5523Pathfinder

Yes, the chipped key is only for starting. Newer vehicles that Nissan/Infiniti make, have what is called a intelligent key. This key left in the vehicle and all you have to do is push a button on the ouside handle to get in. the key doesnt need to leave your pocket though. With just a chipped key, a signal is sent out near the ignition switch to pick up the key. It has a very small radius, but a key can be placed near it(not necessarally in it) and the car can be started with a aftermarket auto starter. If you leave the key in the car, you can use the key fob to open the doors. If you lock your keys inside, yes, you can use another programmed fob to open the doors. What I was stating previously is that I do not like having the key left in the vehicle near the ignition, as it makes it muc eaiser for someone to steal. But its your rig, not mine.

The key has a small microchip inside. It has to be programmed and be recognized by the vehicle everytime the key is put into the ignition. The system has a rolling code function, much like your garage door opener to prevent theft. Yes, a Nissan scan tool needs to be hooked up and the system acessed. There are several codes used to program the key. Some are on the car, others are not. Plus, when cutting a key, they should ask you for identification to prove you are the owner of the vehicle. otherwise, someone could go in with your VIN and get a key cut. Open up your rig and take what they want. They wont be able to steal it unless they have a few minutes and know thier way around they system. Hows that for ya?

The problem with having a chipped key in the vehicle, is that the vehicle always thinks its time to start. Anyone could come along and just shove a screwdriver into your ignition and turn it. The vehicle sees the key and thinks all is well. I would either park in a garage, get a block heater, or just tough it out.

Yep, its a engine ground. It attached to the exhaust manifold heat shield. If it doesnt seem to reach, it may have been moved or rerouted. I imagin the bolt you are missing probablyheld it in place.

Uniden

You can pull the starter and used a larger screwdriver to hold the flywheel/flexplate. If you have and manual, put it in gear, block the wheels and try torquing as needed. You could also get a strap wrench(availible at most tool suppliers) and a buddy and hold the crank. The best way is air obviously, but if you dont have it, get creative. Just be careful.

Not reving past 2000 RPM means its in failsafe. This could be from several issues. Even though your check engine light is not on, perform the code check in the how to section and see if any codes are present. Let us know what you find.

Heres mine mounted in the in center console..... $12 external speaker.. Antenna mounting... Nice and hidden, which is what i wanted. I can just pull the mic out and use it when I have to.

Im assuming it ran before you changed the belt? Sounds like you missed something. You may want to remove the covers and check the belt timing marks to see if they are right. If they are too far off, you may have damged something. Did you do anything else besides change the belt? You may want to start a thread in the Garage section for more help.

Here ya go...

Sounds like ether a switch or a fan speed resistor. See the cleaning your heater box in the How to section. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7466

I didnt see it, but I may have missed it, but did anyone ask what your timing is set at? If you just have the motor freshend up, your timing could be off. Also, check for any vacuum leaks. Both could throw your mileage off.

I would recommend charging your battery while replacing your alternator. If the battery is low, the voltage regulator has to work overtime and will go out fast. Have the battery tested and charged.

Use the kitty litter, with one little tweak. Put in on the spot you want to clean, get a chunk of 2x4, put the 2x4 on the kittle litter, step on the 2x4 and grind the litter into the spot for a few seconds. Clean up with a broom.

There is a TSB concerning some of these codes. NTB99-004b. Says it may be a poor ground connection. A new ground sub harness is recommended to be installed. Sub harness- 24075-0W060 Wiring clip- 01552-00401KK Hex Bolt- 08146-8121G

If you could take a picture and post it, that would make it easier to say what needs to be replaced. But, the gear is attached to the camshaft. If it broke, you may of made a large mess. Right away, it sounds like a camshaft, and probably valves. But, if the valves hit the pistions, then possibly more. Maybe a new motor. Take a pic and lets go from there.

You can test the cable by disconnecting it from the trans, connect one end to a drill, and give 'er a spin. You dont need to go very fast at all to verify operation. As far as the gear goes, pull the sensor from the Tcase and inspect it. Make sure to look inside at the gear. Ive seen those flatten out and casue issues.

The seats shouldnt be too much a problem. If they are heated, then you may have a touch of wiring to do. The dash on the other hand, has been done. I believe you will need to swap harnesses, maybe a few braces and HVAC components.

Wont clear the hubs. You can have them machined but you will loose the centercap. I learned all of this when I got my QX56 rims for my hardbody. It would fit a 2wd with less machining, but not a 4wd.

So the higher you go, the camber goes positive(top of the tire goes out)?

Ok, did you install new torsion bars? If you did, when you took the old ones out, you need to have the suspension unloaded, and the adjusters at full droop. As ;you tighten, you get your lift. I got this wrong the first time by 2 teeth on the torsion bars. I figured this out as I was just hammering on the adjuster bolts. I reindexed them and everything got much easier. Noticed I went too high, then lowered the bars a touch. BAM, got the alignment within spec, cambered in a bit, but Im comfortable with it. If your cant adjust your bars correctly, you will have all kinds of issues with getting the suspension set up correctly.

Im cambered in with mine. I'm off my lower bump stops about 1 inch. When the front suspension compresses, the top of the tire cambers out then comes back. Thats why I thoght maybe you got the torsion bars misindexed.

So you put in new torsion bars? I think you need to reindex them if thats the case. That will give you the lift and bring your camber in.

Can you take a video of it? Where is the most of the noise coming from?

Yes, you should be able to push on it and make the engine stumble. It wont be really easy to push in, but not hard either. If yours is that hard, disconnect the vacuum hose, then try and push on it. Its possilbe you have the valve sticking inside. You can remove it and try and cleaning it, but it may not help.