adamzan

My parts hoard has saved me several times lately. Torsion bars for my Xterra, one let go. Found I had a nearly new oem set I bought off of a guy 15 years ago who fitted aftermarket bars on his. Perfect, free repair! Fan clutch went on the X, ripped the one off my old 94 wd21 that wasn't that old, it looked the same so I put it on.

I have had this same problem but find it is the brand that makes a difference. That or there is a burr or something on the spindle stopping it. But usually it'll get past the point it's stuck at and be fine.

I was surprised how long the one in my X ran after it ingested the drivers side catalytic converter. I drove it for like 10-20k just having to add a litre of oil every fill up of the gas tank lmao.

I'll be doing mine when I replace the rad support. Might see if ol' daddy nissan still sells em. Had really bad luck with aftermarket parts lately. Also planning on converting my square tooth 91 engine in my 95 to the proper teeth.

I had this happen before too. There seems to be multiple seals listed as cam/crank for this engine. I ordered 2 cam seals and they were different, only one fit. Of course they gave me a hard time about returning the one that was wrong.

Good luck man, I have to do this job on my 1995, luckily I have the whole front clip off right now, easy access!

Take an old margarine tub or something like that and cut the side out, roll it up and stick it into the centre of the seal, slide it over the crank and then slide the seal over it and onto the crank. This is how I've always done them.

Some people do delete the coolant lines to the intake. Where you live it probably doesn't get that cold so it might not matter. My friend deleted them on his rig here in Canada and then wondered why it would run like @!*% when it was -20 and had low oil pressure on cold starts.

The aftermarket belts are fine on these, I've used gates, dayco, continental, and mitsuboshi without issue. Bando was the OE manufacturer. In 2020 I put a complete OEM timing/waterpump kit on my Xterra, the water pump is already dribbling started in 2022, I don't drive it much so have ignored it, but that was an OEM part... I think it came from Mexico. I don't think the OE parts are that good anymore unless they're old stock from Japan. I'm sure you've finished the job by now but yeah...

Are you running a 3.3 now? They're just M10 studs, or M8 on the VG30. I opted to use bolts when I put the headers on.

There is a 2 door I see around here, very rarely and it looks to be very clean. I suspect it is driven sparingly and not at all in the winter. There were a few others I used to see driven by elderly people, also pretty mint. I found one of them in the junkyard and took as many body panels as I could haha, they were the same colour as my old 94. Where I live people tend to dump cars and get a new one at the first problem or sign of rust, so they disappeared pretty quick. I used to see them all the time 15-20 years ago, in various conditions.

It was always hard up here, most part stores are not like the ones in the states, like O'Reilly or whatever where you can still get a fuel pump for your 72 cutlass and it'll be in stock. When I bought my first wd21 in 2005, even things like brake pads were always "special order". Now that I have to rebuild the front end of mine after a collision (lady ran off the road and into my parked wd21), it has been really hard. It'll be over a year now and I still don't have all the parts I need. Rockauto is a godsend for us Canadians. For example the local store told me the fan clutch for my X is discontinued (it's not, actually), found the same exact brand on RA, for 40% less than the store had a list price, even after shipping. As for the A/C Comp, I'm still miffed they want you to hack up the truck's wiring harness to fit the compressor. I know it's just an old truck, but still, that stuff annoys me.

Not even affordable, there isn't one aftermarket at all. Kind of ridiculous I can get one for a 1948 ford but not a nissan.

Here are some pics. Hope this helps. @Osiris489

So the bottom of that round disc with that blue label on it, there is a small pipe, it joins to that pipe you removed with a small piece of vacuum line.

Here is a crappy pic of where it is... I'll try and get a better one later https://imgur.com/a/doAuhtK

It's 100 percent for the EGR, to connect to the BPT valve. Goes in this hole here. Then there is this little disc thing it that connects to that pipe with short 1.5" piece of rubber hose.

NP, there were some other editions like Chilkoot and Klondike in Canada, not sure if the US had an equivalent one but they were just XE with some extra stuff and decals down the side.

Unbadged is generally an XE on the R50, only SE and LE had a badge. This was told to me way back in the day from a dealer service manager, like 20 years ago lol.

90-93 should be the same wiring but 94/95 had a "supplement" diagram package for the changes.

I have a working wiper out of my 1994, I could ship it to you.

Check the wiring from the truck body to the tailgate if you haven't. It is kind of common where the door opens and closes for the wires to break and possibly short. Or your wiper motor itself could have a short. I forget what else is on that circuit at the moment but you'll have to check all of them. Does the fuse blow even if you don't try to use the wiper or mirrors?

That doesn't sound good... Is there any oil in it? It sounds a little deeper tone than a lifter would make. It sounds like it has no oil pressure.

Always nice to have a win. It must be running pretty well now then.

fskc, that's awesome, Found one for 1994 terrano, it's gotta be the same. I was looking at aftermarket ones actually. It's 350CAD for oem, that might be worth it.