adamzan

mid year 92 is when the box type changed i believe

No wonder 'mericans are so fat.

Hey now, don't go painting everyone with the same brush. There are some search nazis here but you're going to get that with any forum dude.

Mine are 15x8's with 4" backspace which is supposed to be "neutral". No rubbing issues and it drives fine.

Is the door handle sticking up when you pull on it.

If it was running fine before you changed the belt you put it on wrong. If it was set right you wouldn't have to mess with the distributor at all. That is, unless you took the distributor out.

How would you tension the water pump belt then?

If you could find a jy truck with that section thats good you can cut it out and splice it into yours but you'll need a welder.

That is one of the dumber things I've read on here in a while.

Not that again

Tighten it till it stops. New belts stretch in after a while and sometimes require a couple adjustments.

I didn't really think the new bushings were all that expensive when I did mine, though I don't know your budget. Although mine were just starting to have some play at 190k miles that is pretty good compared to most cars. I take it you hacked all the old rubber out somehow?

It`s for fuel economy.

From my 1995 owners manual it says if the transmission does this to turn the ignition off and wait 3 seconds and then turn it back on. This worked for me when mine did it. You'll know if it worked if the power light stops flashing.

That's what you get for buying a sony deck. Honestly, they aren't the best.

This ^. You've done a tranny swap you should be able to handle a timing belt service.

Mine does that all the time, I put it back to 2hi but the 4x4 light is still on and you can still spin all 4 tires unless you rock it back and forth or put it from drive to neutral and back. Especially when it is really cold out.

Personally I would not get one from a junkyard ford because you don't know how filled with crap it is...Just buy a new one they aren't that expensive. For what it's worth, I bought my pathy with 210,000kms and now has 380,000 (around 230k miles). Tranny had intermittent reverse issues, but resolved that with a few good flushes. I got lucky. I added a cooler and filter. I've beat the crap out of my transmission (towing heavy loads) and it is still working fine. Though the shifts aren't as nice as they used to be I just attribute it to age.

It thins out the oil and makes it dirty real fast. I wouldn't put seafoam in my vehicle but that is my opinion.

Looks like your thermostat is stuck, had the exact same issue on mine. As for the grounds, mine have been broken for years now and I have not noticed any ill effects...I plan on re attaching them or just replacing them but I haven't had time. They originally connected to the manifold heat shield bolts. Ever use the rotate feature in adobe reader??

I had a problem where mine was taking too long for the oil pressure to come up. I was running a napa gold filter...I switched to the cheapest one I could find (fram orange can of death) and surprisingly the problem went away. Either I had a defective filter or they limit flow I don't know. Now I use either oem or purolator. This is not my opinion, I am just sharing my experience.

It's called canada and we deal with the cold here although -49 is rare we do see -40 a few times a year where I am. I agree, check the cylinder head temp sensor.

That 2nd radiator is your A/C condenser.

Mine used to do that, except it wouldn't die. When I checked the codes I got an injector code. Check the codes because even if the CEL is off now the code will still be saved in the ECU.

I recall reading about an upgraded transmission controller to fix this shift flare problem. The transmission is actually the same as the one in the xterra, but the bell housing is different to match the vq35.