5523Pathfinder

It can as it may cause a leak in the Evap system if the corrosion get really bad. But, you may have other issues. Get it checked asap!

#1 cylinder in all of our rigs that have a V6, is the right front plug(when sitting in the drivers seat). Its also the closest plug to you when leaning over the front of your truck. Here is a little more help...

here is this if it helps.....

Unless the distributor shaft snapped in two, nope. Now the bad news, you probably bent some valves. Remove the upper timing cover and verify the belt has let go. You can try and put a belt on it then do a compression test. This will tell you if vavles are bent. Only one time in my life have I seen one of our motors break a belt and survive.

Yeah, 4lo is your friend. I do most trials and hilclimbs in 2nd gear, 4lo engauged. If I really get stuck, pop her down into first. On the beach I usually just use 4hi unless max traction is needed. Of course, I also have a locker and Warn hubs...

I priced out what it would be to repair it at a local speedo repair facility, and its almost the same as buying a new one. Its all part of the speedo itself.

Well, being we only run rear ABS in the older WD21's, there is no sensor for the front wheels. The sensor only watches the rear end and watched for excessive spin, panic braking, ect, when not in 4wd. Othwise, yes thats pretty much how abs work.

Im sure your parts guy is assuming you are putting on new exhaust manifolds. The other 6 studs would be for the flanges. They are almost impossible to remove without damaging. Yep, the turbo studs are what you are using to replace your exsiting/broken studs. Here you can see where the studs go(circled in red). Even gives you torque spec, if you like... Here is where your flange studs go, if you use new manifolds....

The sensor on the rear diff is a shaft speed sensor. This is supplied to the ABS control unit and will activate your Rear ABS. Our trucks do not have 4 Wheel ABS(well, the newer ones do). anyway, if you cant swap the sensor over, then either you will have to live with no ABS, or go get a LSD with ABS.

The last time I priced everything out for a rebuild, it was somewhere in the $700 range, just for the parts. I picked up a good used trans for $350 from a member on here who was local to me. Do some hunting on CL or your local Junkyards. Remember, you may want to replace the clutch while you are in there, as well as the rear main seal. It will cost a few more bucks, but its good insurance.

The alternator uses a internal voltage reguator. I would removed the alternator and take it down to your local Parts store and see if they can test it for you. Usually thats free. Double check all your connections on the Alt as well as your battery and the ground on the engine.

Ive done a few of the conversions. The problem is, R134a sucks in comparision to R12, real R12, no knockoffs. Now some members here have had decent luck with a few R12 replacements. If all the mode doors work, I would have it inspected for leaks. Some of the newer refridgerants have a leak detection dye in it and you can use a blacklight or UV light(wear eye protection) to spot the leaks.

Yep, mine bit the dust due to the wrong fluid. The PO had it service and put the wrong fluid in. I found this went I went to service it about 6 months after I bought it. I refilled it with GL-5 temporarialy, and bought Royal Purple fluid. They said that It would be fine as their fluid is both GL-5 and GL-4 compatible. The noise really got started about 2 years ago. I know what was wrong and hoped the RP fluid would help, but it didnt. You can see what I found in my trans by going here.... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry334422 See post 17. It was a mess. From what I have found out is that the friction modifier that the GL-5 uses, attacks the soft metal parts that are in our transmissions. The GL-4 doesnt have the modifier in it. I did not reuse RP fluid. I installed Redline MT90 and the new trans is as quiet as the day it rolled of the showroom floor.

Here is a diagram of the air flow. What you might want to do is to see if your a/c lines are hot or cold. They should never be too hot to touch for a moment and should not be so cold that icicles form. If you are seeing bubbles in the sight glass, you may have a leak somewhere.

Just found this on Alldata..... If you replace any of the above components, the system will enter the long tamper mode. If the system enters the long tamper mode, ensure that the system completes a long tamper mode cycle. During the long tamper mode cycle, the THEFT indicator will flash for the full 10 minutes . The instrument cluster and the PCM require the full 10 minutes in order to complete the learn cycle. Ensure that the ignition switch remains in RUN until the indicator stops flashing. If you turn the ignition switch before the indicator stops flashing, repeat the long tamper cycle from the beginning. Im looking for more.... Heres more..... DO NOT REPLACE ANY COMPONENTS. Re-synchronization must be performed if the following conditions exist: The batteries of the keyless entry transmitter have been replaced. A keyless entry transmitter is malfunctioning. If all of the transmitter buttons fail to function check the battery and transmitter using tester J 43241. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 83-90-12. If the transmitter passes the test program the RKE system following the procedures in the Keyless Entry sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual. Remember when programming the system, all transmitters for the vehicle must be present for the programming to be successful. On many 2006 vehicle lines RKE transmitter commands can be viewed using a scan tool (under RCDLR Data Displays). If the transmitter fails the test with the tester J 43241 replace the batteries and retest the transmitter using the tester J 43241. If the transmitter still fails the test replace the transmitter.

Oh yeah, remember it like yesterday....

Hey, Pezzy got a job!!!! Appointed by a guy in Oregon, by in owner in Washington, that cant be found! Dont steal all our money like the banks have! oh wait.....you did discuss a new pay rate right?

I wont lie, Ive had one for refreshment out on the trail. Brothers truck broke and the rest of us sat around shootin the she-it while we waited for the parts run and repair. One guy brought a case. Though, Ive never drank a bunch then went out wheelin. Well, Ive never drank anything then went wheelin'. I try save those for when I get home and have a empty stomach.

I would take a test light or a DVOM and check for power at pn #15 on the contol unit. If you have power there, its ok. If not, you may need to trace the harness to find a fuse. That fuse may be under the dash tied up into the harness.

Has it been rainy there latley? Have you washed your rig recently? I remember having a issue similar to this and found water in the door lock actuator connector, inside of the door. You could remove the door panel and watershield, then follow the harness to the actuator. Remove the connector and see if its wet or has corrosion (greenish white color) in the connector and the actuator. Clean it if you can and get some dielectric grease to seal the connector.

I had auto hub in my 95 that I swapped out for a set of Warn manual hubs. I would have to say that it is nice to know the hubs are engauged on the trail at all times. I was on a trail before I did the swap, and was still in 2wd. Most of it was easy, but then I needed to get over a burm and couldnt seem to get enout traction. I put it in 4wd and still wouldnt grab. The auto hubs need to be rolled forward before they will engauge. I had to roll backward then forward to get them to engauge. When they finally engauged, they did so with a loud bang! Now, I guess the only drawback to the manual hubs is that you have to get out and lock them in ahead of time. Still, some of the best money I spent on my rig.

Eliminate the key fob my removing the battery. IF you are not using it anyway, you should not see the windows go down again. The fob may be failing and sending out a signal and is lowering the windows.

yeah, thats Hoohaa!

From what I have heard, is that the Calmini steering system is good, but expensive. You may want to look into a HooHa centerlink. He has a website, but I cant remember what it is at the moment. Much cheaper though in price. Still, I think the idler arm brace is a must.