sometimes aftermarket seals don't last very long.

If the timing belt was put on correctly, there should be no need to adjust the distributor at all. If your new wires/cap don't solve the problem, I would check the timing with a timing light. If it is off you may be off a tooth.

Did you bleed the clutch dampener? It's on the passenger side of the firewall. Follow the line from the master cyl and you'll see it.

Mine was the same, on both my trucks.

Where you will really notice the e-fan is in the summer with the a/c on. You won't have the massive drag with the fan clutch going full out trying to cool the truck at idle/city speeds.

One came on the spare tire of my pathy. Was handy for that fskc stick who dinged my door once.

I see you live in Gatineau. You should come wheeling with us sometime. But leave the weed at home.

I bought 5 cragar soft 8 steel wheels for 250 dollars, and free shipping from summit racing. They are a great deal IMO.

The diff isn't really "Hard" to take out. It is just awkward and heavy.

I used 5/32" line and it worked fine.

Drive it easier? Take off the 33" mud tires and run stock size when not wheeling? Fix exhaust leaks and bad sensors? Make sure the timing is good? With my new to me '94 I'm averaged 21mpg on the way back from florida. Around town it's been getting 16ish. This one seems to have a lot more power too.

Change all of the vac lines. It's an easy thing to do and will eliminate any problems in that area for a long time.

Screw 31s go with 235s, you'll have all sorts of power!

I've taken a couple of pathy gas tanks out and in both cases there was no "crap" in the bottom of the tank. I'm starting to think it is one of those automotive myths.

On my 95 there wasn't much done by the PO. But my 94 that I have now, the guy told me he had the manifold studs fixed at a shop. I looked and I can see bolts in there instead of studs, and some of them I don't see the grade stamped like you do with metric bolts but rather the three lines which indicate a grade 5 standard size bolt They also welded the rear bumper brackets to the frame because of the body lift, and poorly installed a 7 way trailer harness.

Sounds like your DRL module is taking a crap. It's a common problem, the solder joints crack.

How was it? I'm going to have to do the same thing soon, I've done regular drum brakes before but these look more complicated.

Actual metal patch? Or cheap bondo "rust out in one snow fall" repair lol.